My co-worker, who sets up private track days, has set one up for Thunderhill in May, and Laguna Seca in December. So we'll be shooting for the December date at Laguna Seca. I've always wanted to run that track. I've spent more days then I want to remember at Thunderhill (went to SCCA school there) so I won't be too upset about missing that outing. If I have my choice, I'd rather run at Sears Point. You can dance with that track.
I've got my professional mechanic buddy coming over to help me suss out the electrical problem, on Saturday. Tonight I'll finish the first phase of cleaning out the workshop, tomorrow and Friday I'll get the GTV6 back in, yank the plenum and fix the rear Rube-Goldbergian oil-line oil leak. That will also allow me to replace the plenum hoses with the ones I purchased a while back.
It's time to get this thing back up and running. The Acura is competent but boring...I need some Busso music.
I own 8 V6s, and this is the only one with the crazy rear oiling hose set up. Can anyone think of a reason not to just return it to original spec...plugging the extraneous hose outlets and returning the oil pressure sender to original (non-t'd) arrangement?
external oil hose setup was a "kill it with a sledge hammer" solution. I would think reversing it would not create a problem. But I think the original oil feed from the block to the head may have been blocked off when the external hoses were installed. The O ring around the original feed was the leaking issue culprit. I think it was not supported by a roll pin in the early engines. Of course you don't want to eliminate oil getting up to the cam, so you would need to remove the blocking screw and reinstall the O ring. This means pulling the heads.
I have never experienced the original oil leak issue and have no experience with the bypass kit. I am just going off my (sometimes failing) memory of what I have read. Certainly I am a proponent of the original set up, with the roll pin supporting the O-ring. This set up has worked well for me.
Bob, as I recall you had some pretty good looking hose and fittings on that, right? Do you think the hose bend radius was maybe too tight? I seem to recall the photo you posted.... Containing hot motor oil at 50 or 60 psi should be no big deal, compared to real hydraulic system pressures.
Dave, the hoses are new, I don't think they are the problem. I think that the fittings are leaking at the block and heads. I'll completely pull the plenum off and get down in there to R&R. If I recall, the fitting stack to make it all work has 9+- joints. Plenty of places to leak.
It's a bit disconcerting to be sitting at the on-ramp meters and have smoke start to billow out from under the car...LOL
Well I've got the ****s on, I've just had the rear hatch repainted and removed the rear hatch barrel lock to have it painted properly I've worked out how the barrel and lock go together but how do you get that stupid rubber seal back on ,its to tight to get through the opening on the hatch and...
I have a set of freshly rebuilt rear calipers (sent out for rebuild) that I have got in place and hooked up on my 75 alfetta.
Once brake fluid was in the system and mostly bled the inboard adjustment screws (the two adjusters with the 7mm head without any locknut closest to the differential)...
Seeking advice on a horn that blows constantly. Background: I replaced the steering wheel on my 86 GTV6 with an aftermarket similar to a Nardi. Prior to the steering wheel removal the horn was inoperative. With the new wheel, I made a shim for the copper ring to make it extend far enough to...
Hi - Like so many others, i've given up using basic human capabilities to remove the Steering Wheel on my parts car GTV6. Seeing the many threads out there on this topic, i'm sure that many of you have fabricated or bought something that you have used to overcome the otherworldly forces binding...