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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi All, i have just purchased a nice 2.0 spider 1990, it was garage stored for the last 8 years and not started, so far i have removed the spark plugs and determined the engine is free, so i cleaned the plugs, put in some fresh petrol but determined No Spark And no fuel delivery, all connections around ecu look good and fuses are ok, any ideas/advice would be greatfully recieved
thanks in advance..Andy
Just to add i have 12V at coil when ignition switched on
 

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Welcome! We do have one important rule and it regards pictures. (They are required.) Photos of your Spider are acceptable. If there is a pretty female included even better...

The Bosch EFI systems are sensitive to poor electrical grounds and low voltage. Measure what the system reads during cranking. Don't assume it is OK because it sounds like it is cranking with good speed - connect a voltmeter to the battery and see what it reads during cranking. Less than ~ 10.5V means the computer won't wake up to send the make spark/squirt fuel signals. Cleaning/securing all electrical connections with special attention to grounds (typically black wires) is time well spent.

Do you know if the car was prepped for extended storage? The fuel injectors could get clogged if the fuel wasn't prepped for storage. There isn't really any effective way to run anything through them while installed. I think it'd be a good idea to remove them for service. There are places that will clean them in an ultrasonic solvent bath and test them for flow & leaking. OK injectors is run by BB member Greg Gordon.

If system voltage is good and grounds clean & tight, try connecting your volt meter to the fuel pump's electrical connectors. It should show near battery voltage during cranking & running. The fuel pumps (there are two - the main high pressure pump under the car and an in-tank pump in the fuel tank) may have suffered from the lengthy period of disuse. And the fuel filter likely needs replacement (under the car near the main fuel pump).
 

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Fuel Relay?

I had similar symptoms in a 1990 Veloce (although there were intermittent in my car, and it hadn't been sitting).

The cause was a failed fuel relay (sorry, I don't remember the part no. off-hand but it was a $15 part, as I recall).

It's located in with the ECU under the parcel shelf.

--brendan
 

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Since you have voltage at the coil but no spark, you might check the two flywheel sensors. The test procedure is in section 2.2 of the "L-jetronic Spider Diagnosis" that is accessible through the link in Eric's (gnhl's) signature block. If either of these have failed, you won't get a spark. I had one go out a couple months ago. It's simple to diagnose and simple to fix, if that's the problem.
 

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You get no spark and no fuel?
Check inside the distributor cap that the rotor and cap is OK (there is nothing else in there to check!), just make sure all is clean, no cracks and that the centre carbon spring pin inside the cap is sticking out so as to make contact with the top of rotor. I once found a cracked to pieces rotor, as a PO had tried to remove this (it is glued on!) with pliers and gave up, but hadn't noticed he had cracked the darned thing! When you remove it you have to destroy it then glue a new one back on, or not glue it, as many don't feel the need...just what the heck were Alfa thinking at the time?:(
Disconnect battery and wires from the coil-then test primary resistance with Ohmmeter (2 small + and - connectors either side of coil), generally 0.5-2,0 Ohms - then test secondary resistance from centre of coil to +ve connection of coil (anywhere from 6kOhms to 15kOhm. (sorry my manual doesn't list the exact coil readings)
Crank Sensor: AlfistoSteve on here once posted the test parameter for the Motronic single crank sensor.Test between center pin and one outside pin, you should get a reading of 600 Ohms (or 0,6kOhms). The other outside pin to center pin should give no reading. Always test the pins on the sensor side of the block connector (front left of car near the windscreen washer filler somewhere, never the wire harness side as stated correctly in the Ljet diagnosis link above.
Check the sensor is tight and hasn't worked loose - degrease it. The manual calls for a 0,5 to1,5mm gap between sensor and toothed wheel...but if it is tight and working don't remove it!
I would try to get a spark first then move onto the fuel non delivery problem!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Still no start

Hi all, i still have a no go spider, so far i have cleaned and checked all electrical grounds, fuses etc, i have ordered a new crank sensor which arrives at the end of the week, one thing i have checked is the fuel pump relay at terminal 30 (green black wire) has 12v at key on position but when cranking terminal 87 only has 0.072v, could this still point to a faulty crank sensor ??, the positive/negative side of coil has 12v but no spark,any help greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

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was the crank sensor bad, was that the reason for ordering as new one?
Battery has to be spot on for the Motronic to kick in - otherwise you will be flogging a dead horse - don't just go by 12v at the battery, you need to check the cranking voltage (easiest way is to borrow a new battery for a test!) as GHNL says less than 10,5v cranking and you will get nowhere, so put a voltmeter across the battery and get a mate (! as in a friend - Brit speak!) to crank the starter over and see what it reads
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hi spiderserie4 Thanks for reply, i got a new battery, also when cranking there is 11.7 volts at terminals, i tested the sensor with a reading of 540 ohms,(good test) but was advised to change it, I have also swapped the relays around and got same results. Thanks
 
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