[axlejor]

Hello BB Community,

I am refreshing this thread to collect interest for more of these liner tools. There are two versions available, one for a 2 liter and one for the 1600/1750 block.

The pictures and video show my first two prototypes laser cut in 1/4" mild steel, but the final product will be 1/4" 6061 aluminum to protect the liners and avoid corrosion. It will come with 2 head bolt tubes to tighten it to the block (also in 6061) that are machined with a step at the bottom to locate the plate. The tubes will be removable.

There is a small cutout on each side to allow for installation with the roll pins in place.

This was inspired by Gordon Raymond's versions of this tool and he provided advise and encouragement.

The cost is $125 for either version, not including shipping. As always you pay what I pay to ship.

At this point I just want to know how many folks are interested in them and I can decide how large of a run to produce.

Thanks for your interest,

Alex

P.S. Please excuse the state of this motor. It is my test mule for parts, but it will eventually come all apart. Also, sorry for all the photos and video in portrait mode. I blame Instagram.

 

[PSk]

While potentially a great tool, I don't see a market here as most just chuck a few washers and tubes on the head studs to hole the liners down. A lot cheaper than $125
Pete

 

[axlejor]

While potentially a great tool, I don't see a market here as most just chuck a few washers and tubes on the head studs to hole the liners down. A lot cheaper than $125
Pete

Pete,

I agree that there are plenty of ways to do this. I have some conduit that I welded a washer to when I was in my 20s and it still works. For people who are rarely cracking a motor open, this is the right answer. The ones that are spoken for so far are going to shops.

As of most of my projects, these are for fun and are an exercise in CAD and protyping. There are always cheaper and simpler alternatives, but special tools are special for a reason. They work well and, to me, they bring a certain amount of pleasure to use. The trick is, they should work better than what is already out there and this does.

I will be happy if I sell one or ten, the joy is in the process and making something people can use.

Alex

 

[PSk]

Okay, cool, now understand
Pete

 

[goats]

I;d suggest the following : an aluminum hold-down (like the factory one) but with knurled grip, and a threaded end on it so that you can drop it down the stud, then turn it clockwise to engage the head stud threads and hold in place. That way, the head nuts stay with the head, and its easy-on; easy-off with the cylinder hold downs -- plus, its a pretty easy lathe job and can be made to look pretty good! The one you proposed prevents clean-out of the water jacket --

 

[andylarry]

Alex, Bravo to you for producing these great tools. Do you still have any engine stand mounts for sale? PM me please. Also, perhaps you would consider making the part (a plate) that slides down just below the block deck surface and supports the top of the liners against the inner sides of the block, and helps to keep the liners from flexing / walking, side-to-side, in high high horsepower (for example, turbo) applications. I have seen images of these installed in blocks on this Forum.

 

[axlejor]

Alex, Bravo to you for producing these great tools. Do you still have any engine stand mounts for sale? PM me please. Also, perhaps you would consider making the part (a plate) that slides down just below the block deck surface and supports the top of the liners against the inner sides of the block, and helps to keep the liners from flexing / walking, side-to-side, in high high horsepower (for example, turbo) applications. I have seen images of these installed in blocks on this Forum.

Andy,
I do not make the engine stand mounts you are referring to, that is another member. I will consider the other parts for the future.

Alex

 

[axlejor]

I;d suggest the following : an aluminum hold-down (like the factory one) but with knurled grip, and a threaded end on it so that you can drop it down the stud, then turn it clockwise to engage the head stud threads and hold in place. That way, the head nuts stay with the head, and its easy-on; easy-off with the cylinder hold downs -- plus, its a pretty easy lathe job and can be made to look pretty good! The one you proposed prevents clean-out of the water jacket --

Thanks for your suggestions. I guess I figured this plate would be used once a clean motor was put together, but you make a good point. I will look into the hold down too.

Alex

 

[Jim G]

I've got one of the first generation cylinder hold down. Like the one your making. Dates from the mid 50's for the 750 series Giulietta.

 

[Jim G]

I;d suggest the following : an aluminum hold-down (like the factory one) but with knurled grip, and a threaded end on it so that you can drop it down the stud, then turn it clockwise to engage the head stud threads and hold in place. That way, the head nuts stay with the head, and its easy-on; easy-off with the cylinder hold downs -- plus, its a pretty easy lathe job and can be made to look pretty good! The one you proposed prevents clean-out of the water jacket --

Do you have a picture of one of these?

I have an original one from the 50's and its just steel like the one Alex is making.

 

[Jim G]

Alex, I'll take one.

These would be great for an engine where you have to clamp the liners down where you had to put sealant on the liner to seal it to the block due to corrosion.

 

[Gordon Raymond]

I've used these for years on 1600 race engines. They are perfect to hold things tightly together while allowing turning the engine to check P/L drag and more.

Here's one on a GTA engine. Note that the conventional single hold downs are also in use. If an engine will sit, waiting on parts or head work, partially assembled, or is shipped, this type fixture prevents problems.

 

[axlejor]

Gordon helped me a lot with pictures and dimensions for this project while I was planning it. Thank you Gordon!

Alex

 

[darnellsgarage]

Hey Alex, I replied on Instagram, but I’ll take one too.

 

[goats]

Do you have a picture of one of these?

I have an original one from the 50's and its just steel like the one Alex is making.

Jim, it’s just like this, but with a nut on top so that all you do is drop it in the stud, and twist it on to thread onto the stud and hold it down

 

[horsewidower]

Mark me down for one

Bob


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[axlejor]

Mark me down for one

Bob


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Will Do Thanks Bob.

Alex

 

[axlejor]

I visited Oliveria Engineering today to get some measurements on a 1600 or 1750 block. I tried the plate on a 1600 block and I think it will work fine for that and a 1750. It is not totally concentric on cylindrers 1 and 4 because the spacing changes compared to a 2 liter, but it clearly catches enough of the liner to hold it down securely. It looks like this plate will work for all applications (not sure about a 1300). The head stud spacing is the same across the board.

Alex

 

[Jim G]

Just a thought.

Why not make it so it goes around 1 and 4 cylinders completely also. You can notch or drill an oversized hole for the 2 alignment pins. Also make it a little thicker then the height of the alignment pins then it would work really well to put an even torque on the cylinder if you had to.

 

[Jim G]

Here are pictures of the 1300 on a 2 liter.

I think you could make 2 different sized ones. One to cover the 1300/1600 and another for the 1750/2000.