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Ok so the belt is on and im currently tensioning following the tsb procedure. I have a few questions...

Is the weighted arm supposed to move up and down as i rotate the crank? I know that the tsb says just be sure the arm doesnt fall bellow horizontal.
You do have all the spark plugs out don't you? If plugs out and engine turns easily with socket on front crank pulley nut then, the weighed arm should be fairly steady unless you have some debris in the grooves if one of the 6 cogged pulleys - 4 cams, aux drive and crank.
 

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Ok so the belt is on and im currently tensioning following the tsb procedure. I have a few questions...

Is the weighted arm supposed to move up and down as i rotate the crank? I know that the tsb says just be sure the arm doesnt fall bellow horizontal.
The weighted arm will "bob" a little as you are turning the crank. The purpose of keeping the arm close to horizontal is to ensure the precise amount of force is applied to the tensioner; if it falls too low, the force applied will not be enough and your measurements - air gap and rig pin - will not be correct.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Moment of truth

I got it all together and it ran well!! Aside from the coilpack the I suspected was arcing, and is being addressed.

However, now Im worried about the air gap. After running it for maybe 10 minutes, I shut the car off and I looked at the gap and it was really small, no longer 1/8". Is that OK?
 

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Let everything sit for a few hours. Then re-measure the air gap.
 

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Discussion Starter #65 (Edited)
No change

The gap hasnt changed, still less than 1/8". It is not at tdc, so does that matter? The gap was correct last night and this morning. Even after i rotated the engine for the serpentine it was 1/8", so should I retension now?
 

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As long as the gap returns to 1/8" after repeated revolutions of the crank and adequate time to allow the tensioner piston to stabilize.

Returning the engine to TDC is only to verify the timing marks are still in their rightful places. It is just convenient for the whole process: Turn the crank several times. Stop on top dead center. Check the marks. Wait a while. Check the air gap and rig pin insertion. Do it again.
 

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The gap hasnt changed, still less than 1/8". It is not at tdc, so does that matter? The gap was correct last night and this morning. Even after i rotated the engine for the serpentine it was 1/8", so should I retension now?
If you had 1/16" pin in tensioner body and piston and had 1/8" air gap between top of tensioner body and lower surface of eccentric lever AND were holding a pry bar under weighted arm weight to prevent it from moving while you torqued tensioner pulley nut to 55 ft lb you should still have close to 1/8". If you are slightly less than 1/8' air gap then you should also be slightly more compression (retraction) on piston and 1/16" drill bit won't go in either.

If engine temp and ambient temp hotter than when you did tensioning this maybe normal. It means belt is slightly over tensioned but better than under tensioned.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Re

I started the car one final time this evening, the gap when the car is off is slighty larger than 1/16th". When the car is running, the gap is at what looks like 1/8". When reving it slightly, it gets a little bit wider. Then when the car is shut off it goes back to just larger than 1/16th".

I agree that it is over-tensioned, should I retension it tomorrow after it settles? I made sure to use the pry bar under the weight.
 

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I started the car one final time this evening, the gap when the car is off is slighty larger than 1/16th". When the car is running, the gap is at what looks like 1/8". When reving it slightly, it gets a little bit wider. Then when the car is shut off it goes back to just larger than 1/16th".

I agree that it is over-tensioned, should I retension it tomorrow after it settles? I made sure to use the pry bar under the weight.
If it is close to 1/8" in the cool of the morning I would be inclined to let it go. Your call.
 

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Discussion Starter #70 (Edited)
Re

In the morning, the gap came back noticably wider but the 1/8th bit doesnt fit. The belt being a little over tensioned at the point would put extra strain on the new bearings, but knowing they are new and also knowing that the belt tends to slaken itself, I hope I am making the right choice by leaving it be.

I feel I have greater to lose by attempting to slacken it... Thanks for everyones help, I wouldnt be this far with out you guys, and boy does she purr!
 

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Really neat thread and I've learned alot. thanx for sharing. ciao chris
 

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Discussion Starter #72
I checked the gap today after about 3 weeks, it was still smaller than spec. However, for reference, at idle the gap is at 1/8", attached is a photo, I'm debating on a retention, but I don't hear any whine from the belt/bearings (typical of a over-tensioned belt). I need some more answers to, "What would you do?"
 

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its fine

leave it alone. If you used the weighted arm then there is no 'overtension'. I think you are (understandably on this car!!!) a bit too precise on this particular matter.
 

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Rejuvinating great old thread with a couple of extra questions:
1) What length/size bolts to use in the camlocks/dies?
2) Haven't been able to source 22mm M6 bolts for waterpump. Have 25mm ones: OK to add a thick washer or better to cut to 22mm with angle grinder?

Thanks in advance :)
 

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Another question. Never used camlocks/dies before. Have just noticed that to fit them I need to take off camshaft clamps. What to torque these up to when refitting? Are new bolts needed for these? If so what size?
Thanks.
 

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It is best to get a set of longer bolts when installing cam locks but if you don't over torque original bolts that hold bearing caps to head you should not have a problem. I have sold all my 24v cam tools and extra longer set of bolts went with sale.
 

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The only thing you're trying to do with the cam locks is determine relative position of the cams. I "snugged" mine, didn't torque them. When you put the actual cam caps back on, that's when things get torqued to factory spec.
 
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