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Discussion Starter #1,001 (Edited)
1,000th POST!!!!!!

On the occasion of the 1,000 post to this thread. Just a reminder of where we started:
 

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Discussion Starter #1,002
I dont know where you're getting $500 for a pair of rear calipers at centerline. They're $159 each...and they're the real deal, properly zinc plated like ATE did them. I've scrutinized those centerline rear calipers before, including a full teardown on a supplied caliper and they're the best available from any vendor I've seen. And I've seen many.
Centerline also sells the split caliper o rings. Part number BK480. Pricey but they're the right ones. I've bought some before that are the wrong size but were close...they leaked.

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Ooops, my bad. Included the core charges.
 

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What I can't quite tell is how much space there is between the flange on your tool and the top of the wheel. Bob

Thank you for this important point. When I read this I sheepishly thought “**** you, Physics, foiled again!” I thought for sure this was the answer. Went home, reset the flange with proper space and gave it a go. But still, no luck.

If you do have space, then it's a case of lubrication, persuasive tightening and wacking the center pin with a hammer.
Bob

Have been at it for a several days. Deploying more lubricant and patience. I will say that I have really whacked at the back of the wheel quite hard with a hammer as well (backside of spokes, with protective cover and as close as possible to center), but zero sign of progress. Maybe need to look for that Alfa specific puller next but for now I will keep at it.

Justin



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Discussion Starter #1,004
Have been at it for a several days. Deploying more lubricant and patience. I will say that I have really whacked at the back of the wheel quite hard with a hammer as well (backside of spokes, with protective cover and as close as possible to center), but zero sign of progress. Maybe need to look for that Alfa specific puller next but for now I will keep at it.

Justin
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You can't heat it with a torch, the damage to all the plastics would be devastating. I wonder if you could try one of the "Freeze-off" products? You'd just have to be careful with all the plastic while it's brittle.

Send me a PM with your address. The Alfa specific tool is a loaner from my patron saint in Richmond. I have a number of loaner items I need to get back to him, and maybe we can arrange a date wherein I can swing by and give it a go.

Bob
 

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1984 Maratona "Ran when parked..."

Jubrele...If it's the latter...I don't think you do have the right threads (6mm metric, IIRC). Best check that, or you could make life even harder. If the all-threads are deforming, use bolts instead.

With this suggestion I went and picked up a 6mm metric threaded rod but it slides right in-too small. Or maybe it was correct and I have destroyed my threads with the 1/4” fine thread I was using and that seemed like a good fit. Can’t find a long enough bolt due to that integrated hub. I’ve got the center nut loose but still on the threads, and I’ve got a larger wrench for some leverage but the threads slip before it gets super strong. Will get after it again tonight.




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Removing the steering wheel. My experience with whacking the wheel away from the column is that no matter how hard you try in that direction the blows have little effect. The wheel and column deflect too much to transfer energy to the joint. More effective whacking is to tighten the center bolt of the puller to the maximum you think is safe, then whack directly onto the center bolt of the puller - towards the wheel. Nice sharp whacks with a decently weighted brass hammer or dead blow.

Best of luck.
 

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Yeah. Thats what I meant in my post. It should have said whack the end of the puller bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,008
Went over to the Parker hydraulics store today. We'll see how things go tomorrow. It would be helpful to have the vapor blaster together but that's not going to happen for a couple of weeks.

Plan is to get the calipers back together and be back driving the car this weekend. I've got the exhaust ready to go back in, with heat wrap. Found another heat shield to polish (yes, it's an affliction..I even cleaned and polished the cat shield while I have it up in the air, probably has something to do with my prior experience with turbo cars).

It appears that I may have picked up yet another Alfa...but we won't get distracted here.
 

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Is anybody going to say that maybe you might have too many, lol?

Still... Always Looking For Another, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #1,010
Miscellaneous progress photos:
 

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Discussion Starter #1,011
A few more:

(Please note that part # ending in 205 is not correct)
 

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Hey Bob, glad you have a Parker store nearby-- Parker Hannifin Corporation's my old alma mater. Hydraulics and pneumatics heaven.
Hope they had EPDM compound rings in stock for you.

Terrific photos too, like always! That insulation wrap on that pipe kickup there is the easiest and best favor a GTV 6 owner can do for that LH caliper.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,014
Dave, they are always extremely helpful. I thought that they'd run me out of the place, given the small order I intended to place, as well as the itty bitty o-ring I was looking for. Nope, very congenial gentleman, took all the time necessary to get it done.

Mike, I think you'll like it...it's already running and driving. My son is taking the Acura to Texas, so I need something that works.

Well, today has been a mixed bag. Let's just say that the hubris of easy deconstruction can be balanced by the humility of reconstruction. But after going through the headbanging learning curve, the second caliper should go together much easier, tomorrow. Observation, and attention to detail is so necessary with these cars. Anytime I'm in a hurry, I invariably lose.

I cleaned up a set of rotors, and painted the non-important surfaces to control rust, leaving outside the shop to dry. Only to have an unexpected cloudburst rain on my parade. :( As a result, more rust removal tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,015
LOL

:(

I knew I put the caliper-half seals in a "special place". As we all know, when you do that, you don't ever find the part you need until after you've given up and purchased a replacement. So it goes here.

Now after 4 hours of looking, in three different places, I will be making a call tomorrow to order new ones.

Yet again, I think it's time to put a box on a conspicuous wall, with a big sign pointing at said box stating "special place". Maybe with neon flashing lights. Audio should play that repeats "look in here, dummy". Triggered the first time you enter the area, and every hour (minimum) that you stay in the area.

I did find a lot of other items...but I'll forget by tomorrow morning.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,016
And.....wouldn't you know it, they are on back order. Drat!!
 

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Discussion Starter #1,017
Fantastic, seals have shipped. We can get back on track next week.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,018
Crazy thought for the day:

How can I apply the Coanda effect to intake port shape...and specifically the short side radius?
 

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Discussion Starter #1,019 (Edited)
On reflection, it might just be a pipe dream. Flow in an engine is chaotic, and the velocities vary greatly.

And yet, if you were to calculate the shape based on your max velocity, it should still work at the lower velocities.

Arrrgghhhh. The things that keep my mind spinning.

Perhaps, cut a port in half, port it to shape, provide a spacer that accounts for the material removed, bolt it all back together and then use some flowvis to spray into the port while flowing it on the bench. Lather, rinse, repeat.
 

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Those sorts of analyses has been done for many decades (as I'm sure you know, of course), and there are many old and new books which discuss intake and exhaust manifolding, and the matching porting in engine heads, with regards the relative airflow in them. Nowadays, computer programs for fluid flow analysis are so sophisticated, much of the design work is done on the computer, only sometimes checked for accuracy afterwards.

Granted much of what you see, esp in older engines, in the way of intake and exhaust piping shapes, and head porting design, have compromises for different subjects, such as manufacturing ease, item cost, and noise reduction. In many cases, these designs can be improved, for a cost, of course. And, it seems that there will likely be at least one drawback somewhere along the way in some aspect in doing so. Complicated subject. Keep in mind, the airflow in and also out of cam controlled reciprocating engines have inherent pulses in them, more or less at different flow velocities, to add to the design mix.

An example of a manufacturer improving an exhaust manifold for higher efficiency appears to be the difference between the 91/92/93 164 cast exhaust manifolds and the 94/95 (and on) 164 tubular steel manifolds. Lighter and one can assume more efficient, albeit somewhat noisier, due to less noise dampening than the cast iron version (I like the work pinino did with his adapting a later 164 tubular exhaust manifold to the earlier 164s).

I've always suspected that the Alfa heads and manifolds have been not all that bad, based on my discussions with Carlo, although assuredly, cleanup/change improvements are possible to a degree. I also suspect some of them are simply feel good exercises, amateur guesses at best.

I am quite sure that you would find that the new engines are far more efficient in their designs than our older Alfas, much better than the 164s we have in the US. The manufacturers have no choice in the matter, given the present day (and upcoming) regulations.
 
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