1995 LS door check strap

4063 Views 23 Replies 5 Participants Last post by ChazzyD, Mar 3, 2008

goats

Discussion Starter · Sep 25, 2007

Fellows
A couple questions on the door check strap, ref page 55-5 of the manual

1. DO all 4 doors share the same strap and dowel pin number? If yes, what is the number? If no, whats the correct part number for the driver door check strap and dowel pin??

2. Any special tricks on installing this? The manual explaation looks simple enough

3. Any idea price and availabiluty for this little gem? Mine is worn out!

thanks cats

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Alfissimo Int.

· #2 · Sep 25, 2007 (Edited)

goats said:
Fellows
A couple questions on the door check strap, ref page 55-5 of the manual

1. DO all 4 doors share the same strap and dowel pin number? If yes, what is the number? If no, whats the correct part number for the driver door check strap and dowel pin??

2. Any special tricks on installing this? The manual explaation looks simple enough

3. Any idea price and availabiluty for this little gem? Mine is worn out!

thanks cats

I have had some in-stock but have sold out, they are no problem to get.
They are the same on front and rear.
I do have the door strap pins. What makes you think you need new ones?
Are they popping?
If they are You need to stick an tapered dowel in the top of the pin to stretch it. It will then stop popping and creaking!

Door check: 60508531 : $21.50 each
PIN: 82482221 $3.50 each

Jason

Alfisto Steve

· #3 · Sep 25, 2007 (Edited)

2

There are about 3 part numbers for front door stops 60508531 and 60585698 for 12v and 60595489 for 24v but I think any will work but later ones use larger diameter bolts.

I have some in stock but I don't remember which part number I have. I will check and see later today if I get a chance.

You have to remove lower door panel to change it out if they are bad.

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ChazzyD

· #4 · Sep 25, 2007 (Edited)

A lot of the popping and creaking, like Jason says, comes from too much play at the pin. The bracket with the roll pin in it wears out, making the hole larger anfd the action of the check strap is non-linear. It pulls hard and then less hard causing a POP noise at the pin. New check straps are nice though and they look much better than an old one. I have only had to replace the two front ones so far. The best part is that they are inexpensive compared to other cars.

I once went to Toyota to buy one of there crummy check straps and they wanted $75! For a Tercel!
Charles

Alfissimo Int.

· #5 · Sep 25, 2007

60595489 Front 24V D/C is N/A
60585698 Rear 24V d/C is available.
60508531 F/R 12V D/C is available We use this for both models now

all will work and use the same size bolts to my memory! I just looked at the LS doors I have and 12V and they are the same. I will pull both to verify! but fairly certain they are the same. I just think the 24V are a bit beefer for the heavier doors.

I have plenty of used ones.

Jason

goats

Discussion Starter · #6 · Sep 25, 2007

Whats the diff?

Between the 2 numbers for the LS?

I have some used ones too on my bent up LS-- think I will try to use one from that car, trouble is, the car was t-boned on the drivers side smashing both front and rear driver door--- havent pry barred open the door yet to see if the strap is still usable-- figured I try for a new one since its likely that the front doors (at least) on most cars prolly have pretty worn straps--

Chaz got it right-- mine got worn and the hole elongated in the lever arm-- I guess worst comes to worst is to drill it out and insert a bushing--- to get the hole back to round with correct diameter----my pin acually broke from fatigue and for temp I just put a screw in there to hold it--- guess I'll have to go get a strap from the bent up car and see if its gonna work---

thanks all

bob

Alfisto Steve

· #7 · Sep 25, 2007

goats said:
Between the 2 numbers for the LS?

I have some used ones too on my bent up LS-- think I will try to use one from that car, trouble is, the car was t-boned on the drivers side smashing both front and rear driver door--- havent pry barred open the door yet to see if the strap is still usable-- figured I try for a new one since its likely that the front doors (at least) on most cars prolly have pretty worn straps--

Chaz got it right-- mine got worn and the hole elongated in the lever arm-- I guess worst comes to worst is to drill it out and insert a bushing--- to get the hole back to round with correct diameter----my pin acually broke from fatigue and for temp I just put a screw in there to hold it--- guess I'll have to go get a strap from the bent up car and see if its gonna work---

thanks all

bob

You can use ones from other side of wrecked car as they are the same.

Alfissimo Int.

· #8 · Sep 25, 2007 (Edited)

3

goats said:
Between the 2 numbers for the LS?

I have some used ones too on my bent up LS-- think I will try to use one from that car, trouble is, the car was t-boned on the drivers side smashing both front and rear driver door--- havent pry barred open the door yet to see if the strap is still usable-- figured I try for a new one since its likely that the front doors (at least) on most cars prolly have pretty worn straps--

Chaz got it right-- mine got worn and the hole elongated in the lever arm-- I guess worst comes to worst is to drill it out and insert a bushing--- to get the hole back to round with correct diameter----my pin acually broke from fatigue and for temp I just put a screw in there to hold it--- guess I'll have to go get a strap from the bent up car and see if its gonna work---

thanks all

bob

They are all the same! You can order the 12V version and it will work.

Pictures of front D/C which are the same all the way around from a 24V and 12V.
Be aware 1 of the arms is one notch in more than the other, they are both identical in length and design.

Jason

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goats

Discussion Starter · #9 · Sep 26, 2007

well, another learning lesson!!

I spent about 2 hours tonight pulling the door panel, screwing around with the strap, etc etc. I pulled a strap off the bent up car, which was OK shape. After pulling the panel off, (which I always dislike), I pulled the old strap off. Basically,no difference on the look of the straps-- so I put the old one back on, and put everything back together. I put a new (used) pin as the old one was broken-- well, guess what?

The new pin fixed the whole problem. I had (doofus me) put a pin guage in the hole, and still heard the pop/click. I ASSUMED that the strap mechanism was worn -- but it wasn't.

Bottom line, its my same old story-- goats usually assumes the complicated fix rather than the simple one. This was a simple one-- Had I put the 'new' pin in right away, I woulda saved myself 2 hours. C'mon goats--- Occams Razor Rules!!!!!

Alfissimo Int.

· #10 · Sep 26, 2007

goats said:
I spent about 2 hours tonight pulling the door panel, screwing around with the strap, etc etc. I pulled a strap off the bent up car, which was OK shape. After pulling the panel off, (which I always dislike), I pulled the old strap off. Basically,no difference on the look of the straps-- so I put the old one back on, and put everything back together. I put a new (used) pin as the old one was broken-- well, guess what?

The new pin fixed the whole problem. I had (doofus me) put a pin guage in the hole, and still heard the pop/click. I ASSUMED that the strap mechanism was worn -- but it wasn't.

Bottom line, its my same old story-- goats usually assumes the complicated fix rather than the simple one. This was a simple one-- Had I put the 'new' pin in right away, I woulda saved myself 2 hours. C'mon goats--- Occams Razor Rules!!!!!

LOL! I did the same thing many years ago. Pulled it all out, replaced the door check and the thing still popped! *%#@&*!! I said. This is why I mentioned the pin, I know it's stupid and simple. But 98% of the the time it is the pin. Funny thing is that all my doors started doing it and I just replaced all the door pins about a month ago. Although all new pins some do need to be spread a bit to get them nice and tight. Then they work well.
If you would have just listened to me Goats!

"What makes you think you need new ones?
Are they popping?
If they are You need to stick an tapered dowel in the top of the pin to stretch it. It will then stop popping and creaking!"

Well anyways, at least you nailed it.

Ciao!
Jason

goats

Discussion Starter · #11 · Sep 26, 2007

yeah

on this one, the pin was actually fatigue fractured-- so the ole dowel trick might not have fixed it-- but it might have too! And, to add insult to injury, I have 1/8 and 3/16 dowel rod here (hardwood) that I could have EASILY spun down to fit snugly. The killer is , I had fooled myself== the pin gauge I put it was a semi-snug fit, and I still had the pop. What I now realize is that the dowel pin, as it is made, will conform to the minor out-of-roundness that was contributing to the pop! Even a small (<0.010) gap will give off the loud pop--- I know that but was convinced in my own mind that the doggone hole was 'too out of round' but its measured eccentricty was about 0.02cm -- not much at all----

So for all you cats, next time you get the pop/creak, take out your old dowel pin and measure the eccentricity of the strap hole-- if its small (ie the hole doesnt look elongated) get yerself a new dowel pin and install it!!
Geez I can be dumb sometimes--
AGHRHHH! The pirate in me is coming out! Avast Goats!

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Alfissimo Int.

· #12 · Sep 26, 2007

goats said:
Geez I can be dumb sometimes--
AGHRHHH! The pirate in me is coming out! Avast Goats!

Oh talk about being dumb I spent so much time and effort trying to fix the pop, I grease all the Door check straps with numerous products even wax! Nothing worked. So I replaced the **** D/C strap and the f-er still popped. So I finally a year later after saying the hell with it pulled the pin studied it for a bit and decided to pull out the old and replace with the new. Old one broke in half on the way out. Put the new one in and low and behold the thing stopped popping, but not entirely. So I investigated some more and realized I had a worn door hinge pin as well. Door was sagging just slightly. Replaced that adjusted door and then the door was perfect. No more popping, sloppy door, creaking or anything. Just a nice solid door closing.

So there is some more advice which may help some other popping doors out there, I know they are out there.

Ciao!
Jason

MrT

· #13 · Feb 29, 2008

Looking for details on door sag fix

'Splain this thing to me just a bit more. I'm dense. My '91L driver's door is sagging and this is making difficulty in closure _and_ the top corner of the door is clipping the center doorpost and flaking the paint off. I'd _love_ to fix this. Any more detailed schematics, etc?

Michael

goats

Discussion Starter · #14 · Feb 29, 2008

Door sag different than click-pop !

If the door is sagging, you either have worn hinges, an alignment issue, or both! In my case the door was lined up great, but upon open/close a loud click/pop was heard-- the sound of the pin in the door check strap (not the hinge pin mind you) was cracked.

Mr T my fine friend sounds like you are due for a hinge rebuild!

MrT

· #15 · Feb 29, 2008

Do you mean I'll have to figure it all out by myself? I certainly have some spare car parts around, but I'd vaguely recalled someone posting a note saying the 164 doors had one or two adjustment points, and sags could be handled without pulling the replacing the hinges. I'm still hoping it's easy.

Michael

ChazzyD

· #16 · Feb 29, 2008 (Edited)

My driver door was sagging, and I was able to adjust it at the hinge pin. Doesn't sound plausible at first does it? Well it is true. Just loosen the small (10mm?) bolt at the opposite end of the C clip (on the bottom of the top hinge and on the top of the bottom hinge). Now IF your hinges are not rusted, you can now lift the door up. The hinge pin is actually a cone shaped, male/female interface and will allow adjustment. Doesn't sound right, but that is how they are made and it works very well. When you get the door adjusted where you want it, tighten the small bolts. It fixed mine perfectly and I've had no more trouble. Just don't let the small bolts loosen and your hinges will stay in adjustment, they start sagging when the two bolts (one at each hinge) allow the adjustment to slip over time.
Charles

ChazzyD

· #17 · Feb 29, 2008 (Edited)

I thought I needed new hinges and tracked down a used set. When I figured out how they worked with them in my hand, I was able to adjust mine, and it saved me A LOT of work. The pins themselves do not really come out easily, even if you remove the C clip, I tried. Just adjust them the way I described, it works, if the male/female cones are not rusted together. If they are, you will have a hard time getting them to adjust. Maybe hit them with some PB blaster if you live in a rust prone part of the country and try again later, if you have trouble.
Charles

MrT

· #18 · Feb 29, 2008

This was a Florida car (Fred DiMatteo's old 164) and the workings are pretty pristine. The door sag just became noticeable this winter. I'd like to fix it easily, as Charles did. I'll try to understand what you're saying, Charles. I _really_ appreciate your chiming in. I suspect your comment was the one I vaguely remembered, but it didn't show up in my alfabb search.

Michael

ChazzyD

· #19 · Feb 29, 2008 (Edited)

Found the old image so you can see what I'm talking about. When you loosen the single bolt (not in the pic) they become very adjustable. My door hinges went from feeling worn out to feeling good as new when you open the door.
Charles

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MrT

· #20 · Feb 29, 2008

very helpful, Charles. Thanks.

Michael

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