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Hi

I put away my 1983 spider two years ago. When i put it away it ran fine. Brought it home and cleaned her up. Honestly seemed like everything came though the storage just fine. There were 2 mice nests i had to vacuum out but all in all not bad. (i bring up the mice because that may be a clue latter) Just to level set, when i put the car away, I stabled the gas, filled up the tank, pulled the battery and changed the oil.

When i pulled out the car tried to start it, i had no spark. So i quickly started the diagnosis. Here is what i found.

The facts
1. Coil has 12 volts on the positive side.
2. When i crank it over the light flashes (i think that is correct)
3. Strangely the lights will not turn off (dont know if that is related or not)
4. The rotor tunes, so the cams are turning
5. There is clear evidence of mice. But that is the easy way out!
6. When i let off the key after cranking it over i have sometimes seen a spark. (it does not do it every time, i can find no pattern)

What i have done.
1. Changed the coil (got a sexy yellow one) = no change
2. Hot wired the negative side of the coil = No change
3. Checked the ECU and it has power (dont know if that means anything)
4. Checked the fly wheel sensor, I can find no evidence of it getting any sort of power from the ECU, assuming that is where it comes from, but i do have a good ground.
5. Hit the ECU with a rock, because i could not find a hammer. = No change

Before i burn the car does anyone have any suggestions as i am ready to part this one out or just sell it for a parts car. That would be very very very sad.:shy:

Thanks
Brian
 
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My 2 cents

Hi bimholte -
My input might not be THE most technically accurate here on the bb, but I can share what I went through (or the most important part of it).
I had a similar episode this spring with my '83 Spider after getting her out of hibernation from a Maine winter; just went dead in the neighbor's driveway like someone shot it in the head.
I went through a lot of testing and sniffing about, but what I think did the trick was replacing the fuel relay next to the ECU (black, ~2" tall, 1" square). That helped significantly but the car did die again. It could be started with my manual choke (replaces AAV) fully out, but ran badly.
So I replaced both fuel filters and crossed my fingers...and all has been spiffy ever since.
I can direct you to my post, but searching for posts on the fuel relay and how to test it with a jumper would probably be more effective for getting the ol' girl up and running.

Don't give up...she's just testing your committment!
 

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When i let off the key after cranking it over i have sometimes seen a spark.
This is a clue that your system voltage may be low during cranking. The computers must get about 10.5V to wake up & send the make spark/squirt fuel. It can sound like it is cranking over well but system voltage could easily drop below that threshold and thus no spark. Clean all connections in the battery to starter circuit and charge up the battery. Connect a voltmeter to the battery and see what it reads during cranking (do not rely on a dash gauge if it has one).

Checked the fly wheel sensor, I can find no evidence of it getting any sort of power from the ECU, assuming that is where it comes from, but i do have a good ground.
The flywheel sensors do not 'get power' from the ECU, they merely send a sense signal. Info on checking the flywheel sensors (and a lot more) is in the L-jetronic Spider Diagnosis page - see link below.
 

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Hi

I put away my 1983 spider two years ago. When i put it away it ran fine. Brought it home and cleaned her up. Honestly seemed like everything came though the storage just fine. There were 2 mice nests i had to vacuum out but all in all not bad. (i bring up the mice because that may be a clue latter) Just to level set, when i put the car away, I stabled the gas, filled up the tank, pulled the battery and changed the oil.

When i pulled out the car tried to start it, i had no spark. So i quickly started the diagnosis. Here is what i found.

The facts
1. Coil has 12 volts on the positive side.
2. When i crank it over the light flashes (i think that is correct)
3. Strangely the lights will not turn off (dont know if that is related or not)
4. The rotor tunes, so the cams are turning
5. There is clear evidence of mice. But that is the easy way out!
6. When i let off the key after cranking it over i have sometimes seen a spark. (it does not do it every time, i can find no pattern)

What i have done.
1. Changed the coil (got a sexy yellow one) = no change
2. Hot wired the negative side of the coil = No change
3. Checked the ECU and it has power (dont know if that means anything)
4. Checked the fly wheel sensor, I can find no evidence of it getting any sort of power from the ECU, assuming that is where it comes from, but i do have a good ground.
5. Hit the ECU with a rock, because i could not find a hammer. = No change

Before i burn the car does anyone have any suggestions as i am ready to part this one out or just sell it for a parts car. That would be very very very sad.:shy:

Thanks
Brian
well... there are normal and rational diagnostic procedures that you should follow but before we get into those, whatever you do, don't hotwire the neg side of the coil again...

now... second bit of sage advice.... don't shotgun this. even tho its an 83, it is still electronically controlled. that means that every connection has to be clean and good, the battery has to be good and able to crank the motor fast without ripping the surface charge off it. if it were mine and i was standing there, i would drain the fuel which is now garbage no matter what you put in it, change the filters are previously suggested, take the inlet tract apart as necessary to make sure no one is living in there, pull the plugs out and shoot a little corrosion x or wd 40 in there and spin it over freely for a bit until the pressure comes up and while i was doing that i woud observe if there was any spark at the plugs by sticking one in the end of a wire and grounding it while someone spins it. if no spark, then you get yourself a workshop manual and follow the diagnostics for a " no spark condition " but looking at connections and wires and bad grounds is always the first place to start...
 
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