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Discussion Starter #641
The '66 was a beautiful car. Red with a white top, 327, 4 speed, posi rear.

Sold it to finance my second attempt at college...things went much better as I had changed my major from drunk and belligerent to accounting.
 

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Know what is like.
It took me two attempts to get the degree.
The first was for partying, the second was to work.
:)
 

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Discussion Starter #643
Looks like the steering wheel has to come off and the combo switch will probably need to be replaced. I spent entirely too much time today trying to get the left turn signal to work. I finally grabbed a flashlight and took a good look at the switch...it has clearly overheated in the past. I read several steering wheel removal threads, doesn't look fun.

I also spent some time painting and preparing the rear bumper. I cut and shortened the rear bumper shocks. My eyesight continues to deteriorate...which means that my welding is doing the same. Time for new glasses and a cheater lense for my helmet. IF you can't see the puddle, you can't weld. Growing old isn't for the weak.

Well, after eyesight, memory is the thing I miss the most. Can't find the bolts to the bumper. I took off the bracket so that I can go to the good hardware store tomorrow to find bolts that will fit.

I aim to drive this thing to work on Thursday, come hell or high water. I will probably be using hand signals to turn left. LOL

Bob
 

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Fear not, Bob... the steering wheel and combination switches are not insurmountable. A small puller will get the wheel off, and the combo switch assembly retaining screws are obvious. Disconnect both sides, the wiper and turn signal/lights, and the entire thing lifts out.

Now... this is where you might want your new glasses. Don't disassemble the turn signal side unless you have it inside a box, or a towel or something draped around to catch any springs or pieces that might jump outa there. It's been three years, but I recall there is a cam ring that cancels the turn signal, and a set of fingers that are spring loaded. I actually was successful in gently filing a new contour onto the cam ring to cancel the left turn signal, on Mike's car. And re-assembly required my darlin' wife to help with another hand, to hold things together.

I used a toothpick with conductive grease to lube the spring loaded brass contacts, holding them down with a small pick. I then gently exercised the switch to get it moving freely again. Made a lot of difference.

Of course, if the contacts are burned badly enough, that switch is toast anyway. Your call when you get in there. But my point is, you'll see how it all works when you look at it, Bob. There's excellent info here on the BB about the combo switch, from folks who are a lot better than I am in refurbishing them. And APE is a good source for a good used switch assembly, also.
 

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What's with the left turn signal?! Mine is damaged too., but the right signal works perfectly. Maybe the GTV6 is a right winger. Bad joke. Insert other bad joke about turning left aka nascar here.

Bob, Dave is right. You'll get it done. I have a few parts switches hanging around if you need parts too...

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Just to let you know Bob, I have a steering wheel puller made for Alfa and I think maybe an extra steering column for a GTV6, with switches. Extra shroud somewhere too. I think there were 2 different shrouds for the GTV6. I'll check, give me a text if interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #647
Just to let you know Bob, I have a steering wheel puller made for Alfa and I think maybe an extra steering column for a GTV6, with switches. Extra shroud somewhere too. I think there were 2 different shrouds for the GTV6. I'll check, give me a text if interested.
Sounds like another visit is in order!

Bob
 

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I meant to say also, Bob, a liberal spraying of contact cleaner inside the works of that switch is step one. Work the levers as you spray. Then after it flashes off, do the conductive grease dabs.
 

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Discussion Starter #649
I purchased that contact enhancer that you recommended. I'll use that also.


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Discussion Starter #650
Results of cutting down the bumper shocks.

I cut out 1.5 inches, looks like I could cut about another inch out. However, to suck the bumper in that far, I'd need to also cut and reweld the stock tow hooks. I might try and find some other way to fill the gap.
 

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Discussion Starter #651
Last night, I took the car out after dark to see how the lights, etc., worked. The goal was to gain the confidence to drive the car to work today.

Well, the headlights worked, but only on high beam as they were horrendously aimed. That will take some work to fix. The inner lights are not hooked up as I didn't realize that they came without bulbs. It worked out fine, however, as the outers were aimed so far down that not a single person flashed me for having the high beams on. I'll start looking for some buckets that aren't all buggered up.

The turn signals have a mind of their own. Sometimes they work, briefly, sometimes they don't. Sometimes the left signal works, but the right signal doesn't, or vice versa. Makes for a bit of a clown show. LOL At the same time, they seem to be working a bit more consistently as they are used more. Still, I'll pull that part apart and do some work.

I drove for about 30 minutes last night, which equates to about 60% of a drive to work. Sooooo....
 

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Discussion Starter #652
With one seat, one seat belt, no tach or speedo (funny, the odometer clicks away but no speed is shown), intermittent turn signals and an Oh Crap box of stuff in the back I took off a bit after peak traffic. I only used the freeway for a very short length, sticking to country roads and a glorious ride on the Sacramento River levee roads.

It was a blast, and all I could think was how much better this car is (in its current incomplete state) than the Acura TL on the same roads. I can't wait to test the stickiness of these tires when I'm fully confident about its condition.

And yes, Pete, we're getting close to rolling the GTV back into the workshop.

Bob
 

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Bob, that rear filler piece for the bumper is made in two sections IIRC, and maybe there's a way you could just use the center section only. Forget the sides altogether, the part that lays atop the rubber end caps. Slice them off. Can you attach the center sections back into the holes there in the pan, and slide the pieces UNDER the bumper instead of them laying on top of the bumper, as originally designed? That would close up that gap somewhat, and conceal the holes.

It still looks much better than stock, with that #@*&% bumper hanging out there three feet!

BTW your switch issues sound more like lousy grounds than anything else, or dirty bulb sockets maybe.
 

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Discussion Starter #654
Hmmmm, I'll check the grounds. That always seems to be the first thing to do.

I'll also check the stock fill-in pieces.
 

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Discussion Starter #656

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With one seat, one seat belt, no tach or speedo (funny, the odometer clicks away but no speed is shown), Bob
Are the speedo a tach needle ends bent inward towards the gauge faces? If so, this an odd but classic symptom of the GTV6 gauge needles. Neither of these gauges worked on my '81 when I first bought I, so after reading about the stuck/dragging needle issue on this forum, I first carefully re-bent the needles and filed the ends a bit and they worked. Eventually they dragged again so I bought this based on a tip from AlfaBB:

https://www.amazon.com/Evergreen-Scale-Models-Angle-080/dp/B0006O5G7W

Order just 1 package and you will have enough to re-do the needles of your gauges and all of your friends' GTV6s as well. Snip off most of the droopy, bent needle and glue a strip of this on the stub. It's a bit wider than the original gauge needles, but works well.
 

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You can also swipe needles out of a Milano gage cluster. Challenge there is to position the speedo needle on the shaft correctly. Since my GTV6 has a Dakota Digital translator box in it, all I needed to do was get close, then adjust the translator to set the proper speed indication - referencing GPS on the phone. The tach has a hard stop in the mechanism, so alignment there is easier. Plus GTV6 tachs are only "reasonable estimates" anyway. :)

Love a running, driving car - looks good too!
 

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Discussion Starter #659
The speedo looks like it has the dreaded needle curl. I thought it odd that the odometer works but not the speedometer.

The tach was swapped with one that had the needle fixed. I think it's an electrical issue as it is the only gauge that doesn't light up when the lights are turned on.

I've got to get some heat insulation on the tunnel. The IPhone crapped out from the heat. It was on the console. And, the emergency brake handle was also very hot. I wondered if I didn't get the exhaust leak free, but there is no combustion odor.




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https://www.amazon.com/Evergreen-Sca.../dp/B0006O5G7W

Order just 1 package and you will have enough to re-do the needles of your gauges and all of your friends' GTV6s as well. Snip off most of the droopy, bent needle and glue a strip of this on the stub. It's a bit wider than the original gauge needles, but works well.
I used that stuff on mine too and they look good but the instrument movement is sensitive to the weight of the needle and I now have some non-linearity. I had a choice between reading correctly at about 40 mph and under-reading at 80 or reading correctly at 80 and over reading at 40. I figured that for me at least the second option would be cheaper.
 
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