Yes to all the above except the RTV on the outer circumference of the seals. Never have done that before on any of the other engines I have done, so we will see. Thanks for the input.
My only leak so far appears to be coolant, seeping from the 'T' hose connector by the firewall for the heater. The CA silicone hoses seem a little too large both in I.D. and O.D. I'll probably drain the coolant and replace them with stock rubber hoses.
To prevent oil leaks, I think it is most important to seal the threads on the crankshaft for the pulley nut and replace the cigarette seals with RTV. I am cleaning up a spare 1600 '502' engine. The main pulley/timing cover was caked with dirt and oil and the rear main seal is a hazmat area. RTV on the outer circumference of the seals seemed like overkill but who am I to argue with a very experienced engine builder; a Ga Tech graduate that owned a race shop for 30 years and built many engines for AutoDelta. I'm just sharing what he taught me...
Do not put rtv on the seals. The seal material is the sealing agent and shouldn't need more. My experience has been that the seal becomes compromised and actually has a greater chance of coming out. Good luck
As usual, thanks for the comments. I have several other Italian and German cars, but this is my first Alfa and the assistance I have received from this forum is simply great. I have a Ferrari and older Lambo both with Webers and Bendix pumps that dead head at the carbs(no return). I installed pressure regulators and set it to 3 PSI. Works great and that is what got me thinking I should do the same on the Duetto as I already have the bowl/filter regulator installed and happen to have a brand new Bendix pump.
However, I have been trying to keep the car all original just because (I don't plan on showing it at judged concours events). This is the first car with a mechanical fuel pump I have had since the late 70,s. If I leave the car set for a few weeks, what length of cranking time should I expect to fill the carb bowls.
Thanks in advance.
I've never tried that, but sure, I can't see why it wouldn't work. In fact, you could "hollow out" the mechanical pump, just leaving it there for show while the electric pump did the actual work. Simply removing the rod that drives the mechanical pump would render it passive.Someone on the BB should know for sure, but I have heard of running the mechanical fuel pump up front and the electric pump in the back. That way you would have the look of the stock setup with the benefit of the electric pump also.