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Discussion Starter #1
Hello fellow Alfisi,

I bought this car 12 years ago (out of NYC via this BB), and just sat on it for the first 8 years. During those years I slowly collected the missing pieces to finish the restoration, buying NOS parts when I could and it made sense. Those 8 years were filled with distractions, restoring another GTV (my race car, "1968 GTV race car build" on the BB) and lots of racing. The last few years have been a bit topsy turvey in my line of work (oil and gas) and I had been doing less racing, so it afforded me more time to do the restoration on the '67GTV. The restoration is almost complete, so it seemed like a good time to share some photos from the job. Bad news, I lost a hard drive 3 years ago and because it was a fusion drive and apple wiped the flash portion, it was un recoverable, so I'm missing most of my photos of doing the rocker panels and floors and engine rebuild. I still have over 1,000 photos and I'll pick out some choice photos to share.
I hope everyone enjoys.

Thanks
Mark

Day I picked it up, temporarily stored at my Dad's farm NE of Toronto....needed to wait until the weather was worse to haul it out West.
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See...., Alberta is really nice.
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Home to Calgary, Dec 31st 2008.
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One of the places it was stashed while waiting... only 2 winters there. Wife didn't mind having it under the deck.
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Finally some attention. 3 GTVs in a 2 car garage, snug.
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Discussion Starter #2
I have photos of most stuff as I took it apart (didn't lose any of those), but no one needs to see 50 photos of a wiring harness.
here is an interesting photo show how someone in the factor hand painted some areas to black them out. That Tach got replaced with a NOS one.
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I might have to take the comment about losing the engine and transmission rebuild photos;
I know people say restore the engine last, but I believe in doing it first.
The car had a 1750 in it when I bought it, but the seller had kept the original 1600. It was pulled due to a blow head gasket.
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Bottom End
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I'll go a little bit out of chronological order to keep the flow. I rebuilt the gearbox and Burman box while the engine was at the machine shop.
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Full balanced bottom end (better than factory), new oil pump
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Custom built Head stand.
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Discussion Starter #3
always exciting/satisfying putting the head down on a rebuild.
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gotta watch out for those helpers
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Steering Box Rebuild- the one that came with the car was cracked. It took a bit of looking to find one that matched the car with that extra lug on the bottom of the casting. I think I've rebuilt 5 Burman boxes in total now.
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Discussion Starter #4
Transmission rebuild photos are spotty, I did end up changing 1st, 2nd and 3 got rings, all new synchros and seal, pretty straight forward. Used a 2-5 dog ring on 1st gear to allow the upshift into 1st. Found that trick on the BB, makes going into 1st from a stop much nicer.
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You might notice I'm big on re-plating fasteners, there is a very reasonable shop in Calgary, Silver Zinc, Black Zinc. $40-60 for half a shoe box...its cheaper than buying new fasteners and lots of pieces are too unique.
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Two distributors to choose from...restore the one that matches the car.
Both Bosch JF4
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Hi Mark,
Some times worn out parts on cars are replaced with non original parts. Years later the non original parts are assumed to be 'original'. The last owner goes off and replaces the non original part with other non original parts, thus an endless circle of miss information.
The GTV 1600 Veloce has a red line on their taco ~ 5,700 rpm. The NOS tacho you have used is for a 1300 GTJ as they have a red line at 6200 rpm.
Like you I will just have to use a 1300 GTJ tacho on my 1966 GTV out of NYC, until I find one for a GTV 1600 Veloce.
Regards Steve
 

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Pete
 

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Well, my (not infallible) memory tells me 6200rpm was always the quoted max, even though there weren’t any redlines on the tacho until the 1600 GTV. I still remember the test drivers commenting on it.
Max power Developed at 6000, redline 6200.
With the 1750s max power was at 5500, redline (again) a couple of hundred rpm higher.
2000 engines similar.
The higher 1600 redline also fits with the extra advance the 1300/1600 distributors delivered.
So...tho I take your point about substituted parts creating confusion, Steve, my dollar says the tacho in the pic is correct for the car. Here comes another one, from my March 67 GTV.
 

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Thank you for correcting me Ranz and PSK. I must have got confused with the 1750.
So the redline is 6200 for both the GTJ 1300 and GT Veloce 1600.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I do appreciate the commentary about the NOS tach I used. However no one has seen what I used yet.

More progress through pictures. Into the body work...this is where I'm missing a bunch of photos
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Onto the Rotisserie
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Now moved into my new house- garage. Oversized triple garage, I build a booth for doing dirty work and base paints.
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I did sand blast (carefully) the underside, and engine bay. All the outer panels where stripped using paint stripper and sanding.
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Discussion Starter #14
More progress; I did my best to save as much of the original floor as possible, reproduction stampings are not as crisp and if the metal is good I try to leave it there.
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Now I'm going to share something a bit more insane. the drivers door had been over opened (like many GTVs) and I wanted to preserve as much as possible for a few reasons. Truly good doors are nearly impossible to find, the bottom of this door was in good shape and I had a donor door that had damage near the handle. To understand how I spliced the two door frames and skins together, you have to follow the use of two aluminum templates with 1/8" holes and clicos to get the scribe line perfect. The end result couldn't have been better. The door fit with zero edge triming necessary to get correct door gaps.
Enjoy.
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Important to remember which side of the scribe line to cut on.
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Discussion Starter #15
Cleco holes crossed both halves before the cut, now the template holds the two halves together.
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Didn't even have to open the hem on the donor shin, slipped off, no rust inside.
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filled in speaker holes with more material from donor doors.
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Very clever! Oh to have rust free donor parts ...

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Free from Rust.
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when sanding, I would mask off holes to keep crap from getting back in.
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Lots of time spent chasing out rust where flat pieces were lapped onto each other. Weld through primer used.
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Test fitting seat bolt holes.
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Discussion Starter #18
I made a hammer form for this piece when I restored my '68 GTV. Now this piece is available with the usually suppliers.
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Discussion Starter #20
Onto the front end, front valence and lower rad support had the standard corrosion.
I made a point of keeping the crosses on the front...because once again, reproduction panels are not crisp enough.
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I'm trying to get every little curve and detail as correct as possible. Takes time, but its very satisfying.
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Also doing what I can to keep the rust away for good. Etch prime, black top coat then weld thru primer.
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