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1987 Spider Graduate
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Discussion Starter #1
I'm trying to get a 1987 spider running. I have power to the + side of the coil but nothing to the - side. So no spark. I've been trying to find wiring diagrams but no luck. Can anyone help me?
 

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I sent you a diagram for the '88 spider (check your "conversations" box)

cranking voltage would be my first check with a no-spark: whilst cranking check voltage across the battery, you need a good 10.5 (better is ca. 11V) for the computor to wake up.
If that is OK
then I would check the 2 crank sensors.
There are 2 plugs up by the washer bottle. Unplug one at a time (so as not to mix them up) and test the resistance: you want to see about 800-1250
as here (relevant pages from the L-jet diagnosis document)
see how that goes then report back

Oh, and welcome to the BB:)
Photos of your alfa would be nice too;)
 

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did you buy it non running?
Or did it stop running all of a sudden?
 

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1987 Spider Graduate
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Discussion Starter #5
Non running. Supposedly just wouldn't start one day. Said the coil was bad. Don't think so. Its been sitting for a few years.. Just something to tinker with. Lol
 

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can you confirm which wires are connected to coil neg-, which to coil pos+? The PO might have messed things up in his endeavor to get it starting.
As this spider never ran in your presence, check those flywheel sensors are connected correctly: upper sensor is connected to black plug and lower to grey plug.

also check if the tach wire (thinner white) on coil has a short somewhere. If so, you will not get spark.
Easiest is disconnect the thinner white on coil neg. side and put others back......now recheck for spark.

you could be looking at a bad ecu, of course.
These can be sent out for testing (small $) and if a fault is found then repaired (bigger $$)...a company like ECU Doctors or someone similar.
...or try borrow a known good unit

(Maybe include your location in your signature....might be a helpful S3 owner around the corner!)
 

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yep. That is all correctly wired
BUT, voltage flow will take one look at those rusty contacts and make a swift U turn;)

you really need to clean those contacts on the coil, or you won't get anywhere.
by clean I mean remove all the wires, get a wire brush to the coil contacts until shiny clean, then also clean the wire 'end connectors', nuts etc....refit (if poss. with some copper ease grease)
 

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No start issues are a PIA. You are doing the right things in checking the electrics, but you could just swap in a different coil and see what happens, if you have one.
 

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86 Veloce
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Since it has been sitting I would just go through the L-jet troubleshooting guide step by step that Dom referred to. It basically goes through everything that would cause an L-jet not to run barring mechanical issues...
 

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1987 Spider Graduate
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Discussion Starter #11
I removed the carpet behind the passenger seat to look at the ECU. Found a mess. There was a wire inserted under the relay connector, a wire with an inch of insulation removed and other wires that had probe holes in them.Also checked an inline fuse that was blown. My fuses are the blade type but that one is the European style. So I guess I will be ordering a few of them. I also found a inline fuse close to the ignition coil that was blown also. And this item (picture below), no idea what it is? Anyone know?
 

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I removed the carpet behind the passenger seat to look at the ECU. Found a mess. There was a wire inserted under the relay connector, a wire with an inch of insulation removed and other wires that had probe holes in them.Also checked an inline fuse that was blown. My fuses are the blade type but that one is the European style. So I guess I will be ordering a few of them. I also found a inline fuse close to the ignition coil that was blown also. And this item (picture below), no idea what it is? Anyone know?
The thing in the photo is a thermostatic Sensor for the AC fan run on. Screws onto the plastic radiator fan cowl
 

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The in-line fuse under the shelf behind the seats is likely for the fuel pumps. The old style 'bullet' fuses can be unreliable. I suggest you replace the fuse holder with one that uses the blade type fuse. The original rating was 8 amps. So use either a 7.5 or 10 amp blade fuse.
 

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inline fuse near IGN coil sounds like the 8 amp VVT fuse (should have a green/black wire)

Have you cleaned those coil terminals, then re-checked again for 12V on either side?;)

oh and as Eric says, check that bullet fuse holder near the ECU, that nearly always causes problems.
Don't just replace the fuse, look inside the holder for signs of melting.
In fact get rid of it, replace with a 2$ blade fuse holder...problem fixed once and for all.
 

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Richard Jemison
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There should be a thicker white wire that goes to the coil negative from the computer to trigger sparks.

Many of the L-jets failed and the solution was to replace the Bosch distributor with one that directly controls advance and triggers the coil directly. Ie: a points type(n), or a modified points type with pertronix conversion, or aftermarket. Without a triggering from such a source (or a working L-Jet box, you will not get triggering for the injectors and it`s control module.
 

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1987 Spider Graduate
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Discussion Starter #16
Where can I get the ECU tested? Just in case.

I'm going to do some rewiring. Someone really messed this stuff up. I got myself some blade type inline fuse holders.
I appreciate everyone's advice.
 

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