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Discussion Starter #1
I can't seem to find any information on the 24V oil pan removal. I have all of the bolts out except for the one under the cast aluminum engine mount.

I've read the 12V instructions, and I've removed the bolt under the intermediate shaft flange, but the one under the engine mount has me stumped.

Has anyone pulled the pan on one of these before? Any advice?

Thanks!!
 

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Are you talking about behind item 5 bracket in 2nd pix front AL mount bracket under a/c compressor? I am thinking there is one bolt behind ii but two there on 12v so probably/maybe same on 24v?

Eper shows 21 total fasteners for oil pan

FIAT ePER

item 2 STUDs QTY
13516821 02

and item 4 19 pan SCREWs
15248621 M7X40 01
15248024 M7X30 18

Once you get pan loose you usually have to disconnect oil pick up tube from pump and main bearing cap to get pan off engine (see pix 3 items 8/10 bolts).
 

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hi
need to do that gob to because there is an oil leak from the gusket.
did you removed it just by lifting the car or you have to remove all the mount of the engiune first ?
thanks
 

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I removed the oil pan from a 12v once, it was not fun. Removing the oil pump pick up tube is tedious. Also, remove the oil level sensor probe, I did not and I cracked mine.
 

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yes so its like my mechanic said, cant be done in the short way.
i have in my 24v leek of oil from there and for reparing it .......1200usd.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It is the bolt under the aluminum engine mount with the intermediate shaft bearing on the rear of the engine. It seems like the only way to access it is to remove the engine mount.
 

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It is the bolt under the aluminum engine mount with the intermediate shaft bearing on the rear of the engine. It seems like the only way to access it is to remove the engine mount.
I guess so and it is also the oil filter mounting pad on 24v engine so there will be some kind of 234035067 oil seal where it attaches to engine by 4 bolts.

item 3 SEAL 234035067
item 18 SCREW 4 bolts
16043934 M8X35 02
16044634 M8X70 01
16044421 M8X60 01
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm starting to wonder if pulling the engine would be easier. My reason for pulling the oil pan is to pull the rod caps and inspect the bearings and rod journals.
 

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11mm wrench

It was a real pain in the butt...I finally took a wrench and cut a slot to maneuver it on the bolt...see attached. Took me a while to get it...Make sure you do remove the oil level sender as well. I ended up removing the engine later that year to do the bearings. Good luck and take you time..it can be done.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It was a real pain in the butt...I finally took a wrench and cut a slot to maneuver it on the bolt...see attached. Took me a while to get it...Make sure you do remove the oil level sender as well. I ended up removing the engine later that year to do the bearings. Good luck and take you time..it can be done.
Thanks for the input!! I already have an 'experimental' 11MM wrench, so I'll cut a slot as I see you did.

Do you imagine I could do the rod bearings with the engine in the car?
 

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If I were doing this, I wouldn't think twice about it. The engine would come out. It's so much easier to work on and your going to find other things that need fixing, or preventative maintenance that should be done. What's the history of the car? How long have you had it?
 

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I think: You could probably change the rod bearings with the engine in the car, but if indeed a rod bearing(s) is bad you probably have crankshaft journal damage also. The crankshaft damage may be difficult to assess and difficult to correct with the engine in the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok, I've been at it for 3 hours and I'm pretty close to getting it out. Is this bolt shorter than the rest? It doesn't seem like there's room for it to come out.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have everything off but the pan. I'm not sure I understand Steve's instructions for moving the pan:

7. Dropping the pan - the fun part:
Now, you will find out that you cannot just lower the pan and take it out. The sub-frame and the oil pump pick up won't let you. I started to take the oil pump pick up out and one allen bolt was giving me some hard time. After a break, I thought I'd give the oil pan puzzle another try. And yes, I took the pan down without detaching the oil pump pick up. Here's what I did (from memory): Drop the pan a little bit with the left side a little lower, slide it forward and to the left as much as possible so you can rotate it (yes, rotate!). I think I have rotated the pan clockwise (looking up) for about 225 degrees before getting it to clear the sub-frame.
All directions looking up at the engine with the front of car toward your feet?

I can't clear the pan over the oil pump. I've removed the pick-up. Engine is lifted such that cam gear almost touches chassis.
 

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I can't visualize what would be different with 24v bottom end that would prevent you from getting pan off once oil pick up tube removed.

Did you remove oil level sensor tube from near rear of A/C compressor? It has two wires going to it?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I can't visualize what would be different with 24v bottom end that would prevent you from getting pan off once oil pick up tube removed.

Did you remove oil level sensor tube from near rear of A/C compressor? It has two wires going to it?
Level sensor is removed. I'll take a photo. The shallow side of the oil pan isn't clearing the the oil pump.
 

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Lift engine a little

When I accomplished it a few years back, I believed I loosened the sub frame and jacked the engine up a bit using a jack at the crankshaft pulley(block of wood under it) then turned the pan a little bit...there was jubilation when I discover the right combination though. Take you time, and don't break anything.
 
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