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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2.5 New questions.

Where is it?

1984 GTV6. Undid a bung yesterday from the l/h side behind the exhaust headers and its a blocked hole, as in it does not go inside the block. Its a hole drilled into, but not through the block, tapped and plugged off with a brass bung. Maybe a sensor hole not used on my car. I cant see another drain plug.
 

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There should be one of those on both sides of the engine and they should go through the block and into the cooling "bath" where the liners are. This is a way to drain the coolant from the block.
 

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Larger plug about mid way on the block (front to rear) just above the motor mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys. Ill have another look today as I may have missed it. Is it possible it isn't there, or am I just retarded?
 

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Drain Plugs

Larger plug about mid way on the block (front to rear) just above the motor mounts.
This is correct. The right bank drain is just above the motor mount and the left bank drain is about 1 1/2 ahead of the motor mount. If this is the brass plug you pulled out take a pick or screwdriver and dig around inside the threaded hole. The plug drains from the bottom of a little pocket that could easily fill up with sediment and not drain.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok so the bung that i had removed from the l/h side was in fact the drain plug as I thought. Located the r/h side and removed it as well. Guess what? They are both blocked solid. And i mean solid. I tried cleaning them with a screw driver and that turned into trying to hammer the screw driver through the gunk, to no avail. I then tried running a tip drill through them and i cant even do that. I'm wondering of this engine has had previous head gasket issues and has been sealed up with an additive. Will be interesting when i remove the heads (which is why I'm trying to drain the block).

Never use additives like this. You may as well poor cement dust inside the cooling system. If I find something amusing when I pull the heads ill post some pics.

Cheers Guys
 

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It is possible that they used Bars Stop leak or a similar product. This happened to me, the entire coolant area in the block was coated pretty well, both drains were plugged, took many ours and a dremel to clean the mess out. If you have the heads done, they may have to sand blast the coolant passages to clean them out, I also had to have this done.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sam thats what im thinking.
Lets have a look when i pull the heads.
Like I said if I find something amusing ill let you know lol
 

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If that is the case, plan on spending time cleaning it all out, and when you are done, you will get cold chills going down your spine everytime you see it at the parts store...

If you do have to get the heads sand blasted, make sure you get all the sand out before you put the heads back on, I had to use a 55 gal drum full of water and basically swirl and shake the heads in the water until no more sand came out...

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Sam. Ill pull the heads today if I find the time. Supposed to be a warm sunny day here and as the car is outside that always helps. If it looks nasty in there I'm just going to find a 3.0lt. Cars are so cheap here. A friend just got offered a 164 with a healthy engine for 350 bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok I pulled the heads. No surprise to find the block full of cement/dirt looking stuff. See the picture of the head and how this sealing compound was gluing the heads on the car. Original two piece head gaskets. The cars 27 years old so I cant complain.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So I plugged all the oil gallery's and hosed all the crap out with a garden hose. Ill clean the head mating surfaces and degrease everything properly.

Now what concerns me is the crap and corrosion around the base of the liners. Do you guys reckon the area around the liners looks nasty?
 

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That is just the build up of the "stop leak" stuff. This looks just like mine did, so it may not be on your want list, but I would pull the engine and pull the liners out and do a good cleaning. You can always put a different engine in, but other than time, you are only looking at a few extra gaskets to pull it apart. You can pull the liners, put them on a wire wheel and they will clean right up, it is getting down into the block that takes the time.

Also, realize that the inside of the cooling passages of the head will look the same, and so will the inside of your radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Sam the question is why would I want to disturb the liners?. If I keep this engine why wouldn't I just leave it alone. The residual sludge/crap in there doesn't stress me out and so far all I did was hose it out with a garden hose.
Thats what I'm thinking anyway.

From what I can see the radiator looks clean and the heads don't look full of crap but ill have a better look tomorrow.

Its interesting because this engine made 133hp and 175nm of torque at the wheels a few months ago and apart from the exhaust its standard. Just drove a round trip of 500 kilometers including 50 laps around a race track and it didn't overheat one little bit. It didn't even use any oil.....maybe that **** was holding the whole thing together lol

Well I have my eye on a 164 for a heart transplant so I guess ill just procrastinate a while as I make my mind up. Opinions appreciated.
 

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Just an FYI, You never want to sand the aluminum smooth at the mating surfaces. Your RA needs to be specific. I don't know the RA for the Alfa. Someone else might. This is critical.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Krazymann ill try some gasket stripper and be gentle with a blade. Looks like the heads have never been of this thing so I have some virgin surface to work with.
 

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You may be fine, but give the coolant passages in the head a good look, I know the guy who rebuilt my heads had a heck of a time getting everything cleaned out. On the liners, I was concerned about heat from the liners being transferred to the coolant, I think the coating of stop leak would act as a type of insulation.

I did not have any over heating issues either, but I was planning on rebuilding mine, so I took it all apart and cleaned it out. If you had a good running engine, you may want to just bolt it back together.

Either way, good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well things cleaned up well. I'm fairly confidant ill be OK. Still not happy with the way the sealant has set in around the liners but stuff it. Its just a club car. Still have to look at these things in the box. Giving the engine bay a quick paint job while I'm at it, just so it doesn't look like such a basket case.
 

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just so it doesn't look like such a basket case.
Not at all. That's to be expected & these engines tend to leak (any and all fluids) so most mechanics will throw several BARS Leaks pebbles in there upon re-assembly. As for the crud on the liners where they meet the block - again, not to worry. Whether BARS LEAKS used or not, you'll have that from the dissimilar metals (Iron alloy against aluminum alloy). The main thing is to flush the coolant system every three or four years.

BTW - I find a multi-purpose hand tool like this to be an excellent tool to scraping gasket and sealer products from the aluminum surfaces without causing any damage to the surface itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks ToonRboy

I bought a pack of razor blades and kept changing to a new blade as the old on started to become damaged (which you can see if you hold the blade up and have a good look along the edge).

The black stuff left on the mating surface of the block wont come of. I would have to sand it of and I'm not doing that. Its basically stained the ally. You cant feel it when you run ur fingers along it so it should be fine. There are a few corrosion spots around the water galleries but again there is nothing i can do about that short of having the block machined. I'm sure its nothing new with a V6 head job.
 
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