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Trying to locate a manufacturer for a tonneau for a 2600. Seems available for the 2000 Touring but not the 2600. Figure it may have to be custom but may need a pattern. Thanks for any assistance/advice.

Dennis
 

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I bought a tonneau for my 102-2000 from World Upholstery. It took 3 tries before they got me one that would fit. The first was significantly too long, and may well have been made from a pattern for the 106. You might call them, as they advertised the returned unit on Ebay, but I have no idea if it was purchased or not. You could probably buy it for a couple of hundred, whereas my 102 unit was quite a bit more. I'm happy with the one that finally fit, and can't complain about their willingness to re-do things until it was right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I bought a tonneau for my 102-2000 from World Upholstery. It took 3 tries before they got me one that would fit. The first was significantly too long, and may well have been made from a pattern for the 106. You might call them, as they advertised the returned unit on Ebay, but I have no idea if it was purchased or not. You could probably buy it for a couple of hundred, whereas my 102 unit was quite a bit more. I'm happy with the one that finally fit, and can't complain about their willingness to re-do things until it was right.
Thanks so much. Actually have been in touch with them. They showed one for the 106 last fall on their site and then it disappeared. Was told then that they were looking for a pattern. It reappeared a few weeks ago but apparently the IT guy accidentally re-posted, but they're still looking for a pattern. I thought one for a 102 might work but sounds like no.
 

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I don't know the specific details of the ****pit differences between 102 and 106. The first tonneau they sent was substantially too long for my 102, and the "ears" at the front corners were quite a bit longer than the ones used on my 102. I might guess that these longer ears would fit around the vent windows for a 106.

Perhaps they sold it on Ebay, but they were advertising it as a 102 unit "customer return" rather than stating it was because it did not fit the 102.

Good luck,
 

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does anyone have photos showing a tonneau on a 2600, particularly how it's fastened from the doors forward around the dash and steering wheel?

thanks
David
 

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106 tonnieau?

Here are some pics I took of the WULPH tonneau compared to my original 102 tonneau. Of particular interest is the extra length and longer ears. You can get some idea of how the tonneau is fastened to the car as well, as indicated by the snaps on the original 102 tonneau. It's not elegant, using the original "lift-a-dot" fasteners at the back, twist-loc fasteners along the side, and a mixture of twist-loc and plant pin-snap fasteners at the front.
 

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does it just lay over the dash or do fasteners (studs)have to be installed into the dash?
thanks
David
 

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The ones I've seen require studs in the dash as well as on both doors. These look rather ugly without the tonneau cover in place.
 

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Mine has two snap-studs on either side of the centrally-mounted mirror, another snap-stud over the glove box, and twist-locs just inside of the windshield posts. I get confused over which is "common sense" and "Tenax" so have tried to describe them by their function. I believe the "lift-a-dot" fasteners are also known as "Tenax". These are at the rear of my ****pit and also hold down the convertible top boot cover.

If you look at my old tonneau in the bottom picture above you can see the receptacles for the right-hand side fasteners. The round receptacles take little round pointed studs that go through a single hole drilled in the dash and are held there by a nut on the reverse side. The oval receptacles accept the twist-loc fasteners (I think they are the "common sense" type). These attach to the dash with two small machine screws also backed up by small nuts. My dash was already drilled, so I just replaced what was intended. If you intend to install a new tonneau for the first time it would be MUCH easier with the windshield not installed so you could get good access with a drill. I'm sure it would be possible with the windshield installed, but would require much more care to get access and to avoid having a drill go skating across the dash.

When installing the receptacles into the new tonneau cover one fits it at the front first and work rearward, ensuring that it is perfectly even before you install the first receptacle. Typically the first receptacles would be the two on either side of the mirror, although I guess the later 2600 does not use the central mirror.

Having said all that, it is entirely possible that tonneaus fit to the 2600 used a different fastener scheme than a 1959 2000.

I can understand why one might think the naked studs are ugly, but I find them to completely acceptable and appropriate to the era of these cars. I can quickly toss on the tonneau when I arrive somewhere much more easily than erecting the convertible top, and the thought of sun-aging all this leather encourages me to do so.
 

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I talked to World Uphostery...they are unable to to tonneaus for either 2000 or 2600 because they have no pattern.

until someone can lend them one as a master I guess we're going to have to rely on completely custom made tonneaus through a local shop ($$$$)
 

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Interesting. WULPH did my tonneau within the last 4 months. They THOUGHT they had a pattern, and it produced the tonneau in my pictures above. I sent them my old tonneau, which had shrunk slightly, so the second one was too small. With some guidance from my installer, the 3rd one fit OK.

I'm guessing the problem is not so much that they don't have a pattern, as they are still smarting from their experience with my car. I have my old tonneau (at least I think they sent it back), and someone could lay it on top of their car to see if it fits. I doubt it will fit a 2600, however, due to vent windows and what I believe is a slightly longer passenger compartment. You might start by measuring from the base of the windshield right in the middle to the rear edge of passenger compartment. Of course, the rear edge is actually part of the top storage bay, but hopefully you get what I'm saying. I can then measure my 102 for comparison.

Do they still have the first tonneau they made for me? I suspect it would be a great item for them to send out for you to use as a confirmation pattern. If they sold it to a 102 owner, I haven't heard about it.
 

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I have one in my 2600 spider, it is one of the best things I have done for the car, it is really the best way to store it if you use it frequently.

I bought one a long time ago from someone and used that one for a pattern. As Ruedi says, it needs studs, but I only have studs in the dash, none on the doors. What I sue in front is lift-the-dot type studs that are not very big.

I believe I still have the old one that I used as a pattern, I will certainly lend it out, all I ask is that whoever wants it pays for shipping both ways (I want it back, it fit better than the new one and at some point I might make another one).

Here's a couple of pictures of the old tonneau, you can see some of the fittings, they is the only I have, if anyone wants more, let me know.

Easier to email or pm me

[email protected]
 

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Great info guys and i would be very intertsed in buying one for my 2600 once they have the pattern ?

I'll keep following this post .

Also, anybody know where to find that "middle" chrome catch on the trunk above ?


Many Thanks

Andy
 

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Just as an update, I will be taking more pictures of the new tonneau on my car later this week, and I Dennis White will be sending my old tonneau to World Upholstery for them to make a pattern. Once that is done I guess he will post the appropriate information
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Just as an update, I will be taking more pictures of the new tonneau on my car later this week, and I Dennis White will be sending my old tonneau to World Upholstery for them to make a pattern. Once that is done I guess he will post the appropriate information
Henry is being kind enough to allow the old tonneau to be used as the pattern, and is going to the trouble of shipping it to me here in LA. I'll be coordinating this with World upon receipt of it and will post throughout the process, including the shipping, receipt by World, and manufacture of the pattern. Based on my conversations with World, depending on the material, I estimate the cost between $500 and $800. Stay tuned if interested.

Dennis
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Recieved the tonneau today from Henry and just awaiting additional advice from him before forwarding to World.

Dennis
 

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Dennis:

do you have a 2600? If so, what is your dash made from? I had mine recovered a couple of years ago and found it was a formed urethane-foam type.

My current concern is how to fasten the snap studs securely enough so they don't pull out given the tension of a snug tonneau.

I'm curious about your situation and plans.
David
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
does it just lay over the dash or do fasteners (studs)have to be installed into the dash?
thanks
David
Looking at the tonneau Henry has now provided, it doesn't have the "ears" or "fingers" shown in the picture from Don Peterson. I'm not sure how those work near the vent windows. It has 3 button snap fasteners at the right front (passenger side), 1 at the left front (driver), and 1 at each vent window. There is the slit opening for the steering wheel, and I do believe if you use the tonneau just to protect the ****pit (my plan), then you probably don't need to install the front and vent fasteners; I think you can zip it up at the middle and use the steering wheel opening to hold it at the front. Maybe not great looking, but functional and without fasteners. If you're going to use it in the classic style, driving with the passenger side covered, then you'll have to install the fasteners at the front.

Dennis
 

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Looking at the tonneau Henry has now provided, it doesn't have the "ears" or "fingers" shown in the picture from Don Peterson. I'm not sure how those work near the vent windows. It has 3 button snap fasteners at the right front (passenger side), 1 at the left front (driver), and 1 at each vent window. There is the slit opening for the steering wheel, and I do believe if you use the tonneau just to protect the ****pit (my plan), then you probably don't need to install the front and vent fasteners; I think you can zip it up at the middle and use the steering wheel opening to hold it at the front. Maybe not great looking, but functional and without fasteners. If you're going to use it in the classic style, driving with the passenger side covered, then you'll have to install the fasteners at the front.

Dennis
Dennis, most of the comments I will be sending you address some of your concerns. The steering wheel opening is missing the hood (which I couldn't find) so that the wheel is protected.

When I purchased the one I sent you, it had all the fasteners in place, but I decided not to use all of them, so that I installed no fasteners at the doors, and what I have is one fastener (lift the dot) of the left side of the steering wheel, then the steering wheel hood that fits very tight, and then 3 more fasteners on the right side of the dash (also lift the dot; these work well because the studs are very small), but with my new cover I am only using 2 of these. Again I hope to post pictures and a better explanation later this week.

I have my car in a covered garage, and the only thing I leave on the car is the tonneau, it protects the ****pit really well. When I want to drive the car (and am riding alone), I just unsnap the left fastener, undo the zipper and fold it back behind the front seat, while the right side and the rear part stay in place, you can drive at 80 mph and the thing will not move. The snap fasteners that go on the doors by the vents are not needed at all, and the car looks much cleaner.

Again I hope to clarify a lot of things with the pictures.

Regarding the question as to the dash material, I can't remember but I am fairly sure my dash is metal, I did take it off to recover it some years ago, and my memory is fading on the subject; but I can tell you that in my case the lift-the-dot studs hold their place very well and don't think they will pull out. The other option however is to secure the studs on to the dash using a metal plate under the dash and some sort of nut to hold them in place and reduce the tension...

Again, please be patient with the pictures
 
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