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Discussion Starter #1
Searching through threads for procedures on removing the 24v starter (1995 ls in my case) conjured up scary images of removing steering pumps, oil filters and joining many, many extensions to get to that troublesome top-inner bolt.
o, looked at it carefully, felt around with my fingers and peered between all barrow openings and I saw what I believed was the troublesome target. I was correct. If you carefully lay across your engine (making sure all brittle plastics and wire harnesses are aside), look down the right of the rear cylinder head and you can just make out that bolt.
Instead of removing the wheel and steering pump (I had removed the wheel and liners but thought no more useful for spotting purposes), use a 13mm socket, longer or shorter as you may have, and a 3/8 drive extension. A wobble extension is the most useful as you will have a bit of play if you attach the socket part of the way, guide it from the back of the starter, between the relay and block and onto the bolt head THEN push it into place. I had tied a 1.2 drive but there was no room for the ratchet (no room to move the racket back and forth due to the length of the handle and larger head). The extension should be long enough to clear the starter body BUT not so long that it jams up against the filter area. I was able to get both arms up from underneath, one to hold the extension in place and the other to ratchet. came out without an argument. Not sue if anyone has written up this procedure and if so, my bad for not noticing it as it would have saved me many moments of staring at things but at least this part of the battle is done.
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Discussion Starter #2
Darn typo... should have read "So, looked at it...' and "narrow openings".
 

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Somebody been there before you if the front starter mounting bracket was not on front of starter. Only saw it on 24v models never on a 12v. Not really sure why Alfa added it to 24v models so no biggy if yours was missing. Strange black wire goes to low pressure red light pressure switch on oil filter engine/mount housing.
 

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Congratulations, that job is a PITA on a 164. I decided it was easier to pull the engine and transmission out so I could remove the starter and get to the transmission bolts to change a bad throw out bearing. Well, I needed to pull the steering rack for a rebuild, change all the belts, tensioner, hoses and radiator. While I was at it, I had the starter rebuilt following advice here on the ABB.

There were several other posts about changing the starter but ever since the ABB conversion a couple months ago, my searches often come up empty now for some reason.

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Somebody been there before you if the front starter mounting bracket was not on front of starter. Only saw it on 24v models never on a 12v. Not really sure why Alfa added it to 24v models so no biggy if yours was missing. Strange black wire goes to low pressure red light pressure switch on oil filter engine/mount housing.
Probably. I have a stack of receipts from 1999, when the former-former owner bought it in Washington. The engine was replaced in 2002 so there's a chance the bracket was not replaced or forgotten afterwards (I vaguely recall seeing a receipt for a starter). I was going to add up the receipts but I don't know if that would impress me or scare me.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hope to bench test my starter later on after dinner. So, here's the question: Do I attach 12v to the large lug, ground to the body and run a switched 12v to the exciter wire to test? I expect this is the case but thought I would confirm. There are 2 spades on the relay. The larger is the exciter wire as I recall and as the markings on the spade from the connector confirm.
 

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Go for it that is the way to hook it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Got to be doing something wrong. The starter worked when removed, just cleaned and replaced brushes and holder. Bench testing though won't stat or click solenoid. Adding 12v directly (bypassing solenoid) spins motor but can't seem to get solenoid action. Difficult to find hook up images on this starter. Is the smaller spade to be connected as well? Can the solenoid be tested safely by direct hooking 12v to the exciter spade and neg to the solenoid body?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The starter has been dealt with. i just couldn't get it to kick in during a bench test so I brought the solenoid and starter to my starter repair guy. He tested the starter and all sounded fine so he installed a new solenoid for $40 (cdn). Bench tested that and all is good. he also tested the original solenoid and it worked for him so the mystery continues..... For the $60 ($20 for brushes and holder, $40 for solenoid) I can now feel assured that I shouldn't be yanking this out for years to come.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Got the starter back on....after a frustrating 1 hour before realizing that the intermediate plate had rotated and the bolt holes were not lining up. Then clouds started appearing and packed it all up for the day. 2 more days of off and on rain predicted. The Oil pressure-red light sensor is mangled at the connection end so that will have to be replaced. Looking though threads to see if the pre-94/95 (ls) units are the same as the 94 onward versions. My low pressure light has never come on while driving (there is a bulb..... see it on startup with the rest pf the warning lights) so not sure how sender works. I would think that the oil pressure would close the internal connection (you can hear a click when closing it manually) but I was not getting any change in the readings with a ohm reader so the internals are probably no good. I would then think that a broken switch would turn the light on, as would a broken connector yet this was not connected (mysterious black wire dangling under the steering rack area). So, I will look for a replacement and if the light then comes on...something else to look into. Have a good day.
 
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