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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Removed engine and trans today. Took out clutch but can't get fly wheel nuts lose. Nedd some help. Second should I bolt engine stand where trans was before.
 

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I attached the engine to the stand at the engine mount.



Some mechanics use Locktight on the flywheel bolts. You'll need to lock the crankshaft in order to apply enough torque to undo them And if there is locktight on the bolts, heat will help. Warm them up with a propane torch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
1989 veloce fly wheel

Thanks for the diagram. does the engine stand bolt on to the motor mont studs. and is that how the diagram works.
 

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Yes. Actually I didn't make/use the adapter shown in the sketch above - that is something I stole off the internet. I did bolt the engine to the stand at the motor mount studs. I removed the studs and used longer bolts with spacers (hollow tubes) to attach it to the piece that came with the engine stand.

P.S. note that when you re-install the flywheel it must be installed correctly. It is not 'doweled', thus there are six possible ways to install it but only one is correct...
 

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Don't ask me when/where I recently saw one of these, but there is a VW (as in Bettle) flywheel lock available. It's a small metal triangle, with a bolt hole on one corner to fasten it to one of the starter mounting ears, and teeth on the opposite side to engage the ring gear. Perhaps someone else will chime in.
 

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Flywheel Lock

I can't seem to find the photo, but I have successfully used a crowfoot open end wrench as a flywheel holder. Find the right size that fits between three or four teeth, and use a bolt through the socket end to bolt to a bellhousing hole. Of course you can borrow an impact wrench to get the bolts off, but you'll still need a holder to put them back on with a torque wrench. Good luck. -Steve
 

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Just so you are prepared Joe.... I broke 2 Craftman 3/8 inch breaker bars taking of fmy flywheel... It is a recomendation from me to use 1/2" bar, and rest assured that there is locktite on each and everyone of those suckers. Good luck.... As for holding the flywheel, I think I just used a srwedriver and a pair of vicegrips. It is the least of the worries...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
1989 veloce fly wheel

Thanks I'll get the bar and a pipe and give it a shot. I keep looking at the motor mount studs. It seems hard to believe that 3 studs and hold the entire engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
1989 veloce fly wheel

Thanks for the help I just ordered the part. Trying to make a part to hold the engine in the stand then I should be ready to go.
 

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I know this thread is a year and a half old, but are y'all still out there? Please tell me the stock studs can support the engine on a stand. I have the Harbor Freight 750 lbs. universal stand and am nervous about the Alfa bolts snapping off! Can the trans be kept on? What side is best to mount to? Thank you for any replies.
 

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The Alfa engine can certainly be mounted to an engine stand via the engine mount studs. The pictures I posted are real...

I don't know about attaching the gearbox while it is mounted that way. That puts the weight a longer distance from the mount - might be too much leverage-wise.
 

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The cheap generic VW flywheel locks work great and cost almost nothing. California Import Parts and others will have them.
A guy in England makes repro Alfa flywheel locks. I just got one from him and it works great on various different flywheel sizes, but it's by no means essential.
Using a crowbar, screwdriver, etc. in the ring gear teeth will eat them up as it slips. Flywheel bolts are in tight and are loctited from the factory, so it take some effort to bust them loose.
Andrew
 

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Please tell me the stock studs can support the engine on a stand. I have the Harbor Freight 750 lbs. universal stand and am nervous about the Alfa bolts snapping off
If it's any consolation, the studs for the mounts are bigger diameter/stronger than the wimpy ones used on the back of the block to tie the bellhousing on with. That and coming in from the side reduces the leverage against the mount point. (about a foot or more less hanging out in the breeze deadweight than what the more conventional 'back of the block' setups produce)

Besides, all the good books show it being done that way :D

I don't think I'd be trying to hang both engine and trans off the mount studs though. That's best left to floor dollies.
 

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Thanks guys for replies. I'm going about it this weekend as a first timer, so i'll take all the advice I can get. I'll take the gearbox off before the engine mounts to stand.
 

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I have a similar side-stand adaptor (made by Norman Racing) that goes from one motor mount triangle to a standard cheapie Chinese engine stand. Works better, as far as I'm concerned, than mounting to the bellhousing points, as it leaves the rear clear to install and turn the flywheel/clutch.
Andrew
 
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