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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,

I started disassembling the car for the timing belt change. It has been 40K since the last owner changed the belt back in '08 so I figure I do it now before it is too late. This is my first timing belt change for this car, so I'm a little uneasy.

I removed the plenum, runners, right fender liner, right timing belt cover today and took a break for the day.

I have a lead on some special tools in my area, but in case that falls though perhaps AlfistoSteve has got his loaner set back.

I hope to document and photo as much as I can like John did in his 24v post, and hopefully I won't run into too many troubles. I already kept some notes about where things go to reassemble and also labeled connectors on the car.

Wish me luck
 

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good start

take your time and use your camera phone to take a lot of reference photos

for future -- plenum can come out without removing the runners from the intake manifold.Just loosen up the allen screws (2 per runner) a little bit to get some wiggle. This way, you don;t have to wrestle the gaskets back in place, and no worry about dropped screws.

Also you might consider draining radiator. Replacing water pump every 60 - 80K miles is good insurance .

Check all idlers for bearing noise/smoothness/axial play.

If you are going to use the cam dies, try to save the valve cover gasket and do save the orange half-moon seals where the camshaft comes thru. Use black sealant to on places where the half moon seals dont cover.

Use a torque wrench for EVERYTHING and use antiseize on all screws/bolt/fasteners.

Good start. I'm confident that you will get this done properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Progress

Front cam cover off and I noticed oil down the middle spark plug well. Does anyone have special tools they are willing to lend?
 

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Good luck, may the clover be with you! :D

Keep photos up for future refrence and note any problems you may run into :)
 

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belt change without tools

Since your engine was running beautifully, your cam pulleys should not need any adjustment requiring the the cam locks. You can certainly do the belt change without the special tools if you carefully mark the cams (at two places on each sprocket ). You may have to double check the tensioner gap to ensure it comes out right, and don't forget to check the gap again and readjust after a few months since these long belts tend to stretch a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Re

It was running beautifully, then it started running rather rough a low rpms and went away as they got higher, which is why I decided it was a good time to do it and not chance the belt slipping more. Thanks for the advice though. Still looking for some tools to borrow/rent if possible.
 

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It was running beautifully, then it started running rather rough a low rpms and went away as they got higher, which is why I decided it was a good time to do it and not chance the belt slipping more. Thanks for the advice though. Still looking for some tools to borrow/rent if possible.
Maybe if Myron's LS sells on ebay and Jake in NH buys my tools he will rent them to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Until then, I'll just slowly take everything off and be ready the moment the tools finally make it here. Here is the voltage regulator I pulled off. Does anyone have any spare valve cover gaskets or spark plug well seals before I make another order? I'm enjoying the progress that has been made and cleaning all the parts!! Also note the omen in the last picture...
 

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That's not an omen, that's a lucky charm!
 

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So you need a voltage regulator, too? You know where to get a new one at a good price right? Glad you have a garage to work in. Hope/glad you have a tool rental contract in hand by now?

As for omen, I had to take our Doxie to vet yesterday for a bladder infection treatment and their big black mascot came into the examination room and comforted her. That black cat was bigger than my 9# dog!

Rear VC gasket is 60568808 and ARI has it in stock but they do not have 60568809 front one or 60513838 sparkplug well gaskets in stock. Bet Jason has them though.

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/489635-post3.html looks like 24v regulator different than 12v one though.

Here is one using Bosch 1 197 311 214 number.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/REGULATOR-BOSCH-AUDI-BMW-CADILLAC-SAAB-VW-VOLVO-WINNEBAGO-1992-2002-MORE-/360402761287?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53e9adb647&vxp=mtr
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Voltage regulator

I know I bought the wrong type voltage regulator:

Bosch Alternator Voltage Regulator/ Brush Assembly NEW | eBay

But I purchased the correct one last night. Unfortunately I have not received replies from anyone with tools yet, but I'm going to ask AONE if they have them because they have loaners.

Do I have to take the motor mount out and lower the transmission, or is that just for more room?
 

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I know I bought the wrong type voltage regulator:

Bosch Alternator Voltage Regulator/ Brush Assembly NEW | eBay

But I purchased the correct one last night. Unfortunately I have not received replies from anyone with tools yet, but I'm going to ask AONE if they have them because they have loaners.

Do I have to take the motor mount out and lower the transmission, or is that just for more room?
Not bottom motor mounts, disconnect top dog bone mount, pop air cleaner loose to protect hose, support tranny, remove tranny mount and lower tranny so you get more room to work on timing belt covers if needed. Looks like you have at least front TB cover off already though. I know both front and rear 24v TB covers different than 12v but I still like more room on 24v model too when routing timing belt over aux pulley.
 

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Use the Snap-ON

1/4 inch universal drive sockets in 8, 10, 11,12, 13 and 14 mm (IIRC you only need the 10 mm for the tbelt covers) and then there is no need (on either of my cars) to remove the trans mount or any motor mount, or the strut.

I did have to remove the hold down bracket that clamps onto the AC line / POR valve to get enough movement from that line to get the back side cover off though.

Those 1/4 inch snap-on uni's are awesome! Saves so much time and effort on close-quarters jobs like this one

bob
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Progress

Removed rear cam cover, rear timing belt cover, and serpentine belt!! Going to get the 1 5/8 socket at Sears tomorrow and rotate to TDC, still awaiting tools, kind replies from all but no one has any so far. So far, pretty easy, some frustrating times with one coil pack allen that was stripped and also the timing belt cover thing on the rear bank that prevents the rear cam cover from coming off...but all set now.
 

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Call me if you need anything or a need any help with timing her. I can talk you through it if needed

Ciao!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks

Thanks Jason,

When the time comes I may order some coil packs, gaskets, ect. Also do you carry the spark plug well seals, they arent on your site.
 

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Timing belt tensioner setting looks close right now in pix. Can you insert 1/16" rig pin (drill bit end or drill rod) through both body and hole in piston?

I see you have serpentine belt tensioner pinned off with larger drill bit already.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Tensioner

I tried to insert the 1/16 drill bit in the tensioner but it is off by a fraction. How do I compress it a tiny bit while it is on the engine?
 

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24v cam timing info on homemade tool; maintenance tips

I tried to insert the 1/16 drill bit in the tensioner but it is off by a fraction. How do I compress it a tiny bit while it is on the engine?
The factory tool way is to have adapter and weighted arm installed and then lift arm to help compress piston enough to insert pin.

The homeboy not special tools way is to make a lever with two pins in it to fit two holes in tensioner bearing pulley center piece and use it to lift pulley arm and compress piston enough to install pin.

I made mine out of an old 12v mechanical tension base with two 6mm bolts installed in it for the pins and since it has lifting lug in it that I installed a 3/8" drive hinge handle bar.

This is the tool I used before I had factory tools in pix below.

Once you get pin in piston and tensioner body AND before you loosen anything you need to check air gap between tensioner body top edge and bottom of bearing pulley arm flat that piston is pushing against. If 1/16" pin in tensioner body and piston this air gap should be 1/8" (use 1/8" drill bit).

If you have correct 1/8" air gap with 1/16" pin in piston/body then timing belt is in proper tension and I doubt your cam timing slipped. Unless disclaimer - timing belt bearing pulley mount that is resting on end of piston is binding on the pivot point in front engine cover hidden under pulley.

Once you get piston pinned, engine at top dead center and all 4 cams locked in place either with special timing dies or homemade locks on cam pulleys or camshats and if no timing dies to lock cams inspect/verify timing marks on back ends of all 4 cams to see if they match marks on rear of head below cam bearing caps area and are spot on and only then should you loosen bolt holding bearing pulley to mount.

You then can verify that bearing pulley mount pivots freely on mounting stud. If binding at all you need to remove snap ring on stud, remove mount, polish pin and use something like a brass or fine wire pipe cleaner style rush to clean out brass bushing inside mount.

Ask me how I know about this because this binding pivot point is what caused Myrons timing belt to cause rear intake cam to jump time years ago.
 

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