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While I've found the glass bottle and rubber components, like you, from a local Citroen parts dealer, he has been unable to locate a new aluminum cap, which is the one part I could use.
Dan, this supplier for French car parts in Germany seems to have the caps as a stock item (pictures below are from their web site). The item description in their catalog says:
"Cap for a brake fluid reservoir from glass. Thread about 44mm. Suitable for Citroen 11CV, 2CV, HY, Panhard, Peugeot 203, 403, 404."
The thread diameter of "about 44mm" would translate to about 1-3/4 inches, which probably would have to be verified before ordering.

 

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Discussion Starter #66
Hi,

Yesterday I received the complementary parts for the brake system :

Master Vac,
4 way connection,
Vacuum valve for the intake manifold,
Vacuum hose.

IMG_0902 copie.jpg

IMG_0905 copie.jpg

The master vac is the one installed on Austin Healey 3000 : It is much more reliable than the 2600 Girling which vacuum piston is sometime a nightmare.

All parts purchase to English car spare parts dealers which prices are unbeatable.

Concerning the engine :
Do you know where I can find new pistons and new valve ?

Serge
 

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For a 2000, all the regular sources should have internal engine parts. OKP and Classic Alfa are my favorites.

I've had Pistons made by both JE and Venolia. The last two engines I built I used JE pistons organized By "Top End Performance" in Southern California. They also renewed my connecting rods. We reduced the diameter of the wrist pins (and hole in the piston) to reduce the oscillating mass.

If you are going to overhaul your cylinder head, I recommend you find a shop that can convert your valves to a 9mm stem instead of the original 10. This will make it much easier to adjust the valve clearances.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Thank you Don for your answer,

9mm valve is a very very good idea but I need more clarification please :

If I change the diameter of the valve from 10 to 9, I'll have to change the valve guides too.

On the 2000, the external diameter of the valve guide is around 15 mm.
The car equipped with 9 mm valve (such as 105 type) have valve guide of 14 mm.

So how shall I proceed ? Where can I find valve guide of 15 with internal diameter of 9 ?

I assume that the floating tappet should be change too ?​

Serge.
 

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Serge,

There are two approaches that I can imagine to achieve 9mm stem.

The valves in the FNM 2300 have a 10mm stem, but 9mm tip. They will fit the standard guide. I believe the spring retainers and keepers are different as well. Not sure where you would obtain these parts, but they certainly exist somewhere.

A good machine shop could also find valves with 9mm stems that have the correct heads and lengths. It is no big deal to locate, or fabricate, guides that would fit the head and stem. Also, retainers, keepers, and springs can be specified to suit.

The key is a top quality shop with a history of vintage and/or racing work.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
OK, thank you Don for your answer :smile2:

I finalize the dismounting of the car.

There are still some details :

I have a switch, on the left side of the wheel, under the dashboard.

I cannot dismount this part : Is this part original ? If yes, how can I dismount it (the button appears stuck to the axis). If it is not original, I will destroy the button.

IMG_0949.jpg
 

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This is not original. Another French oddity?
 

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Given the diameter of the wires (and the fact that there seem to be three wires), could this be a substitute for the original light switch, which seems to be missing in the picture you posted earlier (only 2 knobs visible on the left side of the steering column)?



20O11.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Thank you for your answer.

Ruedi, I have all the witch :

WP_20160430_020 copie.jpg

I'm sure it is not a froggy oddity :wink2:

It is may be due to that :

WP_20151220_026.jpg

:laugh::laugh:
 

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Now, that's something rare. I hope you'll keep it!
 

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By the way, the "floating tappet" is unique to the 102, and perhaps the 1900. I do not know where to obtain new ones, but have read of a couple of companies that might fabricate them to order. They would not need to be changed to accommodate 9mm stems. You would replace them as a function of their condition, or if you were to install new or different cam shafts.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
OK Don, good !

The floating tappet are available at OKP (Retro Rosso for the french market).

Today I open the gear box to see how it is inside (I had a lot of trouble with the 2600 gear box) :

Very dirty but everything looks good (all the teeth are here).

IMG_1026 copie.jpg

Concerning the 2nd : The wolf teeth (I don't know what is the english name, I'm talking about the small teeth in front of the speed gear) look a little bit damaged. That could be the sign that the synchronizing ring is a little bit worm.

IMG_1031.jpg

How can I know that the synchronizing ring should be change ?

Serge
 

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That looks very new, or at least fresh. I'm not really a gearbox guy, but most of the synchros I've seen used up showed little to no grooves on one or both sides.
 

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Serge those little "wolf" teeth should be slightly pointed with a slight angle on the top, they look 'tres bon' in your picture, similarly the grooved syncro ring also looks 'tres bon'

Those are the early syncro rings and will require the correct Dentax oil (huile) without the EP additives of modern oils.

The trick is to remove the 2nd gear synchroniser ring and swap it with 5th gear after turning 5th around as only 1 side ever works on the 5th gear synchroniser ring, also do the 1st gear fix, which makes a difference when selecting 1st from stop. --> http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/gearbox-transaxle-differential-propshaft/29492-first-gear-fix.html

Salut
Greig
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Thank you to both of you for your answer !

Greig,
The trick to use the 5th gear synchroniser ring to replace the 2nd one is very clever !
But to access to the 2nd gear ring, you must disassemble the ball bearing on the right. To do so, you are obliged to push with a press on the axe while fixing the external cage of the ball bearing. The effort goes through the ball and might damage them no ?

The ball bearings of this gear box look all good. I still have to wash and degrease them to be sure, but they seams OK.
So, if my second gear synchroniser ring don't need to be change I prefer to leave it and not take the risk to damage the ball bearing.

Do you thing I can leave such synchroniser ring ?

I read your link regarding the first gear : amazing => Thank you. I will check that on an old 2600 gear box and probably use its parts to upgrade the 2000 gear box.

Thanks a lot.

Serge
 
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