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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
It's a privilege to post here, it's been a goal of mine to own an Alfa someday, and I have attained that goal.

I come from the Nissan Z community and have spent the last couple of years building a monster Z that I love to death. It's time for the next project, and I am eager to tackle it. Forgive me if I draw comparisons to the Z32 in my thread, as it has left quite an impression.








This will be the first post of many documenting my efforts to restore/rebuild/upgrade my recently acquired 1985 GTV6. I love build threads, and will attempt to provide some entertainment to fellow gear heads and jalops.

I have a couple goals with this thread.

  • Entertain
  • Provide actual part numbers for parts I source
  • Provide lots of visual aids for others
  • Learn about the GTV6

I acquired this GTV6 from a kid in southeast Ohio. Maybe he will see this and realize I was serious about keeping this car rather than flipping it.

This Alfa needs a ton of work, it has some significant rust issues, but none that can't be overcome. I have never done sheet metal work, and will use this project to learn.

Phase 1 of this build will be to get it road worthy so I can enjoy driving it for the rest of this "season". Once the winter comes, I will knock it apart for a serious rebuild.

Enough yakking, on to the pics (enjoy!):

"Before" photos of the condition of the car as I bought it.







Like I said, it's a 1985.... are these the long torsion bars or the short?






It doesn't look too bad as far as rust underneath.


















Soaking bolts with Kroil


P.O. cut A/C lines....plans are to upgrade anyway




Radiator and fan upgrade on the horizon... radiator top support also rusted badly


With my Z32, I learned the value of bagging and tagging every nut and bolt, and LOTS of pictures!



In the past I had trouble re-assembling the hood latch on another car!






Will most likely update all this with a proper relay/power distribution block/enclosure.


I've already started dis-assembly to repair the cooling system and conduct a proper tune up and timing belt change. Those pics to follow shortly.

Thanks for looking....Cheers!
 

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I rootin' for ya Man!!
Any thing you want to know, ask us!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Started by tracing/tagging all the wiring.


Removed timing cover and accessory belts. Need to source a new timing cover or good used one, as mine is cracked around the bolt sleeves. Thoughts?





Removed the radiator. It was still in very good shape. However, I will be replacing with a new Jegs radiator, details to come.


Removed A/C compressor








Random shots of relays etc., to help me with parts identification in the near future.





I have more of the front of the car disassembled, I will check back in later. Cheers!
 

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Link to your Z32 thread? I like browsing threads with tones of pics just so i can see a journey...
 

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Looks like it should be an interesting project. Your car has the late "long" torsion bars. Note that the box mounts at the rear are not as strong as the earlier design, and if you fit thicker torsion bars, it is prone to failure especially if rusted like your is. Some preventative maintenance would be to reweld the mounts into the box section.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Continuing the disassembly of the front end.

Applied punchmarks/paint to timing sprockets, distributor drive gear, and crank pulley. I'm not overly sure about how the balancer/crank gear are assembled so I opted to leave them assembled.

Is there an online manual available?



I also removed the water pump/thermostat housing as a whole and will disassemble on the bench. I didn't want to break the bolts in the housing.



Removed the timing belt hydraulic tensioner. I will replace with the mechanical. My cursory searches have led me to believe that there are two schools of thought regarding rebuild vs. mechanical.

Also of note is how rotted the top radiator support is. I will be removing this and modifying it for the Jegs radiator.

I also removed the AC condenser. For this season I will run without AC, but during the winter, I will re-install and entirely new setup. Everyone says Milano compressor but no part numbers. I will investigate that and post the results as part of this thread.















Test fitting the Jegs radiator. Jegs part number 555-52010. As suggested from another post on this site. I knew I was going to have to repair the radiator top support anyway, so my plan is to remove the rot and fab a custom top bracket.

Plus I would like to get rid of the coolant container and use a standard overflow bottle. I will have to work out the heater hoses/circulation later. Anyone rerouted these before?





Removing the hood (bonnett), so I needed to document how it was shimmed.







Removed the rot on the upper radiator support.



I didn't go crazy with the cut off wheel, there is still some rot remaining, but I will massage that as I fit up the new support.




New top support mock up. Just to see if my concept will work. I am thinking that I will make it a bolt in design to faciliate removal, etc.





The top support is a piece of scrap I had laying around. It is slightly heavier gage than the original support. It's actually one of the original "flimsy" legs from my sandblaster that I installed heavier legs on.

Coming up: My radiator fans work, but they make a racket. So I bought the Sard dual fan setup that is detailed in one of the posts on this bb. Part number Spal 30102052.

For control I bought the dual fan relay and 185deg single switch from the Hollister Road Company website. They also sell a stainless steel 1 1/2" radiator hose adapter for the temperature switch. Part numbers: D4060SXLAC (for the switch); "Stainless Switch Adaptor Single" 1/2" x 4" for the switch adapter. I will post pics of this setup in the near future.

Finally, jazig.k asked for a link to the Z32 build thread. There is no build thread for it, unfortunately. For that car, I frequent twinturbo.net, and that site is not setup in a standard forum setup, so build threads cannot be posted and maintained. If you want to see pics of the Z32 build, you can click on the links to my flikr account and one of the sets if for the Z.

As always, thanks and Cheers!
 

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Its hard to tell from the pictures you posted, but it looks like you might have rust in a critical area... the shock towers . The fans you purchased work fantastic, big improvement over the old ones.
 

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With regards to the TB tensioner . . . I'd avoid the troublesome mechanical tensioner and rebuild the hydraulic tensioner (with instructions and rebuild kit from Jason at Alfissimo.com). Or, modify your hydraulic one to a fixed tensioner. There are several extensive threads on this subject that go into this subject in great detail.

How about a pic of the man behind the camera?
 

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Good work man!
I agree with roadtrip on the tensioner.
It looks like you may have to drop the radiator down a little for the hood to clear it?
 

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I'd be interested to learn more about your radiator upgrade as an individual project. Here in Central Texas, where it's 100+ degrees for 90 days of the year, improved cooling would definitely be a positive.
This thread excites me. Good work! I dig the Z, too. I think if I were to pick a 90s car, it would be a Z32 of an FD RX7. Probably the Z...
 

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I'm impressed with your approach and progress already.

I think the valve covers on your car are from the first GTV series, 1981 through 1983, which makes absolutely no difference, other than they're easier to clean than the later ones.

If you haven't already absorbed the number one rule when encountering less than stellar performance, please note that Alfa's use of sheet metal screws into sheet metal for multiple grounds was not entirely wise.

And, I have a thermal switch bypass ground that I can use to force the fans on constantly; it's been handy more than once!

Go for it!
 

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I also agree on the detensioner. You have some shots of the rusty body areas you need to work on? I assume one or both of the lower front fenders?

Kevin
 

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Not sure where you are located but I am outside of Allentown PA and have stripped 2 GTV6's over the years and have a collection of spares if you need anything.

Michael Conrey
Germansville, PA
610-800-6723
 

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Great looking project - hope to keep tabs on it!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
New update. Not a great visible update, but I removed some miscellaneous brackets. Trimmed more of the upper rad support to facilitate fitting the radiator, and did some very minor rust repairs.

AlfafaninNY mentioned that the shock towers looked rotted. It was only minor surface rust that I sanded and painted.

Zinhead: thank you for the advice regarding the rear torsion bar mounts, I will definitely address those.

kredden: The worst body rust is lower front wings behind the front wheels. Also, the rear bumper mounts need some work. Overall, not too bad with serious rot, although it could use a complete strip and paint.

Reminder: These repairs are temporary so I can have some fun with the car before the winter. Then I will do some comprehensive restoration/modifications.


Some more BFH work to allow the radiator to sit a tad lower.


Degrease the engine and test fit the new water pump assembly to check for clearances with the radiator/fan setup.


"Rust repairs" I sanded, primed, and painted the areas of the engine bay that needed it most. Note: there is still a bunch of rotted metal on the upper rad support that will need attention this winter.




Removed the AC drier bracket and what I believe was an AC filter


Repaired shock tower rust


Radiator, silicone reducing elbow 1-3/4" to 1-1/2" (HPS Black 1.5" - 1.75" 38mm - 45mm 4-Ply Silicone 90 Degree Elbow Reducer Hose) from eBay. eBay listing number 390531914374, stainless radiator hose adapter, and the relays/switch that I mentioned in an earlier post.

I trimmed both the reducing elbow and the OEM hose for the modification. Pics of that to come shortly.


More shots of the trimming required. I bent the side air deflectors to allow the radiator to sit more towards the front of the car.


















MSD Blaster 2 coil mounted in stock location with some socket head screws I had laying around. The coil is part number "MSD Ignition 8202 Blaster 2 Hi-Performance Coil", I bought mine from Amazon.


I hope to make some good progress on it today and tomorrow, and may have a very slim chance of getting it on the road this weekend.

Have a good holiday.

Cheers
 

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I like the color of that car. Wheels go well too. Can you post the code? it's located on the underside of the hatch, usually on a silver plate.

Because of all the contours on these cars they have several water traps. i think you've dicovered the one in the nose.

The shocktower rust shouldn't be dismissed too quickly. If you see bubbling or rust, most likely it's coming from the other side. If you reach-in inside the fenderwell, you'll see that it has no liner and there's a nice long flat spot or "shelf" as it were, for dirt, leaves, and moisure to hang around. Also a nice spot for critters to get in out of the rain.

That's what I see on your passenger side. The drivers side looks to be surface rust from leaking brake master. Brake fluid will take off the paint and the raw steel will oxidize pretty quickly in the engine compartment.

The electrics are a whole 'nother ball game. just spent the last couple/three weekends working on mine!
 

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