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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
You might want to try installing them further under the boot material so that they don't stick out as far.
You can't do that and have them now follow the same line as the trim they have to clip on to. I'll post a picture so you can see the extensions they have added to the clip. If they were black it would not be that big of a deal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
Old vs. New Top Boot Clips

The first shot is a detail of the new clip. The second is of the orginal clip. The last is the old boot cover laid on top of the new and folded back to show the clips side by side. The profile of the clip that engages the trim is the same for both, but the new one has an extension added to the outside for easier removal.
 

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I could be mistaken but, your new clips look just like the clips on my oringinal boot cover. The only difference is mine seem to be mounted further under? Maybe the difference is your new material stretches more. :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
I think I figured it out. I bet that Alfa changed to the new style clips with the S4s. My top boot cover was just made recently. They used an original S3 cover as a pattern. But the clips have now changed so the lever sticks out. I'm thinking about dipping the ends of the clips in this:
http://www.plastidip.com/consumer/index.html
I'll use black to help camo them so they don't show up so bad.
 

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My boot clips used to stick out until another alfista suggested that I reverse the clip so the long end ends up hidden and the short end clips onto the moulding. I suppose that either way is good but if you don't want to see those white clips stick out reversing them will do the trick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #108 · (Edited)
Fuse Box Clip Found

I've resorted to using wire ties to hold the fuse box up and out of the way.
No more green zip ties holding up the fuse box.

"rezdoc" had a used fusebox with the clip and various relays and fuses from an '88 for sale on ebay. I was hoping to also get the courtesy lights timer relay in the purchase as the picture showed a relay sitting in that position, but the relays were just put in randomly.

Anyone need a fuse box minus the clip?

Spare relays are now in their correct position in the spare fuse box and wrapped with tape. Might come in handy in an emergency, so I'll keep them in the trunk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
The clip looks like a handle and "clips" up the fuse box when not needed. Otherwise it hinges down in front of the clutch. I had zip ties holding my fuse box up out of the way for a while as this part was missing from the fuse box when I got the car. (See the second large picture where I left one green wire tie around the post that it clips to. It looks like a handle.) I don't know why they made the fuse box hinge down as I could still get to my fuses rather easily when it was held up fixed in place with the zip ties.
 

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OK, that's nothing I need in mine as the fusebox hangs down in mine by default anyway.

Shoot some PM my way if you want to unload it.

Meanwhile I'm going back out to the garage to get that relay # you're looking for in the other thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #112 ·
$30 Donated

Even though I don't know what you mean by 'clip', I might take that off your hands, if only so I can get away from bayonet fuses.
Tifosi,
Thanks for the check for the fusebox. I just donated $30 as promised.
How's the fusebox conversion going? I know several in my club that would like to do the same thing.
 

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im really happy to hear this

now i know u wont be counter-bidding on me while i try to restore my fusebox to factory condition. got my sites set on a cover and just got my replacement and unbroken fusebox last week.

nice
 

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Looks like I am now following down the same path as kunzman! I just bought a full set of black used carpet from a '91 Spider... to replace the nasty brown carpet in my '87. The black carpet is in excellent shape.
 

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Reading this thread made my hands and knees hurt all over again. I bought my spider several months ago and went through very much the same process except I did not recover the seats. I did however have to fabricate a mounting mechanism for new seatbelts (the 88 had those crummy motorized belts that quit working about an hour after leaving the factory). New carpet, door trim, window trim, gluing broken plastic and loose vinyl, new motor mounts, input shaft seal, thermostat, vacuum lines, intake runner hoses, air filter, plugs, wires, rotor, distributor cap, driveshaft center bearing, both universal joints, transmission mount, fuel filter,oil cap, tires. On order are O2 sensor, rear shocks, axle limiting straps and long heater hose. I have concluded that Italian factory workers have very long, strong fingers and a lot of patience. The new top boot I got has the same white clips that stick out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #118 ·
Top Boot Clips

Reading this thread made my hands and knees hurt all over again. I bought my spider several months ago and went through very much the same process except I did not recover the seats. I did however have to fabricate a mounting mechanism for new seatbelts (the 88 had those crummy motorized belts that quit working about an hour after leaving the factory). New carpet, door trim, window trim, gluing broken plastic and loose vinyl, new motor mounts, input shaft seal, thermostat, vacuum lines, intake runner hoses, air filter, plugs, wires, rotor, distributor cap, driveshaft center bearing, both universal joints, transmission mount, fuel filter,oil cap, tires. On order are O2 sensor, rear shocks, axle limiting straps and long heater hose. I have concluded that Italian factory workers have very long, strong fingers and a lot of patience. The new top boot I got has the same white clips that stick out.
I'm taking mine off and am going to probably spray them black and flip them around as suggested. Did you also get your boot from topsonline?
 

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How's the fusebox conversion going? I know several in my club that would like to do the same thing.
Wow, I gotta chase back into these older thread more often. Sorry I missed your reply and question from over a month ago.... :(

The swap went great. Straight up plug-n-play with all connectors being the same and in the same locations on both boxes. I simply removed a connector from one box and put it directly into the same spot in the replacement over and over again until everything had been moved form point A to point B.

The whole deal took about an hour with about half of that trying to figure out how to get the fusebox illumination light to come on properly. (it never worked right to begin with in mine, so having it all after the swap was a novelty I wanted to keep. I didn't quite get it as there seems to be an issue with my curtesy light timer which it operates off, so I've got a temporary push on/ push off switch velcro'd in there for the moment)

The hinged lid (where the latch handle used to go on your version) was a piece of pie too. I just ran the hinge pin out of my existing lid and box (small c-clip on each end, then just shove it out) and it fit right into the bit on the new box with no hassles or quirks. Looking at both boxes side by side with all that stuff removed showed that they are identical in that area.

The only noticable difference is the clear cover that popped on over the bullet fuses. As the minifuse part of the box is a sort of 'push-in addition' to the older box, there's not as much space for that cover. It doesn't snap on, (because that's where the minifuse adapter box bit snaps in), though it kinda 'sticks' there if you line it up and the lid for the whole panel holds it in place quite nicely.

One thing I did note though: even as the boxes were identical in layout and connections, the bullet style version was filled with brass and copper contacts and connectors, but the minifuse one was all white metal.

My impression is that the minifuse one will be slightly more suceptible to certain types of corrosion ('specially that white flaky kind) but it won't be as ready to 'soften up' and let fuses loose like the bullet style does once you get a circut loaded up with a lot of stuff turned on.

After all was said and done, there was about a 1/2 to 1 volt increase shown on my autometer voltage meter over what the bullet fuse box could produce. (all contacts clean and tight on both with suitable grease insulating against corrosion)

EG: with the heater blower on full cut, the wipers on fast, (itermittant seems to give a harder hit actually as it's got that whole 'start them moving' thing going), the headlights on high, (relay setup), brakes on and stereo going at warmed up idle it pulls between 12.5 and 13 volts. Prior to the swap the same stuff would draw it down to 12 or even under.

If we get a warm day (ha, ha, ha) I'll crawl up in there and take some pix of it dangling in place.


Oh, on those top boot snap thingies?

I just shaved a bit of material off where it was obvious they had too much hook or lip.

When I take them off now, I don't lever up on the little 'handle' bit, but push down on the part that arcs over the trim which kinda springs the latches open a bit and they pop right off with little or no effort.
 
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