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Discussion Starter #21
Bought in 1979,
Wrecked in ~1982,
Parked in ~1985,
Brought out of storage in ~1994,
Completed teardown in 1999,
Welded together in 2017,
and now completely blasted inside and underside (except for the a-pillars. I left those with the original paint.)...
 

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What Osso said, mine went off last month to start a very similar journey after I decided it was way past my skill levels.

Your pics will undoubtly help my restorer !
Thanks :)
 

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I've got a question. How did you make sure that the new front clip was correctly aligned? I know there are many hard points that determine the location with the firewall but the front suspension points are part of that front clip. Just the slightest misalignment of a few mm at the firewall might translate into a big difference in the location of the suspension pick up points in relation to the tub and rear axle.
 

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I've got a question. How did you make sure that the new front clip was correctly aligned? I know there are many hard points that determine the location with the firewall but the front suspension points are part of that front clip. Just the slightest misalignment of a few mm at the firewall might translate into a big difference in the location of the suspension pick up points in relation to the tub and rear axle.
:yes: interesting question.
 

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AND, I want to thank you, for your usefull thread, with all these ...rare fotos !

It is very difficult to find so analized anatomy of a duetto.
I try to restore myshelf, my 66duetto, and I always take a look of your thread,
for all these secret places of the car!

THANK YOU AGAIN, FOR YOUR FOTOS ! :smile2:
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
I've got a question. How did you make sure that the new front clip was correctly aligned? I know there are many hard points that determine the location with the firewall but the front suspension points are part of that front clip. Just the slightest misalignment of a few mm at the firewall might translate into a big difference in the location of the suspension pick up points in relation to the tub and rear axle.
:yes: interesting question.

I had a reference drawing that I could use to check the alignment. The diagonal measurements were the most useful.

The advice from the restoration shop was: "the sheetmetal will tell you if there's a problem".

It was actually very straightforward. The inner fender's sheetmetal fit tightly against the firewall.
I took measurements from the firewall diagonally to the mounting points for the hood (on the upper radiator crossmember) and diagonally across the bottom.

Then, I drilled holes and held it together with clecos. One-by-one, I then removed each cleco and welded it's hole untill all holes were welded.

There's lots more pictures if anyone is interested in any detail that wasn't shown in my previous posts.
Plus, she's still naked and available for more photos. (the car).
 

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I'd love access to your other images, measurements etc. My restorer is about to undertake a very similar rebuild on my '66 Duetto. We're replacing all sills also...

Craig
 

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To get the best protection from corrosion a chromated epoxy primer like Glasurit 801- 703 will give the best protection. It must be painted directly on the bare metal.
Aloha,
Mark

"Better Living Thru Chemistry"
 

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Jeff, I've not seen anyone apply paint to these areas before the fenders and nose panels are welded on to the car. How will all of the spot welds be rust proofed? And, what will they do to those areas where the paint is burned from the spot welding? I like the idea of getting a nice thick coat of paint in these areas. I'm just wondering how they will handle this.

That first bit of paint has got to be pretty exciting. Congratulations!
 
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