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Discussion Starter #21
I am not sure about a 67' 68-69 had a specific style that differs from earlier or later. The construction of mine was medium density foam molded over a metal frame and covered with vinyl. The vinyl covering uses a thermal vacuum process which I avoided by using stitching for the curvy areas. The wood is just a veneer.

The step nose dashes may use a similar construction but I think the wood is a special type of vinyl. I'm sure there are other posts here covering it in detail.
 

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Topical for me too, at the moment - I too have a 1600 GTV with the pressed-fibre/cardboard 'chassis', faced with the stick-on wood grained vinyl. A clumsy, oversize radio cut-out , peeling glovebox lid, plus a few cracks and general faded appearance means I have to do something with it.

I have seen Franjo's spectacular results with recovering one of these with the original-style wood grain vinyl, so provided you are an artisan, it is possible to repair to original spec yourself.

I have also seen fibreglass and resin used to reinforce the back of the dash with success, it's just the front which requires skill and patience. I missed that class.

Others have reverted to a painted finish, mirroring the earlier GT speckled grey finish. Some look good, others less so, but it is a technique which requires skills most of us can muster.

Just this morning, I saw a1600 GTV with a dash which had been re-faced in black vinyl. It was an excellent job, and really looked quite good, with the chrome trim (unique to the 1600 GTV) really standing out, plus a lumpy, grained finish similar to the GT. Made me go 'Hmmm...'.

With the original, the expertise seems to lie in (very) carefully peeling off, then replacing the wood grain vinyl over the tortuous curves. I have not seen any mention of repairing the wood grain vinyl without total replacement, but will watch answers to your question with interest for anything which suggests success can be achieved here.

Hydrographic transfer surfacing looks interesting tho. With DIY packs available, I suspect prices will come down. Of course, that requires dipping the cardboard dash into water. What could possibly go wrong?
 

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I am sourcing a laminate to get the original wood grain look back on the front. hoping a good adhesive and a heat gun will fill the bill. Should resin alone be sufficient to stiffen the pressed board or matting required as well?
My radio cutout is trashed and glove box are trashed as well, otherwise everything is there to be worked with.
Repair of Wood grain laminate seem hopeless and bound to further deterioration anyway
 

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If you have cracking or other damage, some matting will of course assist.

Having tried this before, do (stick) the vinyl in stages. That is, let the larger front (flatter) sections cure before attempting the gauge areas. I tried it all at once, and as I applied heat to the gauge areas, the vinyl shrank away from the concave face.

Hopefully, others will have advice too.
 

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Ok guys, Here's the latest update on 66 GTV cardboard dashboard restoration.
Multiple coats of resin, sanding and shrink wrapping dinoc and here's the state of restoration attached. Glove box is also swiss cheese so lots of building up and sanding to be done there. Most complicated project I've done in 30 years!
 

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Ok guys, Here's the latest update on 66 GTV cardboard dashboard restoration.
Multiple coats of resin, sanding and shrink wrapping dinoc and here's the state of restoration attached. Glove box is also swiss cheese so lots of building up and sanding to be done there. Most complicated project I've done in 30 years!
Wow!!! Fabulous work.

Can you share w/us how you removed the metal circling that surrounds the dashboard lower edge of the instruments locations/bulge? I.e. the metal cirgling on whih the external crown of the instument staks on and on which the backside retention stabs press/push?

Would really be helpfull as I want to do the same ... one day... but have no clue of how to remove these metalic rings/circlings.

KR

Thomas L.
 

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Great result - nicely done.
I had some trouble with adhesion (see post 24, above), so I would also appreciate understanding how you achieved your great result, particularly heating/stretching into the gauge recesses without disturbing material on the face.
 

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Rings are crimped to cardboard cutouts. Imperative that you remove tension of crimp (from back ) without disturbing the fiberboard. Small mortice to spread and plyers to hold secure is sufficient.
Once entire ring is relieved, retract one end of ring to center without bending. you can then insert needlenose plyer in end of ring and gently remove/rotate from cutout without distorting cutout or ring.
 

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Rings are crimped to cardboard cutouts. Imperative that you remove tension of crimp (from back ) without disturbing the fiberboard. Small mortice to spread and plyers to hold secure is sufficient.
Once entire ring is relieved, retract one end of ring to center without bending. you can then insert needlenose plyer in end of ring and gently remove/rotate from cutout without distorting cutout or ring.
Ha!! TFB3!!"Thanks this is usefull information but since my english is not so great I want to make sure to correctly undestand what you wrote .

From what I understood.... The backside of the ring is secured by small mortices, which need to be folded back/pried off to relieve their grip from the cardboard edge... right?

Do you by any chance would be kind enough to describe what you used to "Fold back" these mortices, a small flat screwdriver?

Would someone have a detail picture of the Backside of these rings?

Thanks in advance a kind regards,

Thomas
 

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Hoping someone can help. I repairing some minor cracks to the front of my dash and nub damage, the nubs are below the glove box door ( left especially) has been damaged, I've adjusted the door several times but it still hits the left one and wont open cleanly to sit on the nubs (which is what I assume they were made for)
 

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Was your glove box that goes behind the glove box door in good shape ? I am looking for a good box since mine is in pieces. any ideas?
 

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TFB3: Original dash from a US 71 GTV, the top is in excellent shape, the GTV dash does have foam below the vinyl. (pic's in my resto thread)

pickeljr: Yes I have the glove box liner (thx for the clarification TFB3 :)) and it's in excellent condition too, I'm sure I'll touch it up with some flocking once the resto is complete. I think the glove box liners are as rare as hen's teeth!

Anyone have any thoughts on the nub issue? Thank you
 

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glove box liners are basically unobtanium. I have toyed with moulding an extra one I have but not sure what to make it out of.
anybody have any pressboard experience? ?
 
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