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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all.
I've been stuck on this clutch for weeks. Firstly, it just wouldn't bleed and hold pressure. I've replaced the slave and master (what a horrible job!) and in the process of trying to bleed it after that I've managed to dislodge the clutch fork from the clutch shaft/housing. I can't for the life of me seem to get it back in. What am I missing? Any tips?

Once I've got the fork sorted again, any tips for bleeding it? I made a crude vacuum bleeder out of a garden spray bottle and some clear hose. It sucked the old fluid out quite well, but can't seem to suck the air and new fluid through. I'm wondering if the hose from reservoir to master cylinder is blocked, or collapsed.
Cheers,
Reuben
 

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I use the garden sprayer but I don't suck the new fluid through. I fill the reservoir then pressurize it using a cap with a fitting to attach the sprayer. The little extra pressure over just the pedal pump method has always worked for me. Also get the back of the car as high as possible ( some have suggested leaving it overnight) so air goes to the bleed nipple. Your slave needs to be oriented so the bleed nipple is at the top or you will never get all the air out.
 

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+1 on the bleed valve oriented at the top.

Hi all.
I've managed to dislodge the clutch fork from the clutch shaft/housing. I can't for the life of me seem to get it back in. What am I missing? Any tips?
These can be quite fiddly, sometimes they just slide right in but most of the time they are a hassle to get in. What I do is to try get the bearing into the position that I think is closest to what I need, try to get the fork in, and if it doesn't slide in, use the ends of the fork to rotate the bearing a little and try again. Usually after about 10 frustrating minutes of going back and forth, it eventually just slides right in.

Kevin
 

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Richard Jemison
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clutch

To get the fork back in the pull type release bearing you have to have the two flats that the fork rides on lined up with the forks opening and pivot. Not really hard to do, but you have to turn the clutch till you get to that position. Get a flashlight and long screwdriver.

To get air out of the slave cyl you will have to push the piston fully into the bore. (after you get all of the air out of the line from the MC to the slave.
 

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If you have this slave you don't need the bleed nipple at the top. I was told this when I had trouble bleeding my TS. The hole is drilled on an angle so that it comes through at the top inside the bore. That's why it's not drilled towards the centre of the bore and off to the side.
Pull one apart and you can see instantly [for the 2 slaves that I had anyway]. The slave will bleed while bolted in position.


Only this type of slave needs to be bled with the nipple at the top. Which I believe only the 3lt 75's had this type?



My problem was a seized slave piston and a broken spring inside the master. Fixed that, bled the hell out of the system [2 bottles of new fluid] and gave up. I was ready to push the car off the axle stands. Called dad to come give me a hand after my partner had cracked it with bleeding [to be fair, we probably spent 3 hours between 2 cars in very cold weather]. Once dad come over 1 hour later the clutch was magically fine. I have no idea what happened...
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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To get the fork back in the pull type release bearing you have to have the two flats that the fork rides on lined up with the forks opening and pivot. Not really hard to do, but you have to turn the clutch till you get to that position. Get a flashlight and long screwdriver.
Yeah, this. It's one of those things that's easy to do once you already know how to do it :D Keep trying and you'll get it on there.

Lube the contact points at the end of the fork and pivot ball with some good grease while you have it out. Makes a big difference in smoothness of actuation and reduces wear.

2.5s, in the US at least, had the second slave that needs to be rotated to have the bleed nipple on the top. With a new master, bleed at the master FIRST...crack the fitting, pump the pedal (with a rag around the fitting), tighten the fitting, release the pedal. Do this a few times to get the master full, then you should be able to get the slave to bleed no problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Brilliant. Thanks for the help. I'm sure I can get it sorted now...
 

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I would also raise the back on the ramps and do the bleeding you will be surprised how good results you will get.
 

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There ya go, I've never seen a 2.5lt so couldn't say definitively.
 
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