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Discussion Starter #1
Well folks back to the well of knowledge once more. Here we go . Battery fully charged both at cranking and standing. Replaced both 8amp fuses (ecu behind pass seat and 8amp under hood) spark at plugs (spark plug tester) both fuel pumps tested with jumper to battery good. Ignition on position 1 I hear relay by ecu. DO NOT HEAR FUEL PUMPS. Have Checked all grounds , good. Additionally have had a RML dizzy installation for a while drove it all last summer worked when it was running Great(shameless Plug for Ric at RML great customer service he really gives a s%€t). Checked all fuses in fuse box ...replaced suspect fuses .

Question she cranks voltage checks but fuel pumps do not turn on ....what next ?
As always thank you.
VR
Chris
 

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Just because relay 'clicks' doesn't necessarily mean it is not defective. Try jumping the relay with ignition on. If you hear the main fuel pump, then its probably a bad relay.
 

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pos 1 you hear relay click but not pumps, remember pumps only work when you crank the engine, so you will not hear them with just key on (KO)

you changed the 8A fuse near the ECU, but did you check the fuse holder? If you still have the original bullet fuse holders they are troublesome, open it, check carefully (and one day do yourself a favor and replace it with a modern blade fuse holder)

thread below sounds similar to yours.....(unfortunately another unfinished thread of little use to those of us who tried to help, ungawunga just gone and disappeared on us;))
but at least there are some tips how to jump relay etc

86 spider no power to fuel pump relay
 

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When the key is turned to the first position, you should hear the relay engage, and the main fuel pump activate for a second or two, then turn off, which is to prime the fuel line forward of the pump with pressure for starting. If you don't hear the pump prime, but you know the pump is working, then its probably the relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When the key is turned to the first position, you should hear the relay engage, and the main fuel pump activate for a second or two, then turn off, which is to prime the fuel line forward of the pump with pressure for starting. If you don't hear the pump prime, but you know the pump is working, then its probably the relay.
When the key is turned to the first position, you should hear the relay engage, and the main fuel pump activate for a second or two, then turn off, which is to prime the fuel line forward of the pump with pressure for starting. If you don't hear the pump prime, but you know the pump is working, then its probably the relay.
ok latest update....both pumps run as should...key in position 1 they both activate for a sec and cut out . When starting (turning over ) main is running . Still no start did an ohm check on ignition distributor (Bosch blue) within spec . Battery 12+ at standing 11+ - at cranking.
All fuses good multimeter confirmation. No this is interesting spark plug tester on plugs. Checked all cylinders weak spark (gold color not blue) removed plugs (wet) cleaned reinstalled, no start .

suggestions as to next steps!
Thank you
VR
Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ok latest update....both pumps run as should...key in position 1 they both activate for a sec and cut out . When starting (turning over ) main is running . Still no start did an ohm check on ignition distributor (Bosch blue) within spec . Battery 12+ at standing 11+ - at cranking.
All fuses good multimeter confirmation. No this is interesting spark plug tester on plugs. Checked all cylinders weak spark (gold color not blue) removed plugs (wet) cleaned reinstalled, no start .

suggestions as to next steps!
Thank you
VR
Chris
Meant to add RML installed last summer ran great ! Did a little welding and forgot to disconnect the battery....
 

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It sounds like you have fuel and spark. Kind of odd that you can't even get a pop out of the engine. At this point, I think you have to go back to the basics. Is the fuel good? Is the ignition timing correct? Any chance of a mechanical issue? How are the compression numbers?
 

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Following up on 65Sprint's "back to basics" suggestion what actually worked for me this last week reviving my recently purchased 1986 Spider QV with similar symptoms after years of storage is as follows:

Removed old gas and add fresh gas in the tank. Disconnect the battery. Replaced new the fuel level sending unit along with a new in-tank fuel pump and attach a new filter/screen to the in-tank pump. Be sure, when installing the assembly in the tank, float arm is oriented correctly so it swings towards the starboard tire. Be very sure the filter/screen is “firmly” attached to the in-tank pump and is oriented in a direction opposite of the float arm. If not firmly attached, and the screen falls in the tank during install, you get to spend an hour fishing it out of the tank. Only to learn the next day after further reading in AlfaBB the filter screen connector ring is metal and I could have easily fished it out with a simple magnet. Replaced the in-line fuel pump and replaced the Bosch fuel filter. All the parts combined cost less than $200.00 with shipping. I reconnected the battery and the engine started right up, is running smoothly and the gas gauge now works.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok folks replaced the RML module still will not fire. Have fuel at rail. Plug to ground shows NO spark , plug with a tester shows a weak weak spark. Coil has 12 volts going to it when cranking .. what am I missing. Reset timing ?
 

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I just spent some time tracking down a poorly performing ignition, with weak spark, fouling plugs.
had 12v to coil OK.
Looks like coil was on the way out....Put a new one in....Strong spark and good shock when I grounded myself during testing, then vrooom, all is good.
Got a known good coil to swap in to test? The resistance on the old one still tested ok on a multimeter. Damned thing only lasted 53 years. I’m gonna write and complain.
 
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