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Hot park brake handle is not an unusual situation. Wife's cell phone was unhappy in the console and the shelf below the glove box (non-A/C) during our latest 1250 mile jaunt. Thin wall headers I have on the car probably don't help, but at least I don't have a cat adding heat below. If you find a good resolution, I will likely copy.
 

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Discussion Starter #662
I'll probably start by wrapping the downpipes all the way to the Cat, plug any and all holes and see about any shielding additions that might be advantageous. Then pull the carpeting and insulate the tunnel.


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Discussion Starter #663
Just 'cause:
 

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Discussion Starter #664
The column switch continues to be a source of amusement. It's a bit of a "Forrest Gump", you don't know what you're going to get from one day to the next. Today, the left turn signal works like gangbusters, but the right has taken the day off. LOL In addition, the low beam is staying in the up position instead of falling to the high beam.

I need to get this worked out before I try and aim the beams.

Bob
 

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Are your bulb sockets in good nick, corrosion free with good pressure still from the sprung power supply tabs under the sockets?
I've played the 'guess which lights will work today' game with my Alfetta, and a quick wiggle of the bulbs confirmed the culprit was back there, not the switches.

Don't know if this can be a problem with these cars, but on a non-Alfa we owned, worn-off brass shards from the contacts (just from long term wear) stuck in the grease allowed sporadic tracking of power to places you don't want it
 

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Discussion Starter #666
What a pisser...brakes went soft as I was driving the last several miles to work. Luckily I have a tire and brake store about a block from my office. Dropped it off, there, with the request that they give it a once over, fill and bleed the brakes. They said "you know we can't get any parts for this car". My response was that they were just trying to get me home, and if they thought it wouldn't make it that I'd be calling AAA.

First thing anyone with a vintage vehicle should get after the initial purchase is a AAA card.
 

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Sounds like a typical chain store reply. We all know parts are just a phone call away 90%of the time. (Thanks Centerline)
I guess I’d have just called AAA in the first place.
 

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Discussion Starter #669
Well...they think it's the master cylinder/booster. They did manage to bleed it and run enough fluid through it to give it some pedal. I'll leave work early and nurse it home. That work was on the list, so not really a change in direction.
 

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Booster would make the pedal harder but brakes still work, just much more leg effort.
If bleeding helped then probably a master unless you see an obvious leak else where.
Careful getting it home but that’s exactly what I’d do :)
 

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If you’re gonna do it anyway I recommend replacing the lines with braided steel ones. The old lines can deteriorate internally and you’ll like the peadal feel much more.
 

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Discussion Starter #672
Booster would make the pedal harder but brakes still work, just much more leg effort.
If bleeding helped then probably a master unless you see an obvious leak else where.
Careful getting it home but that’s exactly what I’d do :)
I tend to agree. I'll order a master cylinder and install. I'll pull a vacuum on the booster and see if it's any good.

Brake lines on the front are brand new, although not stainless braided. I've got a new one for the rear also.
 

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Discussion Starter #673
And....the wedding is over and the family is gone. My son and daughter-in-law are on the way to Hawaii.

So we're back to the regular program. Top on the list is dealing with the brake issue. Then I need to deal with the drivability issues of controlling the heat in the passenger compartment and the headlights and turn signals. I picked up the battery cable connector box from Peter...very nice part, thanks. So that will deal with a part that has been very troubling.

I'm thinking of tinting the windows, as an additional heat control device. Does anyone have any experience with that? I haven't gone to get quotes, yet.

I'm at bit unhappy that my backside is bigger than the seat is meant to handle. Or, at least as reupholstered. I'll eventually need to deal with that.

As ever, consistent work will get us where we need to go.
Bob
 

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I'll pull a vacuum on the booster and see if it's any good.
If it will not hold a vacuum then it is bad but holding a vacuum does not guarantee that it is good. There are valves in there that can fail.
 

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Discussion Starter #675
If it will not hold a vacuum then it is bad but holding a vacuum does not guarantee that it is good. There are valves in there that can fail.
Good to know. I can't tell you how much I appreciate you sharing your experience. There are several ways to learn, learning from others is one of the best.
 

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Discussion Starter #676
Well, I'll be.

A bit of positive serendipity. The brake master cylinder that I purchased for the GTV, but haven't installed yet, fits the GTV6. So, I'm ahead of the game instead of waiting for a part. Oh if this project had worked like this from the beginning...

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #677
Picked an original Maratona brochure from Europe. I didn't think I'd ever see one of these, let alone be able to obtain one.
 

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Discussion Starter #678
I went down to Richmond and visited with William. He had some spare parts and a tool that made removing the steering wheel not much more than a tighten and tap (with several increasingly energetic blows) operation. Thankfully, his busted column switch was the exact flip-side of mine. So, I should be able to put together a switch that works correctly. My headlight switch doesn't work, his turn signal stalk and canceling mechanism had broken. I'll frankenstein something together. But...no zip ties.

Pulling the horn cover is pretty easy, just grip the edges and pull it off. It takes 4 screws to take off the horn ring, there are two different lengths, corresponding to the different colors. Once that is off, you just have to pull the grounding wire connector off the ring. (dog gone it, the pictures rotated...just rotate them with your mind, :laugh2:)
 

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Discussion Starter #679 (Edited)
With that out of the way, you can easily get to the nut. I loosened it up, but left it with all the threads engaged.

Taking the tool that I borrowed, I removed the all-thread from the tool and screwed them into the threaded holes provided at the base of the steering wheel. Then it was just a case of installing the all-thread threw the slots in the tool, tightening the all-thread nuts and snugging the tool against the steering shaft. I did lubricate the all the threads. No reason to fight friction.

A couple of wacks with a small ball peen and the steering wheel was loose.

I thought I was going to need to mark the steering shaft and the wheel in order to make sure they were properly realigned, but either that was done at the factory, or someone else has been here. You can just make out the dimples.
 

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Discussion Starter #680
With the steering wheel removed...the usual electrical tomfoolery is revealed. I know I shouldn't be surprised anymore but "one can only hope!"

Someone had tried the fix the headlight switch, but put it back together with zip-ties, a large wire lead was just twisted together and then badly taped.

When I went to find the other end of the switch wiring, I found a relay in the fuse box that had its cover badly taped back on. SMH
 

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