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Which Horn Button Logo?

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1966-2013
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window crank the edge of screw broke off. I had no slot left to turn the screwdriver against, but it was very loose so I kept tapping one corner for what seemed like a half hour as it slowly backed out of the hole. (Anyone know where I can find a replacement for that screw as well?)
Hardware store, bolt and screw section.

They'll have the size you need in an allen set screw stud (no head, just a wrench hole in the top). All you'll need to do is grind that needle point onto the end and off you go.


Anyone know where I can purchase the top plastic clips for the map pockets?
If you can't find the actual item, they can be fabricated from 1/8" aluminum or 1/16" steel plate.

If you've got the pieces of the original, you could try to make a sheet metal backer for it to hold the stuff together, but that doesn't always work so well.
 

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1966-2013
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13,741 Posts
Your translation of the colors was all I was confirming.

Looking at a factory radio schematic for late S3:

Black to chassis ground

Red through fuse to fusebox #5 fuse (#5 controls door buzzer & fusebox illumination, so is presumably hot all the time)

Light blue/black and light blue to one speaker

Gray/black and gray to the other speaker


That's it. :shrug:
 

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1966-2013
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13,741 Posts
OK, that's nothing I need in mine as the fusebox hangs down in mine by default anyway.

Shoot some PM my way if you want to unload it.

Meanwhile I'm going back out to the garage to get that relay # you're looking for in the other thread.
 

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1966-2013
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13,741 Posts
How's the fusebox conversion going? I know several in my club that would like to do the same thing.
Wow, I gotta chase back into these older thread more often. Sorry I missed your reply and question from over a month ago.... :(

The swap went great. Straight up plug-n-play with all connectors being the same and in the same locations on both boxes. I simply removed a connector from one box and put it directly into the same spot in the replacement over and over again until everything had been moved form point A to point B.

The whole deal took about an hour with about half of that trying to figure out how to get the fusebox illumination light to come on properly. (it never worked right to begin with in mine, so having it all after the swap was a novelty I wanted to keep. I didn't quite get it as there seems to be an issue with my curtesy light timer which it operates off, so I've got a temporary push on/ push off switch velcro'd in there for the moment)

The hinged lid (where the latch handle used to go on your version) was a piece of pie too. I just ran the hinge pin out of my existing lid and box (small c-clip on each end, then just shove it out) and it fit right into the bit on the new box with no hassles or quirks. Looking at both boxes side by side with all that stuff removed showed that they are identical in that area.

The only noticable difference is the clear cover that popped on over the bullet fuses. As the minifuse part of the box is a sort of 'push-in addition' to the older box, there's not as much space for that cover. It doesn't snap on, (because that's where the minifuse adapter box bit snaps in), though it kinda 'sticks' there if you line it up and the lid for the whole panel holds it in place quite nicely.

One thing I did note though: even as the boxes were identical in layout and connections, the bullet style version was filled with brass and copper contacts and connectors, but the minifuse one was all white metal.

My impression is that the minifuse one will be slightly more suceptible to certain types of corrosion ('specially that white flaky kind) but it won't be as ready to 'soften up' and let fuses loose like the bullet style does once you get a circut loaded up with a lot of stuff turned on.

After all was said and done, there was about a 1/2 to 1 volt increase shown on my autometer voltage meter over what the bullet fuse box could produce. (all contacts clean and tight on both with suitable grease insulating against corrosion)

EG: with the heater blower on full cut, the wipers on fast, (itermittant seems to give a harder hit actually as it's got that whole 'start them moving' thing going), the headlights on high, (relay setup), brakes on and stereo going at warmed up idle it pulls between 12.5 and 13 volts. Prior to the swap the same stuff would draw it down to 12 or even under.

If we get a warm day (ha, ha, ha) I'll crawl up in there and take some pix of it dangling in place.


Oh, on those top boot snap thingies?

I just shaved a bit of material off where it was obvious they had too much hook or lip.

When I take them off now, I don't lever up on the little 'handle' bit, but push down on the part that arcs over the trim which kinda springs the latches open a bit and they pop right off with little or no effort.
 

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1966-2013
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13,741 Posts
Yup, it's one of those straight bulbs with the little nubbins on the side that pushes in and twist locks. The spring tab looking bit (doesn't appear to be present in your photo) gets shoved down into the slot in the mount and acts as ground while the nubbins contact the hot side via the metal spring loaded liner in the mount proper.

It's tied into the curtesy light timer circut so it comes on when the timer is active or the door is open.
 

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1966-2013
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13,741 Posts
OK, lesse if these came out worth a crap.

1) the tab that acts as ground for the box light
2) the tab being held in its operating position
3) fusebox as installed and in stored postion
4) fusebox open with light and fuse cover lense in place
5) fusebox open with light and fuse cover lense removed

Ignore the relay to the right (it's not part of the regular circutry but associated with the extra fuse box seen by the steering column and is stuck there with velcro) and the little swtich to the right of the bulb (again, velcro'd in and a temporary solution until I get a new curtesy light timer)
 

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1966-2013
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13,741 Posts
I dunno, but it might be amusing to find out. My diagrams here are for 86 and supposedly up (though papajam has mentioned that there was a seperate diagram alltogether for the 86 or 87, then a different one yet for those beyond so what I have may not be totally relevant)

As you've got the actual socket there and the timer, you likely could get creative and modify your stuff to have the little light, but as your curtesy light is right there to begin with, it would likely be more novelty that useful item. On mine, it's really a sort of neccesity as the box is over there <---- on that side of the steering column while the curtesy light is over there ---> on the side of the console.

The clip handle on yours and the cover on mine are what I was reffering to as being a direct swap/exchange for those interested in going from bullet to minifuse. Straight up changeover once the bit that goes through the fusebox proper is removed and exchanged for it's counterpart on whatever way you're swapping.

If your buds in the club want to give it a shot to upgrade, I can't see where they'd run into any real issues other than the tight confines of the work area.


OT tangent:

Did you spot the aluminum diamond plate dead pedal? :)
 

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1966-2013
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13,741 Posts
Oh, back to the light:

If someone does do it and the light is present in what they're pulling out vs not in what they're putting in, all there is to deal with is that rivet you spotted.

It's that one rivet through the ground strap tying to one connector on the back, so it can be drilled out of the old one and the parts swapped over to the replacement with a pop rivet. (picture of the back of the box in this attachment from another thread)

The internal bits of the light socket (a yoke kind of thing with a spring behind it) just pop out through the front if you lever the sides of the socket out a bit, or conversely, bend the sides of the yoke in to clear the locking edge of the socket moulding.
 
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