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1982 Spider Veloce
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Have a 1982 Spider Veloce with no headlights or turn signals. Do I need to replace the combination switch or can the existing one be repaired?
 

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Have you checked the fuses? I'd suggest replacing them if they are of unknown vintage. The bullet type fuses used in our cars are known to look OK but somehow not allow electrons to pass. I prefer the fuses with brass strips over aluminum strips.

If you want to get inside the combination switch look at this thread: Combination Switch clean/lube I didn't go into the headlight section but as I recall it is riveted together. So you could open it up by drilling out the rivets and perhaps replacing them with screws.
 

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Do I need to replace the combination switch or can the existing one be repaired?
I certainly can't answer the "repair vs. replace" question, without knowing more. I probably can't answer it with any accuracy without laying my hands - and my voltage tester - on your car. But here's what I can tell you:

- These switches can be disassembled and worked on. The thread ghnl refers to in post #2 discusses this. But whether your switch is: a) the problem and b) can be repaired, are unknowns, at least at this point.

- The combination switch is really two switches (headlight and turn signal) on one housing. It would be odd for both sides to fail at the same time. Can you get any flicker from the bulbs by wiggling the stalks? If "yes", that is a sign that the switch is the issue.

- Go ahead and check the fuses as ghnl advises. But honestly, if the turn signals, high beams and low beams are ALL non-functional, it probably isn't solely due to the fuses. It would take a lot of fuses failing at once to cause all the lights to go out.

- While you're checking fuses, check the bulbs. Again, it would be quite a coincidence if all the bulbs died at once, but .....

Additional data you might provide:

- You mentioned your headlights and turn signals not working. How about the tail lights, front parking lights or emergency flashers; do any of those work? Does the car run?

- Did these lights work at one time and then suddenly went kaput? Or is this car new to you?
 

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1982 Spider Veloce
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Discussion Starter #4
Car is new to me but I know the cars provenance. All were functioning when it was garaged for 6 years without being touched. Brake lights and rear running lights work. No turn signals front or back and the hazard lights not working. A well meaning mechanic wired a switch around the column switch to get me headlights. I have not done a close inspection of the fuses. Yes the car does run great.
 

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All were functioning when it was garaged for 6 years without being touched. A well meaning mechanic wired a switch around the column switch to get me headlights.
Hmm, you live in Missouri and the car has been off the road for 6 years. Might some of the fuses and light sockets have become corroded during that time? Try removing the non-working bulbs and see how the bulbs and sockets look.

So the headlights do light up with the switch the mechanic added. I assume that just gets you low beams but not highs.
 

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1982 Spider Veloce
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Discussion Starter #6
Very humid in Missouri so corrosion is likely. Yes, low beams only. I have not removed any bulbs or fuses. That seems to be the direction to go first.
 

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Mine sat for 20 years before I got it and had lots of lighting issues. Going through and cleaning all the grounds and sockets cured the problems.
 

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1982 Spider Veloce
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Discussion Starter #8
Got a little work in front of me. All new fuses with the brass strips on the way. Will start checking for corroded connections and bad bulbs. All good advice. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I now have a new combination switch to install. I pulled the center cap off the steering wheel expecting to find a splined rod. I found a threaded rod with a Jesus nut. It also some sort of lock on the nut. Do I bend it up out
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of the way?
 

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You'll need to bend the tabs flat so you can get a socket on the nut, you'll probably need a puller to get the wheel off, one with two threaded bolts (M6) - you might be lucky and get it off by pushing the wheel from behind with you knees, but keep the nut on a few threads otherwise you might lose a few teeth! - There are threads on here about the type of puller you need, i made mine up from a spring compressor, a steel bar and two M6 bolts, don't lose the woodruff key
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks. Got the steering wheel off without a problem. Left the nut on like you suggested. Used a puller that looks like a Mercedes emblem, wheel came off smoothly. Replacing the turn signal and headlight assembly. Have a new one. An item came in the same box. A steel tube that resembles a wrench socket. Would you know what that is?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Removed the existing turn signal assembly. When installing the new one found that one side had a mated to an existing harness the other side does not. Did I purchase the wrong assembly or is there an update that needs to be done?
 
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