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1985 Alfa Spider S3 USA Version
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm in the process of redoing the brakes at all four corners. Much to my surprise the disks sit behind the hubs, not in front like other cars I've worked on. In any case I positively, absolutely, cannot separate the disks from the hubs, after much beating with a copper hammer. Is there a secret? Do I need a torch?
 

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There are two 6mm screws. Remove those and they should come apart, though they could be rusted/stuck at the center hub part.
Andrew
 

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Take the locating screws off, then apply your favorite rubber mallet. Some heat application on the rotor hat could help.
 

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Did you pull the hub off the car?
 

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I don't want to step on the OP's thread but I was just going to start a thread on the same subject; I'm in the exact same situation. I can't remove the locating screws, they're frozen, rusted, or something. I've soaked for a week in PT Blaster, used heat, but they wont budge.

Best regards,
 

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I don't want to step on the OP's thread but I was just going to start a thread on the same subject; I'm in the exact same situation. I can't remove the locating screws, they're frozen, rusted, or something. I've soaked for a week in PT Blaster, used heat, but they wont budge.
Impact driver. If that doesn't work, then you'll likely need to drill out the screw heads and just install new screws when you put on the new discs.

FYI those screws aren't critical and are basically just there to hold things together during assembly. When you install the wheel that's what securely holds the disc to the hub.
 

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Impact driver. If that doesn't work, then you'll likely need to drill out the screw heads and just install new screws when you put on the new discs.

FYI those screws aren't critical and are basically just there to hold things together during assembly. When you install the wheel that's what securely holds the disc to the hub.
Good suggestion, maybe I can get a standard blade adapter for my electronic impact wrench.

Best regards,
 

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I would use a normal impact driver. It is a tool everyone should have in their kit.
It will remove just about any screw if you can get a decent swing to the hammer (which you can)

you should use the 'bit' that fits the screw slot correctly (front and rears have different screws, philips and normal)
the trick is to twist the driver a little till it comes to a stop then hit it with a BIG hammer......you want a big hammer, not some itsy-bitsy-thing for sticking a nail in the wall.

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I don't want to step on the OP's thread but I was just going to start a thread on the same subject; I'm in the exact same situation. I can't remove the locating screws, they're frozen, rusted, or something. I've soaked for a week in PT Blaster, used heat, but they wont budge.

Best regards,
It must have been the in thing to do because I also worked on my brakes this past weekend. I also had a seized locating screw. Imact drive did not work and ended up stripping the screw. After an hour of messing with it, I just drilled it out. Took just a minute and the head popped off.

Now my issue is getting the cylinders out of the caliper. I have tried compressed air but I can only get one out at a time. I tried silicone and a c-clamp but still no luck. To much air blows out of the open side and wont blow it out. And my back ones seem totally rusted in (not sure the brakes ever worked one of them).
 

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I'm in the process of redoing the brakes at all four corners. Much to my surprise the disks sit behind the hubs, not in front like other cars I've worked on. In any case I positively, absolutely, cannot separate the disks from the hubs, after much beating with a copper hammer. Is there a secret? Do I need a torch?
I had this same issue this weekend. On the fronts, I ended up having to take the center nut and bearings out. Once I did that, I was able to tap the disk off pretty easily. I thought perhaps thats what you are supposed to do, but reading this thread, apparently you should not have to?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I had this same issue this weekend. On the fronts, I ended up having to take the center nut and bearings out. Once I did that, I was able to tap the disk off pretty easily. I thought perhaps thats what you are supposed to do, but reading this thread, apparently you should not have to?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The disks and hubs are off the car. The screws are removed. The bearings are removed. No amount of hammering will separate the disk from the hub. I guess I'll try soaking them with P B Blaster. If that doesn't work, I'll find someplace that has a hydraulic press.
 

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Get a MAP torch and go to town on it. Nothing to lose save for an extremely corroded rotor that you don't want anyway.
 

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GETTING THE 10MM SCREWS OUT. If you have an oxy-acetylene torch, heat the screw head red hot and immediately quench with WD40 and take them out. Do this before you bugger up the head slot. Maybe propane or MAP gas will also be able to get to red hot.

Ken
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I have replaced both front and rear calibers and discs in the last 12 month
Here is how I did the front ones:


Jeroen
Thank you. So far I have used PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench, both left to soak overnight. No dice. Then I tried a MAPP gas torch, heating the disk for 15 minutes. No dice. Tomorrow I'm going to try to find someone local who has a hydraulic press.
 

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Dennis. in my mind it is all about physics. If you played with suction cup darts you know how hard it is to pull a dart straight off it's target. .. Stick a fingernail under it and off it popped. My bet is aa wedge in a vulnerable spot and not much ( The factory made recesses in the rotor for that) and pop goes the weasel.Hammering and deforming anything is not what I had in mind... I have heard of that getting propshafts off... Thanks Jim for the tip
 

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A penny worth of Never Seize, used by the previous installer, and you would be done and cruising. A word to the wise, is sufficient.
 
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