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Discussion Starter #1
I am in need of an oil change soon before I start my Alfetta for the first time in 40 years, and the Haynes manual says that the recommended oil is 10W/50, but I either can't find it, or it's stupid expensive. Will 10W/40 work instead? Thanks.
 

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15W40 is widely available and you probably do not need anything heavier in upstate NY.
 

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You will want to change oil again shortly if the engine hasn't run in 40 years. I suggest you use Castrol 20-50 for the initial run -in.
 

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I missed the first part about "first time in forty years". With that information, I would suggest first using a conventional 5w-30 engine oil for initial start up. Also, before initial start up, Flush the fuel tank and all fuel hoses, and replace all fuel filters and make sure that the fuel being delivered to the injection pump is clean! Then remove and replace the oil filter on the injection pump. Then remove the barometric capsule on the injection pump and pour a quart of the new 5w-30 through the pump allowing it to drain out of the sump drain. Then use the 5w-30 for initial start up, changing to the Valvoline VR-1 before putting her back into service. Good luck and please posts your results.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I missed the first part about "first time in forty years". With that information, I would suggest first using a conventional 5w-30 engine oil for initial start up. Also, before initial start up, Flush the fuel tank and all fuel hoses, and replace all fuel filters and make sure that the fuel being delivered to the injection pump is clean! Then remove and replace the oil filter on the injection pump. Then remove the barometric capsule on the injection pump and pour a quart of the new 5w-30 through the pump allowing it to drain out of the sump drain. Then use the 5w-30 for initial start up, changing to the Valvoline VR-1 before putting her back into service. Good luck and please posts your results.
Already done most of that, I've got to put the intake manifold back on and put all the hard lines back, and rebuild the original bosch electric pump. After all that is done I can put the fuel system back together, and hopefully it should start. Might be some more things that I forgot about, but those are the important ones
 

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@AlfaTasteless , it seems like you know what you are doing. Maybe add to the list to disable the ignition and fuel system and then crank the engine until you have oil pressure, before starting. If you have the capability, attach a hand held mechanical oil pressure gauge too, to rule out erroneous dash gauge readings.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
@AlfaTasteless , it seems like you know what you are doing.
A majority of the things I know are from doing small things on other cars and from the Haynes manual. The only reason I knew about some of the parts is that I got a bunch of NOS stuff in the hatch of the car when I bought it, so I looked up the part numbers (there was receipts from the dealer as well with part numbers), figured out where they went, and replaced the ones I needed to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I missed the first part about "first time in forty years". With that information, I would suggest first using a conventional 5w-30 engine oil for initial start up. Also, before initial start up, Flush the fuel tank and all fuel hoses, and replace all fuel filters and make sure that the fuel being delivered to the injection pump is clean! Then remove and replace the oil filter on the injection pump. Then remove the barometric capsule on the injection pump and pour a quart of the new 5w-30 through the pump allowing it to drain out of the sump drain. Then use the 5w-30 for initial start up, changing to the Valvoline VR-1 before putting her back into service. Good luck and please posts your results.
I got it running and even idling steady today, there's a post in the Alfetta/GTV6 section of the forum.
 

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Some years ago I read a report of tests of different oils on cam lobe wear on a flat tappet single cylinder engine and Mobil 1 did poorly. I stopped using it after that.
 

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Richard Jemison
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None of the camshaft builders recommend using Synthetics with flat tappet cams. Molecular size and lack of wear/scuffing additives are why.
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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None of the camshaft builders recommend using Synthetics with flat tappet cams. Molecular size and lack of wear/scuffing additives are why.
This is out of date. If people are still recommending this then they don't understand synthetic oil, the definition and formulation of which have changed greatly since the 70s. Honestly the word "synthetic" doesn't really mean much in the context of oil anymore (see the Mobil v. Castrol lawsuit in the 90s and outcomes thereof.)

Mobil1 15W50 is one of the limited number of modern oil that still contains higher levels of ZDDP anti-wear/scuffing additives. All the other Mobil1 street formulations have gone to lower levels, as have most other SN grade oils.
 

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I buy a new pair of cams and the manufacturer and designer both advise against synthetic oil but Tom Gubi says it is Ok. Guess whether I use synthetic.
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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OK BOOMER 😆

Seriously, read up on "synthetic oil." Most of them these days are primarily Group III, rather than PAO. This isn't the 70s anymore, stuff has changed.
 

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You spend too much of your time reading and not enough verifying.
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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"You yunguns and your learnin' books! Get off'n my lawn!"

Look, I worked in the refining biz for three years. Due to a rather famous lawsuit in the late 90s, synthetic means very little in the context of modern oils. It has basically become a marketing term. So when folks start synthetic-vs-non-synthetic debates based on old mechanic's tales from the 1970s when Mobil 1 was the only available stuff (with a rather different formulation than it has now, I might add) I just roll my freakin' eyes.

Case in point: conflating synthetic base stock with "lack of wear/scuffing additives." The two things have absolutely nothing to do with each other. One is an essentially meaningless marketing term, and the other applies to any oil regardless of base stock. Someone says that, I know they don't know what they're talking about.

Performance numbers and additive package are way more important than base stock. Look at the data sheet: viscosity, viscosity index, ZDDP level, pour point, etc. That's the important stuff, not whether the bottle says "synthetic" or not.
 
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