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Discussion Starter #201
She's humming now.

I tried to upload a video, no joy.

It needed more advance than spec...but worked fine once fiddled with.

No leaks, no smoke after burning off the rubber bands used to help with the assembly of the down pipes, fans came on properly. I'll go through the entire L-Jet tuning procedure, now that it is running.

Of course, we immediately tried to see if the transaxle would shift and the tires would spin. Not a success. The clutch is stuck engaged. Sooooo, time to hit the threads to find a potential solution short of tearing that apart.

The journey continues.
 

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I tried to upload a video, no joy.

It needed more advance than spec...but worked fine once fiddled with.

No leaks, no smoke after burning off the rubber bands used to help with the assembly of the down pipes, fans came on properly. I'll go through the entire L-Jet tuning procedure, now that it is running.

Of course, we immediately tried to see if the transaxle would shift and the tires would spin. Not a success. The clutch is stuck engaged. Sooooo, time to hit the threads to find a potential solution short of tearing that apart.

The journey continues.
First, make sure the clutch hydraulics are working and moving the clutch fork.

Before you tear anything apart, get the thing on the ground and purposely slip the clutch to see if it will break free---this is possible if the clutch disc is stuck to the flywheel due to rust. I used to have to street-park my BMW 2002tii, and this was always the case after a heavy rain (wouldn't be able to shift it into gear until I did this, no GTV6-style rubber boot to cover the open cavity for the clutch slave cylinder/fork).
 

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Discussion Starter #203
For my Lemons Rally GTV6, I installed a pre-filter between the fuel tank and pump, and cleaned rust particles out of it several times before the fuel ran clear, then replaced the in-tank screen (the rest of the fuel system had already been addressed).

Don't forget to send the cold start injector as well!
Absolutely on the filter, we picked one up and I need to install it. Bought a see through.

Great catch on the cold start. Hadn't even thought about that! I was going to send them 8 to 10 injectors in order to get a set of 6 that are closely matched.
 

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Absolutely on the filter, we picked one up and I need to install it. Bought a see through.
I destroyed several fuel pumps due to debris in the tank when I first got my GTV6. I still have an industrial strainer up stream of the pump that I installed to trap the garbage. I replaced the tank but I don't see a good reason to remove the strainer.
 

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I destroyed several fuel pumps due to debris in the tank when I first got my GTV6. I still have an industrial strainer up stream of the pump that I installed to trap the garbage. I replaced the tank but I don't see a good reason to remove the strainer.
I should have clarified; I waited to install a new strainer on mine until I had ensured that all of the large rust flakes had come out of the tank and got trapped in the pre-filter that I installed between the tank and pump. Once it ran clear, the new strainer was installed to replace the rusted-out original version.
 

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For troubleshooting I suggest that you plumb a pressure gauge into the line to the cold start injector. Harbor Freight sell a fuel pressure test kit for the price of a couple of beers.
 
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Discussion Starter #207
Fiddled a bit today. Primary chore was moving all the Alfas to a different location on the property, and property maintenance.

After spraying brake cleaner in the clutch housing bottom hole (which, after looking at a diagram, was probably a waste of cleaner) and using a stick to jam the clutch pedal to the floor overnight, and started the engine and tried to engage the gear. Still stuck. Bummer. I'll try the "start it in gear..." option next weekend.

Looks like 3 of the four calipers have sticking pistons. Only one that appears to work properly is the right rear. Or, maybe it's pistons are stuck and won't extend. LOL Anyhow, one more item to address.


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Discussion Starter #208
Just to reassure myself, I asked PMB for a quote to rebuild the rear calipers. Given that I have so many other things to address, I thought I might send out my extra set of calipers in order to save time. $325 for the pair is very reasonable. I need to check around town for a zinc yellow plater. I have many of the parts already, which vendor do you folks recommend for tall the seals, including the little ones for the adjusters?

On another note, what is the stock exterior treatment for the front Brembo caliper? Are they just raw aluminum?

Bob
 

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Stuck clutch

Of course, we immediately tried to see if the transaxle would shift and the tires would spin. Not a success. The clutch is stuck engaged. Sooooo, time to hit the threads to find a potential solution short of tearing that apart.

Here is how I've done it in the past.
Jack stands under the rear of the car so the wheels can spin, start the car in first gear so the wheels spin, put the clutch in and and stand on the brakes. The engine torque should break the clutch disc free.

I've used this method 2 or 3 times and it has always worked for me.
 

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Of course, we immediately tried to see if the transaxle would shift and the tires would spin. Not a success. The clutch is stuck engaged. Sooooo, time to hit the threads to find a potential solution short of tearing that apart.

Here is how I've done it in the past.
Jack stands under the rear of the car so the wheels can spin, start the car in first gear so the wheels spin, put the clutch in and and stand on the brakes. The engine torque should break the clutch disc free.

I've used this method 2 or 3 times and it has always worked for me.
This works usually. Another way is to start it in any gear (I use 4th) and let it run at say 2500 rpm for a while. Sometimes the engine vibrations alone will break it free.

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Discussion Starter #213
Great advice! I'll give it another go this weekend.


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Discussion Starter #214


A little penetrating oil, a bit of time, a little tappy tap tap, a bit of heat.

Repeat as necessary. Soon you have spare calipers and clutch to rebuild.

We have an excellent shop local, Capital Clutch and Brake, that I'll take the clutch to to get a quote to rebuild.


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Discussion Starter #215
"Say hello to my little friends..."




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This works usually. Another way is to start it in any gear (I use 4th) and let it run at say 2500 rpm for a while. Sometimes the engine vibrations alone will break it free.

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I've done this once or twice. I put the car up on 4 safe jackstands. Start the engine, put the gearbox in gear and rev the engine while braking with the clutch fully depressed at the same time ... something has to give, ie. the clutch.
Pete
 

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A little penetrating oil, a bit of time, a little tappy tap tap, a bit of heat.

Repeat as necessary. Soon you have spare calipers and clutch to rebuild.

We have an excellent shop local, Capital Clutch and Brake, that I'll take the clutch to to get a quote to rebuild.


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You going to rebuild that transaxle as well?

Mapp gas is effective for stuck fasteners. Love it.

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Discussion Starter #218
I'll get a price to rebuild.

I just noticed that it's setup for isostatic, and my car is not. I wonder how hard it will be to adapt.

Three of the bolts were already rounded out, which explains their roughed up appearance. I'll have to modify my vice grip to be able to grab the head of the bolts, or perhaps cut them off.


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I'll get a price to rebuild.

I just noticed that it's setup for isostatic, and my car is not. I wonder how hard it will be to adapt.

Three of the bolts were already rounded out, which explains their roughed up appearance. I'll have to modify my vice grip to be able to grab the head of the bolts, or perhaps cut them off.


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The isostatic to early shift is easy, you just change the selector shaft. The speedometer sender and type will be different but it can be modified to work.



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Discussion Starter #220
Woohoo!!

Clutch is uncoupled! I'll throw a seat in it this afternoon and take for a trip around the barn.

Thanks for all the hints and tips.


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