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If you get wear on the inside of the tread, you might need to change the toe in the positive direction just a tad more.
Or drive more aggressively! :)

Have enjoyed reading this saga horsewidower and pulling for you to get this fine machine performing like it should soon. Thanks for posting all the updates and photos.

Had to laugh about the no brake pads experience. I never drove like that, but accidentally had my daughter pump the brakes to "help" me bleed my BMW brakes with the caliper off...just about launched the piston out of the caliper.
 

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Discussion Starter #362
Or drive more aggressively! :)



Have enjoyed reading this saga horsewidower and pulling for you to get this fine machine performing like it should soon. Thanks for posting all the updates and photos.



Had to laugh about the no brake pads experience. I never drove like that, but accidentally had my daughter pump the brakes to "help" me bleed my BMW brakes with the caliper off...just about launched the piston out of the caliper.


I've been wrenching since I could hand my Dad a tool. Never did that before.

On reflection, I've decided that perhaps I'm a determined shade tree mechanic but perhaps not a competent one!

Ahhhh, introspection is such a curse. LOL



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Well that was a productive couple of hours.

I found an old post from Toonrboy that was quite helpful. It was the sequence to follow if you are pulling the torsion bars from the front. Worked like a charm.



Setup the parts receiving area.


On to the task





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Discussion Starter #364
I like to let the car hold the parts as long as I can. That way I don't have to try and figure out how to clamp them in a vice. Doesn't always work, but it did a great job for the ball joints.







I removed the two bolts holding the a-arm, interestingly there were two shims behind each pedestal. I'll have to measure everything to see how tall the stack is.

As usual, I thank my lucky stars that California seems to have rust free cars. A couple aggressive whacks with a BRM (big rubber mallet) separated the torsion bar. So here are the results.




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If you are thinking about installing a stiffer front bar, there can be a problem. The sway bar brackets are bolted to rather a flimsy sheet metal.
The twisting when slow driving over uneven pavement or driveways would tear the metal, requiring repairing and bracing.
It happened with my Sports Sedan with the Shankle suspension. At the same time, it happened with a friend's Coupe.
:)
 

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Discussion Starter #366
Most of what I am currently attempting is a refresh. I want to experience the car "as built" before contemplating any serious change.

But, thanks for the tip, I will keep that in mind.


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Andy at Performatek sells strengthening plates for the sway bar mounts, They have to be welded in.
 

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front end has 35 teeth, the rear 34 teeth. moving only 1 spline 1 end makes for a giant (can't remember exactly but, it is shocking - like 3") of ride height change. need to work both ends to get the ride heights you want. read the factory method. can count splines, move bar to get new marks both ends and get durn near exactly what you want, first time.
if you don't have manual. email me and i'll fwd the appropriate info.
 

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UPS alert says parts are being delivered today. Woohoo
 

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front end has 35 teeth, the rear 34 teeth. moving only 1 spline 1 end makes for a giant (can't remember exactly but, it is shocking - like 3") of ride height change. need to work both ends to get the ride heights you want. read the factory method. can count splines, move bar to get new marks both ends and get durn near exactly what you want, first time.
if you don't have manual. email me and i'll fwd the appropriate info.

When I lowered my GT last fall, I read up on all the different ways possible and ended up doing it Goos Van Pelt's way. here is the link to the youtube video. straight forward and I am happy I didn't have to hurt my brain cells counting splines.

 

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That only works if going back to the original ride height - or you have done a hundred of them and know how big a change unloaded gives how big a change when loaded.
 

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That's Wim on the movie worked at Goos van Pelt in the Netherlands
come there already 25 yrs, people with the heart in the right place


Greets Rob GTV6
 

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Discussion Starter #373
I'm still reading, searching and investigating this rebuild. Looks like the biggest PITA will be getting the swaybar (anti-roll) bar link off/on the bar.

I do destruction quite well, so getting it off will probably be a mix of flame, drill, cut and pull. What's the best method to get it back on? I've got a press, various vice, and several BFHs.
 

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pull link off, not quite as simple as sonds because there is not one square surface on the whole thing. is definitely a case for brute force and ignorance.
having said that - could go either of 2 ways... the links slips right off the plastic outer shell leaving intact bushing on bar end. OR will tear off leaving a bloody stump on the bar end.
either way, probably a good idea to replace the end link bushings anyway. will have to drive them off the bar end - but of course, there is no way to get anything behind the bolt tube.... will have to peel off rubber and cut the steel tube w either a dremel or hacksaw. w hacksaw will have to follow a gentle spiral cut. in any case, should not have to cut all the way down through the tube, a partial cut and the tension will (should) release enough for you to push off.

NOTE BENE - if going w new rubber bushings - FIRSTLY (before take anything apart) mark relationship between end link and sway bar so goes back on in a position close to what it was. if not lined up properly, will have to twist the end links (and the bushing rubber) to get the links to go onto the lower control arm mounts. eliminating this keeps internal shear to a minimum.
if going w poly end link bushings, not a concern, can rotate to position easily w no harm done.
 

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I followed Greg Gordon's method for adjusting the ride height, took a few attempts but was able to bring car down 3/4 or so. Looks nice and improves the handling a bit. With lower a arm off it might be easier. ( or not). As for the sway bar bushing they are a real pita. Get them out as barbancino says. I put polys back in, much easier to work with. Could never figure out how to press in stock Alfa's. Position is crucial with stock and make sure your orientation is correct. They are different angles and need to go back as they came out. Upper a arm bushing I used poly also, as I remember they have spacers that go on either side. Bolt that secures upper is sort of feel your way around. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #376



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Really enjoying this thread!

First round with transaxle front suspension for me was out of necessity, as my driver side torsion bar had failed. Rusty car, and nothing (least of all torsion bars) came out without a fight.

Refreshed my newer Milano's front suspension this winter and it was a great experience. Torsion bars cam out (toward front) with three blows of a 4lb sledge on a 3/4" brass drift (after marking, of course). Bushings pressed out nicely, ball joints came out with a few whacks to the retaining stud.

Looking at your suspension and the lack of rust, I imagine it's going to be a pretty satisfying job. Extra points if you spray the LCAs and UCAs with some black satin Krylon for cosmetic purposes.
 

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I ended up with VHT chassis and roll bar paint. I wanted satin, but the McParts store only had gloss. Not my first choice, but availability was a first concern.


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I ended up with VHT chassis and roll bar paint. I wanted satin, but the McParts store only had gloss. Not my first choice, but availability was a first concern.


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Should look great. You won't want to put your wheels back on...except to drive
 

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Should look great. You won't want to put your wheels back on...except to drive


Boy, isn't that the truth!

Given the expiration of the permits, my need for speed has abated. Back to steady, deliberate progress.


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