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Discussion Starter #1
Im working on a spider for a friend and car runs on starting fluid but will not start otherwise. I have done the following:
checked fuses under dash and by computer. Good
battery voltage during cranking is 11.2
checked reset on firewall in both positions.
checked the door at the air intake
fuel pump doesnt seem to be running.
gas is new
car ran when stored for the winter now will not start.
 

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fuel pump doesnt seem to be running...
That's a pretty big clue! During cranking the fuel pumps should get battery voltage via a start signal from the ignition switch. Once it starts the fuel pumps are powered on by the drive relay. The drive relay knows the engine is running based on a tachymetric signal it gets from the coil.

If the pumps are not running at all then investigate if the electrical connections are OK. Try 'hot wiring' wiring them to see if they can run.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i just did and the pump didnt come on i followed the pink/white (hot) wire all the way to under the dash and it seems to goto the fuse panel so then i started checking fuses again and it seems half of the fuse panel has no power even when cranking and further more the owner had told me he accidentally crossed pos and neg on the battery when putting the charger on will this have an impact on anything?
 

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...it seems half of the fuse panel has no power even when cranking...
The entire fuse panel should have power with the ignition switch 'on' (except maybe the headlight fuses). You should ask BB member Papajam for a copy of his wire diagrams for your model Alfa. Send him a private message including your email address and he'll reply with some color coded diagrams that will make chasing Alfa electrons much easier. Meanwhile, check the back of the fuse box for loose connectors. The fuse box can be un-hooked, lowered and turned around for a good look at the backside.

and further more the owner had told me he accidentally crossed pos and neg on the battery...
It has been reported that doing that could, maybe ruin the computer(s). Since you said it'll start on starting fluid it seems likely the ignition computer must be OK. I wouldn't condemn the FI computer until you figure out the other issues (like why the fuel pumps ain't pumping fuel). I think it is likely the computers are OK as long as no one tried to start the car with the charger hooked up backwards.

BTW, when you tried starting with starter fluid did you first re-install all the intake air ducts & vacuum hoses? L-jet does not tolerate 'false air' such as would be found trying to run the engine with an air duct or vacuum hose disconnected.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
when i used starting fluid i pulled the air intake tube off by the air flow sensor. Shouldnt the main pump run with power directly to it? I also thought a relay was bad but they are all clicking and have power out when key on. This car doesnt have the altitude sensor either.
 

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I believe the '82's didn't come with the altitude compensation device. Unless you are at high altitudes you won't need it.

The fuel pumps should run if 12V is applied directly (remove the two wires from the main pump and run long jumper wires from the battery). (The pump terminal with the black wire is ground.) You can eliminate the inertia shut off device by removing the two wires attached to it and connecting them together. They are known to fail - even if you push the reset button it might not restore electrical contact. The later cars did not come with the inertia shut off device. It was decided that the drive relay was enough - it will remove power to the fuel pumps in the engine stalls. For that reason, even if the car will run with the pumps hot wired you should figure out the problem and fix. It could be dangerous to drive it with the drive relay's control bypassed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i did run power to the pump and it still was unresponsive should i try a new pump even though i dont have power to the pump withe the key on.

Also i am new to BB so how do i send a message directly to Papajam?
 

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i did run power to the pump and it still was unresponsive should i try a new pump even though i dont have power to the pump withe the key on.
Normally the pumps do not get power unless 1) the ignition switch is in the 'start' position or B) the engine is running.

Attach a 12V test light to the wires that go to the fuel pump (disconnect them from the fuel pump) and see if the light works (i.e. 12V present) when the key is turned to 'start'. If not there is an electrical fault. Did you figure out why the fuse box circuits that should be powered on with the key in the 'on' position don't have power?

Also i am new to BB so how do i send a message directly to Papajam?
Click on his username and select 'send Private Message'. Scroll down to the 'electrical' section of the BB and you'll find lots of posts with his name.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ok ill try that and no no power yet im going to look at it on monday

Thank You for your help
 

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One other thought. You say you checked the fuses & they 'looked good'. However when they get old the bullet fuses in our cars can look OK yet still somehow fail to actually pass electrons. I suggest simply replacing all of them every few years & cleaning the fuse box contacts, too. Considering those fuses could be 20-30 years old it is cheap preventative maintenance to just replace them. Don't forget to replace the inline fuse for the fuel pumps, too. It is located next to the FI computer. 8 amp is the right rating there. The fuse box takes a few 16 amp fuses & the rest are 8 amps. I found some at Auto Zone.
 
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