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1978 Spider
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Discussion Starter #1
Looking at both spiders...the mounts look a bit different...I figure they are the same for both cars so I'm guessing one is worn out...but which one? Both are the driver's side. can't tell if one is OEM and one after market...or if both are the same and just one is worn out...
 

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7840 looks really bulgy and cracked, so is probably compressed and squished, lowering the engine. 7851 doesn't look so bad, looks to me more like cracked paint. There are round ones, square ones, rounded square ones, a variety. Alfa isn't making them any longer so they're all aftermarket at this point.
By comparative standards Alfa mounts are large and soft, on purpose. On hydraulic clutch cars it doesn't matter that much if the whole power unit moves around some. Keeps the vibrations in!
Andrew
 

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1st one doesn't look good. (passenger side will be worse)
2nd one is OK from here

^^
basically wot he said:)
 

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1978 Spider
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Discussion Starter #4
first picture is the 1984...no service history...

second picture is the 1978...lots of PO documented service...but nothing mentioned about the mounts
 

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The thing is, as the mounts age and soften, in some ways things get better in terms of vibration. Until they droop so much that something hits something else, it's not that much of a problem, in my experience. The driveshaft donut can flex and allow some misalignment without any real issue; it's designed for it with the rounded "olive" on the back of the trans shaft. So unless the engine hits the sump guard, the exhaust hits something, or the rear of the pan drags on the steering links (not good), it's not actually that big a thing. It can lead, especially on Spiders, to shifting issues as the shifter hits the console. Though that happens more with a dying trans mount.

Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter #6
guess I should raise the engine and see how much they flex? Or un bolt them and raise engine and then grab and see how much play? Beyond the rubber physically separating, how do you really know they are bad?
 

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My advice matches whats said above.
In my experience with my spider, which had worn engine mounts, the transmission mount was also worn.
If you determine one or both sets of your engine mounts to be worthy of replacing, may want to visit the trans mount next.
 

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If you take them out, look at them from the "front" or "back." The rubber block's upper and lower surface should be parallel. As they age they distort and the two surface become not-parallel. If the rubber is gooey, cracked, or very hard, time to replace. By the time you do the work, you might as well just change them.
Trans mount is tougher, they can be stubborn and take a special tool or substitute to get in and out.
Andrew
 

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guess I should raise the engine and see how much they flex? Or un bolt them and raise engine and then grab and see how much play? Beyond the rubber physically separating, how do you really know they are bad?
they won't wobble if you grab them unbolted....they don't get like jelly, they deform
the driver's side stretches, the passenger side compresses.
here you can see on mine even the metal was splitting as the driver's side was stretched (as engine torques to passenger side)....couldn't see it with them in place:
mounts engine.JPG
If you raise the engine to see how much they flex, they could split right off (they are not designed to hold the weight of the car)

look at the gap between the front pulley and the sway bar.....should be able to get your fingers in there (depends on model I suppose...on my 90 the pulley was scraping paint off the bar)
lie on your stomach and look at the sump (oil pan): if it is dead horizontal that's good, if not its a sign of worn mounts.
if you have a sump guard, the sump hangs too far down, almost touching the guard

best just change them.
Once done (together with trans bush) it will be a whole new ride:)
its the baptism of fire for most alfisti, that's for sure.

Oh, and your second picture of the '78 mount, looks to be dated 80 in a circle (that's 1980)....but as it doesn't look that bad I'm guessing it is already been replaced with a NOS item at some stage.
 

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When you get replacements, make absolutely sure you get the correct ones. We have had various people here in the Netherlands that somehow managed to get mounts that were only marginally higher. BIG problem when you think the job is done and you close the bonnet/hood. You will find the imprint of your oil cap mounted at the front of the engine pushed into the bonnet/hood. There is only a few mm clearance!

Good luck
Jeroen
 

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When you get replacements, make absolutely sure you get the correct ones. We have had various people here in the Netherlands that somehow managed to get mounts that were only marginally higher. BIG problem when you think the job is done and you close the bonnet/hood. You will find the imprint of your oil cap mounted at the front of the engine pushed into the bonnet/hood. There is only a few mm clearance!

Good luck
Jeroen
Just the thought of that makes me want to cry :oops:
 

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When you get replacements, make absolutely sure you get the correct ones. We have had various people here in the Netherlands that somehow managed to get mounts that were only marginally higher. BIG problem when you think the job is done and you close the bonnet/hood. You will find the imprint of your oil cap mounted at the front of the engine pushed into the bonnet/hood. There is only a few mm clearance!

Good luck
Jeroen
Jeroen, could you expand on this point please ? When I look at the usual suppliers, they only show one type of left and right engine mount.
Reason I ask - I recently noticed that the front rolled seam on my can-shaped air cleaner housing is rubbing the underside of the bonnet. These mounts were replaced when the engine was rebuilt a few years ago. The engine sits nice and level, when viewed at sump, but this contact can't be correct. So further info on alternative mounts would be appreciated !
 
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