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Discussion Starter #1
I started to remove the gear box in my 91 for a possible faulty main shaft bearing. The procedure seems do able except I've to come to the manual directing to remove the rear exhaust manifold. Someone please tell me I am reading this wrong or it's a misprint. This looks painful so I've been working around it but if it has to be done so be it.

I've read posts where the steps to tackle this are here, I just am not able to find them.

Thanks for any input or comments.
 

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The killer bolt you need to remove is the top starter bolt, which is hidden by starter heat shield and exhaust manifold.
It is possible to get the bolt out by going behind heat shield and manifold. Not easy to do. Many ways to tackle it. One way is to remove oil filter and go in from right side with 13mm socket and long extensions after you remove right front wheel. It is possible to attack the bolt from under the car using shorter extension set up be still going in between engine block and top of starter but still behind heat shield.
I would suggest once you have tranny out you still pull starter out and have it rebuilt.
You will have to pull out intermediate axle and right axle before you try to reinstall tranny more on why later.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you VERY much for all the info Steve. I thought the socket and extension tie is pretty slick!
 

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I did not have to remove the rear exhaust manifold to do that job.
Charles
 

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Discussion Starter #6
After almost removing the oil pan, I've decided to pull the motor. I,m half way there.

It seems to make sense to work like a human with the engine out. The engine won't be rebuilt but all areas that are leaking oil will be fixed.Coolant lines, fuel lines gear box bearing. I saw at least one brake line that needs to be replaced. Timing belt of course.

I didn't want to get this involved but it is kinda fun.

Appreciate all the tips provided here.
 

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Pulling the engine seems a little extreme but, if you can do it, is definitely a great way to get better access to not just the engine but everything in that bay, steering rack included.
 

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You will be glad once you get access to all the little things that can be done so much easier once the engine is out. I went the same route at one time and did the shifter bushing, fuel hoses in the back of the engine bay, etc. Even working on the heater core or blower motor stuff is a lot easier to work on with the engine out, of course the steering rack job is now easier with the engine out as well. Makes for a very big project, but for a really good 164 once the various things are all done.
Charles
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I was going to ask the board if pulling the engine was worth the effort but thought since I have plenty of time, why not. I,m not looking for a restoration just a safe, reliable 164. It seems every where I look some thing needs attention. Flex bellows torn , cat mounts replacement, cv boots the list goes on.

I,ve never seen a 164 on the road or have never noticed it. It would be a shame to let it go . Does it make sense dollars and cents? Allora .
 

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They are worth fixing up and enjoying even if it doesn't make dollars and sense to most people they are not into Alfas. Makes total sense to those that have enjoyed driving them for many years. They are a relative bargain even, they at least make a good "Hobby" car, though so many here have used them as daily drivers for many years now and brittle at the idea of that. I used mine really for both purposes.

BTW, I have a spare good axle shaft (fits both sides on a manual) and a couple unknown condition manual transmissions laying around if you are interested, as well as a several other smaller items, some new, some used. I collected 164 items for many years during my time with my 164.
Charles
 

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While the engine is out, I would do a cylinder head re-torque procedure. You will likely find the heads need a fresh snug-down and the exhaust valves will need adjusted, but do check them all. Easy enough to do with the engine out. Just will take some extra time to do. The list is quite long of "things to do" with an engine out.
Charles
 

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Charles, would you do a retorque for a 24v head too? I would like to on mine if can understand how to.
NO NO NO do not try this at home or shop on 24v as head torque process on 24v very different from 12v process. I'll leave it at that read the shop manual and you will see why.
 

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Yup. Watched Carlo do the heads on a Ferrari engine, same more complicated method. He had a cool dial indicator for use with his torque wrench.
 
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