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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Finally had time today to get started. I am taking tons of pictures for the forum and also so I know how everything goes back together.

I started with taking the seats out. (driver's seat first) I needed to replace the driver's seat pan as the front two attachments had completely collapsed. Spent about 3 extra hours than it should have taken as the IAP replacement pan is not fit, form, and function to the orginal :mad:. The bolt holes for the track mechanism were about 3mm off so I had to slot the front hole on each track to get them to match the seat pan. Also the "bulge" on the IAP pan is wider :mad: and wouldn't let the slider lever mechanism lock on the rails. So the driver's side seat will be two washers higher than the passenger seat. By spacing the rail away from the seat pan I was able to get the slider lock mechanism to work correctly :cool:. Lastly one of the weldnuts had slag left in it :mad: and I had to search three places to find an 8mm tap to clean it out. Stripped the threads on one of my original seat bolts in the process thinking I could dislodge the slag that way. (Anyone know where I can find a replacement track to seat pan 8mm bolt?) I ended up going with a socket cap 8mm bolt that would also work. Fortunately, the passenger side seat pan was in good shape and its removal was pretty painless :).

Next I stripped the door panels off. I consider myself very lucky as when I went to remove the set screw in the driver's side window crank the edge of screw broke off. I had no slot left to turn the screwdriver against, but it was very loose so I kept tapping one corner for what seemed like a half hour as it slowly backed out of the hole. (Anyone know where I can find a replacement for that screw as well?)

Prior to disassembly I printed out the matching pages from my CarDisc. After I finished each section, I put all the hardware in Zip Lock bags and marked it with a Sharpie. I also put the corresponding printed CarDisc page into the bags with any notes I made to make the directions more clear for reassembly.

Now seats and door panels are ready to go to the upholsterer. Hopefully I'll have time to remove the old carpet tomorrow. I'll post a full set of pictures of the entire project when I get a chance to download them from the camera.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Clips for Map Pocket

Anyone know where I can purchase the top plastic clips for the map pockets?
They keep the pocket from coming out too far.
 

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window crank the edge of screw broke off. I had no slot left to turn the screwdriver against, but it was very loose so I kept tapping one corner for what seemed like a half hour as it slowly backed out of the hole. (Anyone know where I can find a replacement for that screw as well?)
Hardware store, bolt and screw section.

They'll have the size you need in an allen set screw stud (no head, just a wrench hole in the top). All you'll need to do is grind that needle point onto the end and off you go.


Anyone know where I can purchase the top plastic clips for the map pockets?
If you can't find the actual item, they can be fabricated from 1/8" aluminum or 1/16" steel plate.

If you've got the pieces of the original, you could try to make a sheet metal backer for it to hold the stuff together, but that doesn't always work so well.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Seat Pan

The IAP guy said that the same pan works for the Graduate seats and the Veloce seats. Everything else matched up when I put it back together, so I am going with this seat pan. I may end up grinding out a small hole where the actuator hits the pan for clearance instead of spacing up the seat 1/8".
I have to get the seats back from the upholsterer first before I have to decide. But it works now with the washers in place.

I doubt the tracks for the Graduate and Veloce were different. I just think the welding jig they made these on was a little off. Since there was welding slag left in one of the nuts, it makes me question the manufacturer's methods.
I couldn't find a used one, so I had to go with this repro part.
 

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I THINK the drivers and passanger seats are a bit different. Hopefully someone who has more knowledge than I(that would be almost anyone) will let you know, but it seems I read that on here somewhere.
 

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I do not know if this has anything to do with it, but on my '91 Spider, the drivers seat is closer to the center tunnel than the passenger side. I noticed this when cleaning the car, that on the passenger side I could not really vacum between the seat and the side frame rail, but I could on the driver's side.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Seat Pan Controversy

The replacement part (#30396) I ordered from IAP is supposed to work on all seat pans from 1966-94 left or right. Its spellled out on page 72 in the Number 41 catalogue.

From examining my seat pans, the left and right are supposed to be the same part. Also, the outside shape on the IAP part is exactly the same as my original, but the bulge is wider on theirs. The yellow line distance is wider on the new seat pan, however all outside dimensions and height are the same. Also notice that the new part has a drain hole in it.

The area circled is where the latch mechanism hits the "bulge", so I spaced the track further away from the pan with two washers so that the latch would work. When I finally will put the seats back in though I think I'll remove the washers and cut a hole in this location for the latch mechanism to clear. I'll basically just be adding a second drain hole, so no big deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Why I replaced the driver's side seat pan

A few years back the seat pan gave way and my Brother-in-Law fabricated a large custom "washer" and backed it with the original weld nuts. This worked nicely for the time being, but since I was going to reupholster the seats I decided to replace the whole driver's side seat pan.
(NOTE: This car originally belonged to my Father-in-Law.)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Deconstructing Alfa

Here are the pictures of the almost gutted interior. The new carpet pieces are laid in place for comparison in some of the shots. I have to still get a radio removal tool to take the radio out thereby allowing me access to the final screws holding the console in place. Then its time for the new carpet :cool:.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Finishing up with the root canal

Here are pictures of getting the main piece out.

Motion Audio gave me an old Pioneer stereo extraction tool which will also work on my Alpine deck. Got the stereo out and then was able to finish taking out the center console and the knee bolster.

I used a bungee cord to hold the heat/air vent cables and wiring up out of the way by connecting to the rear view mirror. I also used one to hold the fuse box out of the way and connected to the steering wheel. BTW, the shop manual from CarDisc was extremely helpful in doing this project. I put the pages I was working on in the bag of parts for that section so it should be easy to put everything back together. I am also keeping a running list of things to fix/correct with any of the removed parts before I put the new carpet back in. That way I won't have to start/stop in the reinstall process.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/showthread.php?t=43590

Follow this thread for discussion of vendors. IAP carries a black set and Re-Originals has a tan set. Not sure how many Re-Originals has left as I was told I got the second to last tan set and that the mold no longer existed. Also, they cautioned me that the parcel shelf was slightly discolored from the main set and sent me pictures. I had planned on dyeing it brown like my original carpet set anyway, but was pleasantly surprised to find it more saddle/tan in color than their photos and decided not to dye it.

With Re-Originals you buy one part and it comes with everything. With IAP you have to buy two separate parts to get the equivalent. Also the parcel shelf is complete from Re-Originals; IAP's version does not come with the rail, covers for the seat belts, or backing board. It just has carpet to recover your existing shelf.
 
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