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Discussion Starter #1
My 89 spider won't start so I have tried a few fixes, I have been following82 won't start tread and have been trying to fix each item. Here is what I have done. Thought from threads posted the last couple of weeks that fuel injectors were bad so sent it out to Greg at OKINJECTORS. It came back with information sheet, not too bad. Greg cleaned all injectors so I started to put everything back on the car.

I started by going through Bosch L-jetronic tune-up 11 steps
1. Went through all hoses added silicone new ones in a few places, everything seems good. The only I did not clean out was the canister behind front wheel well.
2. Cleaned all grounds and even changed out main ground under car, clean and tight. Cleaned all grounds on intake manifold and ground to battery. Cleaned up ground behind front seat by ECU. Checked and changed all fuses in fuse box.
3. Voltage check Battery cold reads 12.45, on trying to start car 11.50
4. Flywheel sensor. The Gray one reads 1021 and the black one I purchased new from IAP it reads 990.
5. VVT, someone has changed out cam at some time, there is no place for the VVT to push in on cam cover, I have a spare engine and it has the correct cover, so not able to make adjustment.
6. Cold start,
CTS reads 2.11 and connected
TTS I can't get it to read on my meter so I purchased a new one and put it in, I can't get the new one to read as outlined.
AAV will not open when cold or put in the freezer, so for this to start the car I have take it out and connected the hose direct, I figured this would be fine to start the car. I left electrical connection on the AAV
4. Fuel pump, I replaced the fuel pump last year and the fuel filter yesterday. I can hear the pump start up. The fuse behind the seat is good. I DID NOT CHECK THE FUEL PRESSURE. I took out cold start and it sprayed good stream of gas. When I took hose off of cold start high pressure gas sprayed all over me and car.
6. Injectors. As stated above I sent out to OKINJECTORS with entire rail. Greg sent back all ready to put into the car. While it was out I took off intake manifold put in new gasket and cleaned the entire manifold, did not polish as Tifosi pointed out hard to see it anyway.
7. Air flow meter. AFM moved fine I cleaned it up and advanced a 6 teeth and silicone it back down.
I could not clean up ideal since car won't start.

I have been following French problem and have been following along and checking as advised.
1. Battery 12.45 cold and 11.50 on cranking.
2. Spark plug: Went through like ghnl stated found TDC firing order correct lined up on distributor on mark.
3. Fuel rail lots of pressure but I did not test.
4. Cold Start injector squirts gas fine.
I can smell gas when trying to start.
5. harness connections, are all good except for TTS as soon as I can get car to run I was going to change the connection part of the plastic is broken put it is making connection since the car does not move or start.
6. Check spark plugs they were not fouled, when I started plug two had burnt away the bottom parts of the spark plug and even arc marks on the spark plug metal. My book shows the plugs should have a gap of 5mm. I put in my old plugs since the one Bosch was burnt they show a gap of .043. I put a spark plug in each connector and ground as stated and have spark at each plug. Hard to tell on the color so when it gets dark I am going to test again. COULD THE PLUGS NOT BE GETTING ENOUGH VOLTS?
7. Took ECU out of car cleaned both connections they looked fine, not sure where the ground on the ECU is located it only has the three nuts holding it in place, does one or all of the nuts make up the ground, I made them all clean and tight.

HOPEFULLY SOMEONE WILL HAVE AN IDEA, DON'T HAVE MUCH LEFT TO CHANGE OUT. THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL THE THREADS.

Papajam got the wires figured out for me, SHOULD I GET THE NOID LIGHT NEXT LIKE TIFOSI STATES.
 

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Correct spark plug gap is 0.6 mm - 0.7 mm (0.024" - 0.028").

There is mention in the shop manual of a 5mm gap to be used when cranking the engine with spark plugs disconnected "to protect the ignition system". But that is not the normal spark plug gap for spark plugs to be installed in the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I reset all the gaps to .025 and it still won't start. Do you have any ideas ?

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #4
1989 won't start

I tested the CSI by removing it from the intake plenum and trying to start the engine with CTS and TTS connected. Gas came out of the CSI. Would it be safe to say that my CTS and TTS and CSI are all working.
If so I can elimanate three more reason while it will not start.
 

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Spark???

Hi Joe, Are you getting a spark at the plugs? Get an old plug and pull a plug wire and see if theres a spark while cranking. If not use a 12 volt test light and touch it to the negative side of the igntion coil while cranking and see if it starts flashing.... Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #6
1989 won't start

I pulled the spark plug wire and put in an old plug and grounded on spark plug threads and got a blue white spark off of each plug.
I was thinking it may be the main fuel relay or the drive fuel relay any thoughts would be helpfull I am running out of things to change and replace.
 

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Sounds like you have fuel and spark. We can assume it's getting air too so now you need to confirm the timing of the spark. Look to get the engine to TDC and see where the rotor is pointing. Should be very close to #1 spark plug wire.

If everything is in the correct place/orientation, I would try a little bit of starting fluid to see if it will fire on the ether. If it does then we can focus on a fuel issue and eliminate the spark and timing.


Just my .002
 

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Discussion Starter #8
1989 won't start

Ok what kind of starting fuild and where to a spray it. Thanks I needed the help
 

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Standard starting fluid from any auto parts store. Nothing special about it.

Open the air filter housing and spray a 2-3 second shot while someone cranks the engine. The engine will run breifly on it if there is spark at the right moment and no fuel.

What we want to see is if it runs or tries to run.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Where exactly do you spray it in? I sprayed it in where the screwdriver is located and then reattached the air line then started the car. IS this right ?

I also used a NOID tester on injector wires 3 & 4. No lights on the test.

Not sure what to do.
 

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?

Hey Joe are trying to start that thing without the AAV installed? I see those 2 red hoses connected without a valve... Did the noid light not flash at all with the motor cranking? Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The noid light did not light when I tried it on #3 and #4.
You can see that I took out AAV and ran the hose direct since the engine is cold, My AAV is bad when I did the test in Greg's proceedure the AAV would not open when cold. So I have the AAV still on car and if it would start and warm up I would connect and wait for the AAV that I ordered to come in.
thanks for the help not sure what else to do.
 

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Were you cranking the motor with the niod light plugged in???
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yes. Pluged noid into #4 cranked engine no light flashing on Noid. Plug into #3 cranked engine over no light flashing.
I did not try #1 and #2 since I thought something was not sending signal
thanks for the help
 

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Ok, back to basics. Yes you can spray it there. Did it start and run even for a short bit?

If yes, then we have a fuel delivery issue. Time to start checking the wiring and grounds.
 

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There are some ground wires (a gang of 2 or 3 I think) that were originally attached under one of the AAV mounting bolts. Those ground wires (black insulation) are for one of the computers (I don't recall off hand if it is for the ignition or injection computer). Make sure you have not left those hanging somewhere. The computer uses the ground connections to control the fuel injectors (switching the ground circuit on & off).

There is another gang of ground wires attached to the right side rear of the block or intake. And a ground strap from the plenum to the block and a ground strap from the bellhousing to the body in the transmission tunnel. And two cam cover bolts must have metal washers to ground the cam cover (originally the rear two cam cover bolts had the metal washers, the other cam cover bolts have fibre washers). All those ground connections must be present & in good condition.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
I took the ground off the AAV and put it with the ones on the rear side of the intake manafold, cleaned each one a little elec grease and tighted up. I took off old strap cleaned area and put on new strap. The two cam cover bolts both have metal washers.
All cleaned tight and redone.
Only good part about working on the car right now no grease on hands and now frozen nuts and bolts.
Let me know what else I can check. need the help
 
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