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Discussion Starter #1
This doesn’t look like the pictures I’ve seen if the relays for this. I’m only getting 7 volts to the pumps
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First 1) replace the in-line fuse holder with a blade type fuse holder. That fuse holder & the bullet fuse inside are known to be problematic. At the least, clean the contacts & put in a new fuse - I prefer the ones with a brass strip. The aluminum strip fuses can look OK but fail to allow electrons to flow. Next B) clean and secure the connections at the fuel pump. Including the ground connection. As I recall (but not always reliable...) the connections at the main pump are slightly different sizes but be sure not to mix them up.
 

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it is not the fuse that is the trouble, more that style of 'bullet' fuse holder....look inside for any signs of melting....there also seems to be some electrical tape on the fuse holder's blue wires....check what's going on under there.

Basically that whole area looks a bit of a mess, full of dirt, dust, sand (whatever)....that undershelf area on mine is spotless.... invest in a can of contact spray and an old toothbrush and unclip every connector back there and clean every contact.
I'd do the ecu plug too (undo the battery negative before doing anything!)

Relays look correct....you still have the big (expensive) bosch there, which is good if it's working.
 

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...there also seems to be some electrical tape on the fuse holder's blue wires....check what's going on under there.
I suspect the fuse holder has already been replaced - by another generic in-line fuse holder. Perhaps one intended for a glass tube fuse?

I think the original type fuse holder is shown here:
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What are the wire colors attached to it?

I am going to send you copies of Papajam's (Jim Neil's) color coded wire diagrams for your Spider. It will make chasing Alfa electrons much easier. Check your 'Conversations' (click on the mini-avatar in the upper right corner of the page).
 

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I use the glass "torpedo" fuses. same as the one you pictured but glass, not plastic and brass.
 

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Any improvement after cleaning the relays etc?

here is a post with some tests to check fuel relay and voltage at relay....might be of use
you could also bypass the big fuel relay by jumping pin 30 & 87....this should make the pumps run if the wiring/fuse etc is all good
Testing fuel pump relay
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I started cleaning, bought a new fuse holder but haven't been able to get back to it. Hopefully tonight. I'll post more soon! ( I hope)
 

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Oh and your 82 probably has that safety inertia switch under the hood, passenger side bulkhead.....a sort of grey cylinder thing. They cause trouble.
Many just bypass them.
Good luck!
 

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Started to clean and noticed this one isn’t plugged into anything
I know an option on some of these cars was a heated rear window, and according to the wiring diagram it is a black and white wire, which looks like the color pattern in your photo. And he wire's location under the parcel shelf makes sense. What I don't know is if this option was available for the 1982 Veloce model. I thought it was only a Quad option, but I may be wrong.
 

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that lonesome red connector (2 pin) is very likely the altitude compensation 'jumper' (when you live and drive above 4000 ft. you'd jumper the plug).
...are the wires going to it blue/whites and a blue/black??

If, on the other hand, that were a 3 pin plug, it would plug into an altitude compensation device, as arrowed in Eric's photo in post #6 above
.....the alt.comp.dev was fitted about 84 on.

here is another '82 with same red connector joined to nothing:
82 rear deck.jpg

(hard top heated window and light connection would be behind side carpet flap, driver's side....if fitted)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Oh and your 82 probably has that safety inertia switch under the hood, passenger side bulkhead.....a sort of grey cylinder thing. They cause trouble.
Many just bypass them.
Good luck!
Any pictures of the safety inertia switch?


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Discussion Starter #18
Changed the fuse holder out. The wires were twisted and taped.




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Any pictures of the safety inertia switch?
There are two versions. One is a gray cylinder about 1.5" dia X 3" long. It has a reset button on top and two wires connected to the bottom. The other style is a black plastic box about the size of a pack of cigarettes. Button on top is under a rubber boot, two wires on the bottom. It will be located on the firewall between the hood latch & windshield washer reservoir.

They proved problematic and were eliminated in later cars (after about 1985ish?). Just connect the two wires together. This is exactly what Alfa did when they eliminated it - they did not change the wire harness but just buried that connection inside the outer wrapping. IIRC (I often don't...) it is a red/white wire & a pink wire.

The reason Alfa could safely eliminate the inertia switch is because it was decided the drive relay would act as the safety device. If the drive is operating properly it will cut power to the fuel pump in an accident when the engine stalls. Note there is a replacement relay that fits physically but it has been reported that it does not shut off the fuel pumps when the engine stalls. That incorrect relay is a KAE brand.
 
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