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Discussion Starter #101
With a new timing belt, I have to tighten slightly after the first 300 km and then the tension remains perfect over time.

Always check the voltage with the engine cold
The idler cam between the camshafts is a good indication of the right tension, if the idler cam turns with your finger you have to tight more

This mechanical tension system is really good because it is easy to tension the belt to the desired tension.
I start my third timing belt with this tensioner modified and it's always the best for me :)
Thanks for sharing your experience with your modified tensioner. So your engine has never vibrated that bolt loose? I will be close to stock tension hopefully, so being too tight when the engine is hot should not be a problem. I will try out your suggestion on testing belt tension by the upper idler bearing between the intake camshafts.
 

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I agree. I would think about using a large Nyloc (elastic stop) nut for a more failsafe setup.
 

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I put a washer grower and the bolt never unscrewed.

The most important point is to check the first 300 km the belt tension, tight slightly if necessary during this period.

Then the tension stabilizes, as if the belt has "break-in" during this period. Once this break-in ends, the tension of your belt will remain correct for a very long time.
 

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Discussion Starter #105
Made some more progress over last weekend. Fitted a new cover for the alternator buss bar, 3d printed with ABS plastic. It might not hold up well, time will tell. The headers are Jet-Hot coated in their classic polished finish. It is some serious eye candy. The workmanship on the headers is top notch, thanks again to Jim K for having them made for us transaxle 24 valvers! I ended up milling a small jig to drill through the head of my large 16mm tensioner bolt. I sleep better at night knowing its safety wired in place.

Finally got to install our very hard to find Ricambi Originali SZ starter motor (same as the 75 3.0L Potenziata - Motronic starter) to fit the new headers. Then we got the engine in the car finally. Hopefully it will be in there for some time. The new heater hose outlet on the back of the engine turned out nice. Its much more compact then the original setup and allows the engine to be tilted back much further when in the engine bay. That was a huge problem when fitting the driveshaft last time. I had to assemble the spline shaft coupler and front guibo within the confines of the driveshaft tunnel and tail housing as it wouldn't go in assembled. The old 12v would tip back when you pulled down on the tail housing, the 24v did not because the coolant outlet hit the throttle linkage. That is why the engine came out and went back in with the front guibo still attached. I think that problem has been resolved. The engine tipped much more forward and backward when installing the massive header lower sections.

If you notice in the pictures I made a handling rod for the back of the engine to steer it into position. I saw one in our old GTV6 repair manual and figured it would be useful to have a replica. If you are pulling/installing these engines without one you are missing out! I will try and take a picture of the official Alfa tool and share it with everyone. Once the rod enters the driveshaft tunnel it steers the engine into place almost. Next up is fitting the Spal fans to the new radiator and installing everything back into the engine bay, along with the driveshaft and custom exhaust and finally dyno tuning. Im hoping to have all of that done by the end of Summer. Hope everyone is healthy and enjoys the pictures.
























 

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Spectacular!!!
 

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I was just contemplating rearranging the under hood electrical arrangement. Good to know that it made a difference.
 
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