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...first.. i am have bought a fusebox out of an 86 spider..newer blade fuse type. to replace my ceramic fuse box.. is this a plug and go?:confused: on do any wires/plugs go any where else?..second..on the wires coming out of the key starter ,under the dash..3 wires..only the green one is not hooked up to anything.:confused:.normal? thanks:)
 

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Tifosi did this swap you are about to do and I think it was pretty much plug and play. (I bought a used fuse box because I needed the handle/clip. I took the clip off of it and sent him the box.) Might want to PM him about the job.
 

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The fusebox is straight up plug-n-play, with all contact/connections being the same type/same locations on both boxes. (you'll likely find the contacts on the bullet box are brass and/or copper while the later one are all white metal stuff)

The cover on your older one will fit the later one after the handle/clip thing that kunzman describes is removed.

Once it's out of there, the hinge pin for your lid will go right in the same location.

It'll even hang in the same spot using the same pivot points.

The only difference you may encounter is the fusebox illumination light might not have it's contacts/connections in the later box.

The socket is there, but the rest might not be (we're still trying to pin down when that may have dissapeared from the system as it is shown in some monopod era diagrams)

However, if the stuff isn't there and you're compelled to have the light, one could take the parts off the old box (ground strap, connector on the back side and the spring and contact bits from inside the socket), and move it all over to the new one with just a single hole drilled and a single pop rivet to retain the ground strap and it's connector on the back.

Regardless, if you do swap over to the blade type, you won't be dealing with fuses coming loose, availability at gas stations etc. if you do pop one but don't carry spares (try to find a bullet fuse at the local Sunoco), and if it's anything like mine turned out, you'll even pick up 1/2-1 volt in the system overall.


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On the ignition switch, if you've only got three wires they all should be connected.

One pair operates the 'circut on' (ie: the run position) while the third is what brings the starter into the loop.

How yours works now I've got no idea, but with the 3 wire and even the later 4 wire switches, everything should be connected if the rest of the harness/wiring is normal.
 
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