1990 Graduate Interior Project
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Yup, it's one of those straight bulbs with the little nubbins on the side that pushes in and twist locks. The spring tab looking bit (doesn't appear to be present in your photo) gets shoved down into the slot in the mount and acts as ground while the nubbins contact the hot side via the metal spring loaded liner in the mount proper.
It's tied into the curtesy light timer circut so it comes on when the timer is active or the door is open.
It's tied into the curtesy light timer circut so it comes on when the timer is active or the door is open.
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OK, lesse if these came out worth a crap.
1) the tab that acts as ground for the box light
2) the tab being held in its operating position
3) fusebox as installed and in stored postion
4) fusebox open with light and fuse cover lense in place
5) fusebox open with light and fuse cover lense removed
Ignore the relay to the right (it's not part of the regular circutry but associated with the extra fuse box seen by the steering column and is stuck there with velcro) and the little swtich to the right of the bulb (again, velcro'd in and a temporary solution until I get a new curtesy light timer)
1) the tab that acts as ground for the box light
2) the tab being held in its operating position
3) fusebox as installed and in stored postion
4) fusebox open with light and fuse cover lense in place
5) fusebox open with light and fuse cover lense removed
Ignore the relay to the right (it's not part of the regular circutry but associated with the extra fuse box seen by the steering column and is stuck there with velcro) and the little swtich to the right of the bulb (again, velcro'd in and a temporary solution until I get a new curtesy light timer)
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I just checked the picture on my car and the metal strip is missing as well as the rivet that is at the 11:00 position about your bulb that (I guess) holds the ribbon metal contact. It looks that like it was never there as there is no indentation in the plastic indicating a rivet at a previous point in time. I also note from your picture why you don't need the clip handle that hinges mine back up horizontal with the fuses and relays facing down. Yours has a cover that attaches where my clip handle attached. Your box remains vertical with the cover comes up over it and securing at the top. Cool thing that the rest of the fusebox was fit, form, and function for both of us and that we each got what we needed from it. Now I next checked my owner's manual to see if it said anything about the fuse box bulb and all it said was: "For lighting, use the courtesy light located near the fusebox." So on mine, when the fusebox is hinged down vertical its right under one of the courtesy lights. Interesting, mine was not supposed to have the bulb! I think that fuesbox I sent you came out of an '88. I wonder when they discountinued the fuse box mounted bulb?
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I dunno, but it might be amusing to find out. My diagrams here are for 86 and supposedly up (though papajam has mentioned that there was a seperate diagram alltogether for the 86 or 87, then a different one yet for those beyond so what I have may not be totally relevant)
As you've got the actual socket there and the timer, you likely could get creative and modify your stuff to have the little light, but as your curtesy light is right there to begin with, it would likely be more novelty that useful item. On mine, it's really a sort of neccesity as the box is over there <---- on that side of the steering column while the curtesy light is over there ---> on the side of the console.
The clip handle on yours and the cover on mine are what I was reffering to as being a direct swap/exchange for those interested in going from bullet to minifuse. Straight up changeover once the bit that goes through the fusebox proper is removed and exchanged for it's counterpart on whatever way you're swapping.
If your buds in the club want to give it a shot to upgrade, I can't see where they'd run into any real issues other than the tight confines of the work area.
OT tangent:
Did you spot the aluminum diamond plate dead pedal?
As you've got the actual socket there and the timer, you likely could get creative and modify your stuff to have the little light, but as your curtesy light is right there to begin with, it would likely be more novelty that useful item. On mine, it's really a sort of neccesity as the box is over there <---- on that side of the steering column while the curtesy light is over there ---> on the side of the console.
The clip handle on yours and the cover on mine are what I was reffering to as being a direct swap/exchange for those interested in going from bullet to minifuse. Straight up changeover once the bit that goes through the fusebox proper is removed and exchanged for it's counterpart on whatever way you're swapping.
If your buds in the club want to give it a shot to upgrade, I can't see where they'd run into any real issues other than the tight confines of the work area.
OT tangent:
Did you spot the aluminum diamond plate dead pedal?
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Oh, back to the light:
If someone does do it and the light is present in what they're pulling out vs not in what they're putting in, all there is to deal with is that rivet you spotted.
It's that one rivet through the ground strap tying to one connector on the back, so it can be drilled out of the old one and the parts swapped over to the replacement with a pop rivet. (picture of the back of the box in this attachment from another thread)
The internal bits of the light socket (a yoke kind of thing with a spring behind it) just pop out through the front if you lever the sides of the socket out a bit, or conversely, bend the sides of the yoke in to clear the locking edge of the socket moulding.
If someone does do it and the light is present in what they're pulling out vs not in what they're putting in, all there is to deal with is that rivet you spotted.
It's that one rivet through the ground strap tying to one connector on the back, so it can be drilled out of the old one and the parts swapped over to the replacement with a pop rivet. (picture of the back of the box in this attachment from another thread)
The internal bits of the light socket (a yoke kind of thing with a spring behind it) just pop out through the front if you lever the sides of the socket out a bit, or conversely, bend the sides of the yoke in to clear the locking edge of the socket moulding.
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36 Posts
Shift Boot woes
Holy smokes! So here I am cursing my shift boot for not behaving and I go the BB (Old Faithful as she's known around here) and there I see the problem being solved . . . Photos and all! Wow, again I love being a maniac er um I mean enthusiast (my wife not so much). The cars being listed for sale and I couldn't stomach showing it with a bootleg (get it) shift boot. Thanks a million guys especially Kunzman for the explicit detail and motivation to keep fighting the good fight. Someday I'll again own an Alfa . . . if the wife says it's ok.
Holy smokes! So here I am cursing my shift boot for not behaving and I go the BB (Old Faithful as she's known around here) and there I see the problem being solved . . . Photos and all! Wow, again I love being a maniac er um I mean enthusiast (my wife not so much). The cars being listed for sale and I couldn't stomach showing it with a bootleg (get it) shift boot. Thanks a million guys especially Kunzman for the explicit detail and motivation to keep fighting the good fight. Someday I'll again own an Alfa . . . if the wife says it's ok.
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366 Posts
I have all the parts purchased to install after painting: new emblems, new chrome door handles, and chrome mirrors to replace the painted ones. I also have a used spoiler to be sanded-painted-installed to replace my dented one. I haven't yet stripped all the exterior parts off yet to send it to the painters. I'm waiting on the cowl drain tubes that I ordered from Centerline so I can install them prior. I know that the painter will probably need to wet sand and probably need to get it wet so I want to replace the leaky cowl drain tubes prior to taking it to him.
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520 Posts
guys i think your confusing the years.
ive been restoring my fusebox and have learned alot (including how impossible it will ever be to find that big black cover you have there)
kunz, our late s3 interiors didnt have the fusebox light because we no longer needed it. the early S3 didnt have the knee-bolsters with integrated floorlighting. so they had a light in the box.
the floor lamp, less than two inches from the fusebox, was meant to be the courtesy lamp for changing fuses.
the Timer Relay is awesome. definitely get it. (Vicks has them for about 40$ dont buy a used one. ive been through two that didnt work) its called the SIPEA 0679
the problem is, and the reason everyone takes it out, is due to the fact that its so tall that kicking it on a quick up-shift, is pretty easy and it breaks easily. thats why im building a cover-band for the relays out of sheetmetal. it wont look great but it will protect it pretty good.
ive been restoring my fusebox and have learned alot (including how impossible it will ever be to find that big black cover you have there)
kunz, our late s3 interiors didnt have the fusebox light because we no longer needed it. the early S3 didnt have the knee-bolsters with integrated floorlighting. so they had a light in the box.
the floor lamp, less than two inches from the fusebox, was meant to be the courtesy lamp for changing fuses.
the Timer Relay is awesome. definitely get it. (Vicks has them for about 40$ dont buy a used one. ive been through two that didnt work) its called the SIPEA 0679
the problem is, and the reason everyone takes it out, is due to the fact that its so tall that kicking it on a quick up-shift, is pretty easy and it breaks easily. thats why im building a cover-band for the relays out of sheetmetal. it wont look great but it will protect it pretty good.
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366 Posts
Confusing years? Not really, Tifosi upgraded his old style fuse type box with the newer type. I bought a fuse box off an '88 as I needed the clip. I sent him the rest of the box and he used it to upgrade the old style to the new. His box is now an 85 / 88 box. Mine is an 89 MY / with a clip from an 88 (exact same part) as my clip was missing.
Good for you Todd ! You have a first rate example of a well restored Spider. Mine s/b off within the next month for paint.
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yes kunz. confusing the years when you try to figure out why you dont have a fusebox light. its only for cars without the late-series knee-bolsters.
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366 Posts
Yes, I know now. Its easy to get confused when you see features on parts that were left there as something that was used in the past. Kind of cool how they still used the same part but just didn't add the metal strip and light on the S3s fuse boxes. One thing that is nice about our Spiders is that there is so much interchange between years so its really not that hard to find parts for them.
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