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Discussion Starter #22
That's a W3W bulb. It uses the same socket as W5W, T10, 194, and 168 bulbs. Try doing a search using those terms, you'll likely find something that you can modify to work.

This looks sorta close:

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Tom,
I just tested all power going to the fuse box, it looks like there is no power going to fuses 13 and 14. All fuses still look good and all connections going to the fuse box are, still, no instrument lights are working. I am still in the process of sourcing the plastic assembly for the running lights to see as close to oem I can get. I am still on a mission to find connector G84B!
-Angelo C
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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13 & 14 are the high beams. They’ll only have power with the lights on and the headlight switch pushed down to turn on the highs.
 

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these two 15 pin connectors should be G84a and G84b
you might be able to get at them by removing the left side panel only as I have done here
G84a and G84b connectors behind centre console.jpg

remember that on some S4 (mine for instance) the l & r console side panels were joined together with a metal brace, so check that first ....or the side panel will not come off...I have managed to released that brace, the nut on the left side, by going in through the radio slot (it was tight fit but it was ok)...the carpeted side panel is also held by a metal tab sticking out thru the carpet on the trans tunnel towards the front of the car (just visible in the above photo, bottom left corner) into which a corresponding metal tab on the side panel slips into.

G84 a b.jpg

(to be honest though unless you were really messing about wildly in that area, I can't see one of those wires being pulled out....they are good tight connections)
 

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Discussion Starter #25
these two 15 pin connectors should be G84a and G84b
you might be able to get at them by removing the left side panel only as I have done here
View attachment 1667596

remember that on some S4 (mine for instance) the l & r console side panels were joined together with a metal brace, so check that first ....or the side panel will not come off...I have managed to released that brace, the nut on the left side, by going in through the radio slot (it was tight fit but it was ok)...the carpeted side panel is also held by a metal tab sticking out thru the carpet on the trans tunnel towards the front of the car (just visible in the above photo, bottom left corner) into which a corresponding metal tab on the side panel slips into.

View attachment 1667597

(to be honest though unless you were really messing about wildly in that area, I can't see one of those wires being pulled out....they are good tight connections)
Dom,

So I am back after spending some time around the car. I was able to get all the parking lights going again. Just have to order some new sockets for the bulbs or solder they old ones that I broke. Still, no luck when it comes to the instrument and interior lights. I was able to get the passenger window working again and the window motor seems to be healthy. I picked up a test light and have been spending a lot of time testing different connectors all around the car as well as cleaning up all the recommended grounds along with others I have come across. I am getting power to the light dimmer switch. Should I test a relay? If so which one? I do not think the bulbs popped because there is definitely no power going to them. I have started tracing wires back from the clock, I know it is supposed to light up when running/parking lights are on. Is it the white/black wire that brings power to the lights on the clock?

Thank you,
-Angelo C
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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No, the yellow wire brings power to the clock light. Did you get the color wiring diagram I PM'd you? That shows it: it runs from the dimmer but not through the dimmer, if you see what I mean.

If you're getting power at yellow at the dimmer, see if you're getting power at yellow at the clock, and also see if the black wire at the clock has good connection to ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
No, the yellow wire brings power to the clock light. Did you get the color wiring diagram I PM'd you? That shows it: it runs from the dimmer but not through the dimmer, if you see what I mean.

If you're getting power at yellow at the dimmer, see if you're getting power at yellow at the clock, and also see if the black wire at the clock has good connection to ground.
I only have a white/black, red and a black going to clock. Is a wire missing? And yes but its seems as if a lot of stuff doesn't match up on the wiring schematic.
1667882
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Heh, yeah...remember when I said the wiring diagrams weren't very accurate? 😆

Looks like Papajam had an error: I pulled up my official Alfa diagrams and the wire from the dimmer to the clock should indeed be white/black. Red is always-on power and black is ground. You are not missing a wire.

So see if you have good voltage at the white/black output at the rheostat, then see if you have power at the white/black at the clock, power on the red, and good ground on the black.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Heh, yeah...remember when I said the wiring diagrams weren't very accurate? 😆

Looks like Papajam had an error: I pulled up my official Alfa diagrams and the wire from the dimmer to the clock should indeed be white/black. Red is always-on power and black is ground. You are not missing a wire.

So see if you have good voltage at the white/black output at the rheostat, then see if you have power at the white/black at the clock, power on the red, and a good ground on the black.
Hey Tom,

I have good power from the red wire. No power from the white/black even when I turn the lights on. I'm not sure how to test a ground but I cleaned it up so I am guessing it is good. I tested the lights that illuminate the climate control plastic plate and there is no power going to those led bulbs either. Could it be the switch itself? I also noticed when testing the fuses my 6, 7, and 8 fuses get no power whatsoever. And the connections in the back are snug.

Thanks,
-Angelo
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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6-8 are switched power and only get power when the key is turned on.

So you have power on the white/black at the rheostat but no power on the white/black at the clock? That would be very odd...

Are you sure this car isn't possessed? 😆 You may need a priest or the Scooby-Doo gang.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
6-8 are switched power and only get power when the key is turned on.

So you have power on the white/black at the rheostat but no power on the white/black at the clock? That would be very odd...

Are you sure this car isn't possessed? 😆 You may need a priest or the Scooby-Doo gang.
Good morning Tom,

Sorry, I should have been more specific. I only have the constant power going to the rheostat light dimmer. It is a yellow wire for my car. Can you think of any specific connections in the rear of the fusebox I should check? Should I disconnect the entire fuse box and clean it up? I'm lost at this point.

Thanks,
-Angelo
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I was also thinking if the actual switch (next to blinker stalk) could be the issue? I hope not as they are kinda pricey,
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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It doesn't sound like it. When you turn the parking lights on, the switch sends power to fuses 9 & 10. That's happening and your parking lights are coming on, so I doubt the switch is your problem.

Instrument light power goes from fuse 10 to the rheostat (yellow wire) then comes out of the rheostat (white/black wires). Along the way it also lights the parking light light in the cluster: is that coming on when you turn on the lights?

At the rheostat, if you're getting power in on yellow but no power out on white/black either the rheostat is bad or you've got a bad ground on the black wire. But if you already tried to direct connect yellow to white/black and the instrument lights still didn't work then that eliminates both of those and I'm kinda stumped, sorry.

You can check ground by measuring resistance between the black wire and the body of the car, BTW. Should be very close to zero.
 

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and you are sure you tried jumping the dimmer (rheostat) switch correctly?
by jumping the connector between the double yellow and white/black
dimmer6.JPG

this is a snippet from a Papajam posting, where someone had a similar problem with dash lights on an S3....unfortunately the person Jim was trying to help did not bother to update the thread!
really annoying and shows the importance of updating threads:(

"....The wiring diagram shows 4 wires and 3 terminals on the rheostat; two yellow wires (input) go to one terminal - one from fuse #10 and the other to the clock. The black wire goes to ground. The white/black stripe output wire goes to the lighter light, rear defog switch light and most important, to terminal D6 at the dashboard connector to power the 7 dashlights. Try jumping the yellow and white/black wires at the rheostat. If the lights work, the rheostat or rheostat ground are NG. If the lights still don't work, the problem could be the D6 connector, broken foil on the dash circuit board, 7 burned out bulbs or the dash isn't properly grounded thru dash connector D4 (black wire)."

when he writes "D4" etc, he means pin 4 on Connector D
Connector D, you will find that somewhere up by the steering column, as it exits the Monopod cluster.
monopod wiring loom.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Okay! I just removed every connecter from the back of the fuse box and cleaned up every connection. I tried the interior lights again with the light dimmer control attached and no luck. However, I tried the jumper technique again and I do indeed get green lights to the speedo, fuel gauge, temp gauge, tach, clock, window controls, cigarette lighter, and hazard light switch! Still no power to the leds that illuminate the climate controls, oil pressure meter, battery meter, no power to the engine lights or parking brake, or the radio. But I am getting somewhere so I gotta keep going! Any other suggestions? Thank you everyone
 

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well that is some success:)

what I would do is check whether the rheostat or the ground is bad by simply sticking a separate length of wire, one end grounded somewhere solid, to the black position of the 3 pin connector (switch connected)
if the rheostat now works, the ground was bad.
if not, your switch is bad.
the switch is a small circuit board, might be repairable, the front cover just clips off - otherwise leave it jumped (it is a bit gimmicky anyway, because even on full the lights are plain useless!)
dimmer.jpg


that you neither get illumination nor functioning oil pressure/battery charge/check engine etc is because the top section of your instruments is a separate unit...the wires for this all run through that black connector C (see my harness photo above) and connect at the cluster via the "clear" plastic connector, top position, at the back.
Have you had the instruments out lately and maybe not connected that clear plug back properly?

iow you need to focus on that upper PC board or the harness thereto
upper cluster.jpg

the climate control: does the switch actually work the AC blower? so it is only the switch illumination not working?...maybe check those little bulbs.
when you say "radio" I presume you mean the radio does not work at all (as opposed to the radio 'illumination' does not work).....that too will be a separate problem.
 
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