i did an ENTIRE dodge truck frame(74 ramcharger) in rustolium hammerite and after 1 year of sitting it looked still pretty good...after the second year anywhere that the sun sees it daily it has faded and chalked up....the underbody of the truck i hit with high gloss rustolium black after primeing then coated all but the wheel wells with rubberized bed liner...then recoated the wheelwells with high gloss black...the wheel wells after 4 years are starting to show the lack of quality paint....mind you the truck has NOT been driven but been slowly beening painted coated and assembled as i find the parts i want(took me 15 years to find the style of tail gate i wanted in good enuf condidtion to repair)....
fascinating reading! But what is the Mineral Spirits he keeps recommending to use as a thinner? In Aussie we have Mineral Turps and Methylated Spirits. Which one is he talking about and what is this paint called in Aussie?
We plan to use a roll on Bedliner kit, but there is an area in the rear corner that needs a small patch welding in, so we will do that first. I plan to use my Rotisserie to lift the bed off, so we can get in and paint the areas we cant reach.
You know, black is one of the easiest paints to get wrong, and the hardest to maintain, so expectations are low. That said, and easy for me to ask, why not apply two clear coats? Stage-sand the first to hit the high spots and soften the edges, then go with a second final clear. Your paint might not last longer per se, but I understand clear coats are much harder when cured than a typical auto-parts store paint. You can then just wax a few layers and have a super-easy truck to keep shiny with just a hose down. It might even resist the ravages of off-road use. On the other hand, nothing worse than the sun shining off the hood into your eyes when concentrating on the corner of the truck!