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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
I was hoping to find anyone who had experience pulling trouble codes from a 1993 Spider with OBD1. The check engine light comes on when the engine reaches operating temprature. Also, the RPM's go up and down at idle. Other than that the car runs fine. Very confusing.

Thanks,
Paul M.
 

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I'll just pilage the post where Gubi pilaged my post:D

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You will need to pull the code from the ECU and reply back. Here is how you pull the code. It is flashed through the check engine light through a series of long and short flashes. Here is how to pull the code:

1. Turn the ignition key to the "on position" so that all the lights light up on the dash. Do not start the engine nor have it running.
2. Remove the access panel from your carpeted rear deck behind the passenger seat.
3. Locate the ECU button. There is a button on the outside of the steel box that the ECU sits in. The button faces the passenger side "b" pillar, the passenger side rear speaker, and seat belt retractor. Note that you will have to reach around to the outside of the steel box that the ECU sits in so have long flexible fingers or skinny ones that can fit between the carpeted deck and the top of the steel box.
4. Depress and hold the ECU button for 5 secs.
5. Release the button once the check engine light goes off.
6. The Check Engine light will flash the code.
7. Once the code is flashed (and it will repeat) you can simply turn the ignition key to the off position.

Here is how to read the code:
The check engine light flashes the code by long and short flashes.

1. The check engine light does a long flash followed by a long delay to say "here comes the code"
2. Then the individual numbers will be flashed by short flashes with a long delay between each seperate number.
3. The error code is a 4 digit code beginning in the number 1.
4. Code repeats over and over.
Here is an example:

F=Long flash
f=short flash
D=long delay
d=short delay

Error code 1234 1234

F........D.......f..D........f..d..f..D.......f..d ..f..d..f..D..........f..d..f..d..f..d..f..D...... .......F........D.......f..D........f..d..f..D.... ...f..d..f..d..f..D..........f..d..f..d..f..d..f.. D.............

So this would be read: Code 1234 Code 1234
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I'll add the following: you most likely have multiple codes stored...one for every time the light has come on. These may be the same code over and over again or they may vary. It's a good idea to go through them all and then clear the computer.

After each code flashes, you hold down the button for a couple of seconds and then release it...it will then start flashing the next code. Once you have gone through all the codes, the computer will flash 4-4-4-4. At this point you can clear the codes by holding down the button for a full ten seconds (make sure you wrote down all the other numbers first). It may take a while to get through all the codes, so be patient.

Post the codes you get here and it may give us some idea of what the problem is.
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Courtesy of John M and Gubi:D
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the Quick Response

Thanks for the great information. I'm going to try it tommorrow and pull the code when I get to work. I work for ALLDATA and we just received some information so our research library can support Alfa. I'm hoping we will have the chart.

Thanks again and I will let you know what I find,
Paul A. Marshall
 

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Cardisc has the codes...post up the code and one of us will follow up with the corresponding definition and diagnosis steps.

Best Regards,
John M
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It's a P1224...

Finally had a chance to get to it. It flashes a P1224 over and over again. Since the light only comes on at running temrature, I was thinking an O2 sensor. The car has sat most of it's life (only has 25K miles) and that seems to kill the sensors. What do you think?

Thanks again for the help,
Paul A. Marshall
 

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Yep...O2 sensor.

You can do the normal checks to confirm not a related problem.

Make sure the O2 sensor heater wires are not melted on the exhaust. This is a three wire system. Two heater, one signal. If the heater wires OK...then proceed with DVM measurement of the signal. Should see between .1 and 1V Should bounce around. Shouldn't exceed those limits. So if its just sitting on one reading or exceeding the limits....get ready to change that sensor. Wiring is up on the firewall just inboard of the brake booster.

Also make sure no air leaks between the AFM and the intake.

Best Regards,
John M
 

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Need help reset check engine light

This thread has been instructive to me (trying to reset my check engine light). Where do we find the code meanings? IE what does 1234 mean? Thanks. '90 S3 with S4 engine.
 

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I have a 1991 S4 and the location of the ECU button is different from the one described earlier in this post. On my car there is a red button which faces the driver's side. By pressing this button I can read the codes as described on the post. What I have not been able to do is reset the check engine light. I've tried leaving the button pressed for 10 seconds; then 30 seconds ... check engine light will not go off.

Any ideas what I could be doing wrong?

Ivan
 

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Ivan - I'm not sure the Check Engine light will go off if the problem is still present that caused the warning light in the first place. I think that's what you're seeing.

I'm not sure how to delete the light unless you unhook the ground to the battery for a minute or so. Of course, you'll lose all your codes too. But if you have them, then you're good.

And then re-hooking up the battery, if the light comes on again, you'll know some problem remains that requires further investigation.
 

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Hello John M and Gubi

I have a 1990 Graduate. The number 8 fuse keeps blowing when the engine idylls up to 175 degrees (according to the temperature gauge), then the battery light comes on, the engine runs slightly rough for a couple of seconds, the fuse blows, the engine rpm increases for a few seconds, all the instruments in the cluster no longer function. I retrieved the error code from the Motronic ECU which is 1265. What would you recommend I do next? ((By the way, I located the ground wire junction for the cluster instruments (ground from pin D-4 on the cluster to a screw connection behind the driver seat or left rear compartment) and cleaned the connections and put dielectric grease on it); no change in the problem))

Please help me if you can.

Thanks,

Spud
 

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Generally it's a good idea to start a separate thread when you have a new problem.

Anyway, the Motronic code is incidental, I think. I suspect what's happening is you've got a short on the fuse #8 circuit. When that happens it dumps a lot of power which causes the electrical problems (battery light, rough running) until the fuse blows.

If it happens consistently right when the engine warms up that points to a link to the cooling fans, and in fact fuse #8 powers the cooling fan relay. My first recommendation would be to check that relay: if the relay coil is shorted then as soon as the fan switch trips to turn on the fans you're going to have a dead short and it'll blow fuse 8.

The cooling fan relay is top row in the fusebox, second from the left (with a 30A fuse in it). Start by pulling that and measuring resistance between terminals 84 & 85: should be 50-100 ohms. Significantly less than that and you've got a bad relay. A big clue will be if the relay looks melted at all.
 
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