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My 1984 alpha spider does not fire at all, it was fine I took it for a long run then parked it. It has been very wet here and foggy. Ive had a mouse problem. I pulled the fuel pump in the tank and bench tested it . It was bad so I replaced it. I tried a new coil no help. I have 12 volts to each side of coil. Ive been going thru and cleaning all grounds. I wonder if my ecu has been shorted and burnt out.Does any one test them?
 

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Hello & welcome.

I'm not aware of anyone that tests our ECU's. The ECU is generally considered a rather sturdy unit (but they are getting up in age...). Even the shop manual never described a way to test the ECU. They basically had you test that all the inputs were getting sent to the ECU and if no faults were found there the next step is 'replace ECU'.

Click on the link in my signature for a page of DIY info about L-jetronic Spider Diagnosis (you may need to click the down arrow to see the full signature). L-jet is a system - all the bits have to work right for it to work at all.
 

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I agree w/ghnl - the Jetronic unit is very non susceptible to electronic badness. It's really just a 'state'machine ( no cpu or other active devices ). It's just a bunch of resistors, coils, capacitors, transistors. ( still don't weld near the plugged in housing ) but you could . But don't. I'm just sayin' it's a pretty tough little box.
However if your car is a salvage from sunken lakes in Florida, that could be bad for it. But like ghnl intimates, looking somewhere else first, would be better spent time in his [ and my opine]. Especially as it was running just before parking it.
Follow his link, Luke, it it will lead you to . . . !! and please ground your light saber before poking around in that area, despite what I said earlier.

Sheesh.
 

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Rule out spark right off the hop. If you have a spare spark plug, use that, plug it into any disconnected lead, make sure the outside is touching the engine where you can see it, crank the engine.
 

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you have power to both sides of coil, that's a good start.

now check the main lead is firmly plugged in at the distributor and coil ends.
if you have a spare spark lead with a sparkplug on the end, stick this into the coil, ground the plug on the head and crank.......does it spark?


coil wiring:
green/black on positive side
everything else on negative side

Rectangle Font Parallel Number Paper product
 

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1984 Spider Veloce
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When you say "doesn't fire at all," do you mean you get nothing when turning the key, or it turns over but doesn't start? If it turns over, but doesn't start, you may want to bench test the drive (fuel pump) relay.
 

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When you say "doesn't fire at all," do you mean you get nothing when turning the key, or it turns over but doesn't start? If it turns over, but doesn't start, you may want to bench test the drive (fuel pump) relay.
Bench testing can be tricky on a relay of this type. If you pull it and jump across the contacts and it starts, then you know where your problem is located.
NOID lights on the injectors would be a next step.
 

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1984 Spider Veloce
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Bench testing can be tricky on a relay of this type. If you pull it and jump across the contacts and it starts, then you know where your problem is located.
NOID lights on the injectors would be a next step.
Bench test as has been discussed on other posts: power (12v) terminals 15 and 50, ground 31 - get click, then test for continuity across 30 and 87. You're right though, jumping 30 & 87 would tell you the same thing if it starts.
 

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Aubrey, where are you located?

I helped a buddy resurrect an '86 Spider last summer. Our no-spark and ignition problem was due to BOTH flywheel position sensors being bad. Not sure how that could happen, but never underestimate the stupidity of a previous owner. ghnl's L-jetronic troubleshooting guide is good.
 

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OP
really, I think we need a little more information than 1 post every 10 months.

we're pretty good, but not clairvoyants 😆
I think i used to date Clair! :LOL:
 
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