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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello everyone. My grandma has a 1979 Sprint Veloce that has been sitting in her driveway for well over 10 years. The car used to be my grandpa's, but he has since passed on. Me and my friend are thinking about doing a partial restoration on the car as a tribute to my grandfather. It most likely has the 2,000cc in it since it's a USA car, and has the 5 speed manual. And just a few weeks ago we put a battery in it to see if the engine was still free and she fired up almost right away! The car didn't stay running as it probably needs a bit of work to stay running. But what I am here to ask is that if the car is worth fixing, and how much would it cost to at least get it driving? I know that it will need a full fluid change, drain the gas tank, full rebuild on the entire brake system, pack cv joints, and get new tires. We can do all of the work, but what I need to know is an approximate cost to at least get it driving. And somewhat safely. Here are some pictures to get an idea of the current condition the car is in.









Transaxle rear shot.


Rear brake rotor. Pretty worn down!


Lip of the deck lid is pretty rusted out at two of the mounting points of the spoiler.



Clean carpet in the back. Fuel filler neck is all dry rotted too.


Matching spare.


Anybody know if this is the 2,000cc by the looks of it? I can get more pictures if needed.

And it is a twin cam.


Translation?


Can anybody tell anything from this?

And this?



One more engine bay shot.


The interior is alright. Mostly everything is there, but a lot of the plastic has been eaten away by the sun.

Such as the horn buttons


Door panel is a bit warped at the lower left.


Headliner is still perfect!


Front and back seats are still good, but the fabric has been in the sun for so long, parts of it are turning into really fine dust. If you know what I mean.


I'm guessing 169k


Some things have fallen apart, but they're minor fixes.


And it will definitely need a new paint job, but that's not number one on the list!


Front end. Was the splitter a factory option?


Rear end.


One more shot of the underneath. You can see it's been sitting a long time!



And that's all I have for now! Any help and additional information on the car is greatly appreciated!
 

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Safe to assume it's a two litre. All four cylinder Alfas have been twin cam since, forever(?)

SPICA is the name of the (Alfa Romeo) company that supplied fuel injection systems used for 4cyl cars destined to the US to achieve emissions regulations, instead of carbs as per the rest of the world. Out of interest, where'd you pour the fuel to start it?

The labels you pictured simply document service instructions.

The biggest impediment to getting it running will be rust and the SPICA system. Everything else is pretty much the same from any car of the period.

Inspect the car with your eyes wide open for all the rust.

Personally I know nothing about the SPICA system as apart from the Alfa Montreal it's very US specific. I read that it's great when it works and a $pecialist job when it doesn't. Plenty of threads in here discussing how to diagnose and maintain it. I suggest you try and get it running first, then check completely for terminal rust before proceeding to spend any real money on it.

Was this model called a Sprint just for the US - I've never seen it called that anywhere else?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Was this model called a Sprint just for the US - I've never seen it called that anywhere else?
I'm not so sure. Still pretty new to the Alfa game as this is the first one ill be working on. and i meant i took the plugs out and put a bit of gas in. Don't know why I said carb haha. I must be tired.
 

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Welcome to the forum! I think your grandfather would be proud if you got it back on the road. Yes it's a 2 liter. The Alfetta GT/GTV was rebadged as a "Sprint Veloce" for the US market. My car was already converted to dual Weber carbs when I bought it, so I have no SPICA experience. Plenty of good information on this forum regarding the SPICA (pronounced SPEE-Ka) mechanical fuel injection system, and Wes Ingram is the SME http://www.wesingram.com/SPICA_Fuel_Supply_Diagnostic_Guide_Nov_2004.pdf but I did get mine back up and running after it had sat for years so I am happy to help you with what I can.
You can browse the Centerline or International Auto Parts websites to get an idea of what it will cost to get it back on the road. The splitter (if you mean the front spoiler) was standard, at least on US cars. If you do this and repaint the car, remove all the glass and stainless trim, there will be rust at each lower corner of the rear hatch glass and under the trim strips that run the length of the side glass.
Also consider this: these cars, as wonderful as they look and sound and handle, are not worth a lot on the market right now. Their prices have been climbing lately, but if you do a even a moderate restoration that includes a full paint job you will likely be upside down on your cost vs. the value of the car, so if you do it, make it a labor of love and not a business decision.
 

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If you don't do a bit of body work, and just fix the brakes, put new guibos in, and get her tuned up with new plugs and a tank of gas, and a few hours at an Alfa mechanics garage , you are at about 2000$ max.

If you want to do a 'nice' not 'great' body restore and interior repair, budget 3-5g's just for paint and 5000-6000$ interior and paint, unless you can do paint and body yourself...in which case it's just materials and time..

Looks like you have a pretty good base to start with, so that is a huge step in the right direction.

So how much can you spend on this tribute? How much do you want to spend?
 

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I see red Koni shocks, Cibie headlights, Stebro exhaust, Ronal A1 wheels, Vitaloni sport mirrors, etc. Looks like it was a well-cared for car! The paint is probably original based on that pinstripe, which is good - you'll be able to see the areas that need work more easily than a shoddy repaint which can hide a lot. Underbody looks great, and front end looks like it's never been mucked with or hit. Too bad that spoiler caused that hatch rust.

That would be a very sweet car with little work. That headliner looks mint, hard to find one like that. And - I love that color. Very cool.
 

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Another thing - it looks like the coolant is a nice clean green color. A good sign. Check the oil cap for major mayo/peanut butter appearing deposits or clear evidence of real rust.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So how much can you spend on this tribute? How much do you want to spend?
My guess is we'll spend maybe around $5k on the car on the major components such as drivetrain and interior. I jacked up the car after I took pictures of it and there is no rust at all underneath it! :clap: Woohoo! So I know it will be a solid platform.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Another thing - it looks like the coolant is a nice clean green color. A good sign. Check the oil cap for major mayo/peanut butter appearing deposits or clear evidence of real rust.
That is one of the first things I checked under the hood. Zero rust in the radiator and a clean as can be oil cap. I also checked the oil level and it could use a bit. How much oil does this engine take?
 

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It's definitely worth restoring. I think your primary issue is going to be the fuel system and what damage 10 years of sitting idle may have done to it, specifically the injection pump. Take a sample out of the lines that connect to the SPICA and examine it for condition. Automotive fuel varies widely in quality so if was good gas to begin with or if your Grandpa knew it was going to be parked and maybe added some stabilant it might not be so bad.

For safety's sake you should replace all of the rubber fuel lines, three at the rear and four up front in the engine compartment as well as the two filters while you're at it.

Good luck, it's a fun car.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It's definitely worth restoring. I think your primary issue is going to be the fuel system and what damage 10 years of sitting idle may have done to it, specifically the injection pump...

For safety's sake you should replace all of the rubber fuel lines, three at the rear and four up front in the engine compartment as well as the two filters while you're at it.

Good luck, it's a fun car.
Where can i get a new pump? I bet the one in it is shot. And do you by any chance know what size fuel line it will take? 1/4"? Thanks for the info!
 

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If you mean the injection pump you can't get a new one but you can get a rebuilt one from Wes Ingram (see link in earlier post above) It won't be cheap but it's something you'll most likely never have any issues with afterwards as they are generally very reliable. Fuel hose I believe 3/8ths and 1/2 for main tank feed section will work. Just take the old stuff to any auto parts and match it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
If you mean the injection pump you can't get a new one but you can get a rebuilt one from Wes Ingram (see link in earlier post above) It won't be cheap but it's something you'll most likely never have any issues with afterwards as they are generally very reliable. Fuel hose I believe 3/8ths and 1/2 for main tank feed section will work. Just take the old stuff to any auto parts and match it.
Awesome, thank you so much! And as long as the car will run and drive well, I'm happy!
 

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Where can i get a new pump? I bet the one in it is shot. And do you by any chance know what size fuel line it will take? 1/4"? Thanks for the info!
Don't decide anything is shot until you know it's shot. SPICA's a fabulous piece of engineering which you shouldn't mess with until you've schooled yourself. First replace the oil and drain the old gas and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Don't decide anything is shot until you know it's shot. SPICA's a fabulous piece of engineering which you shouldn't mess with until you've schooled yourself. First replace the oil and drain the old gas and go from there.
Okay Thanks Bill! Other than the pump, filters, tank, and fuel lines, what else should I check on or replace in the fuel system?
 

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Replace everything in the rear hatch area that connects to the fuel tank. That old fuel filler hose will stench the car with fumes so badly your eyes will water even with the windows down. Also, perched atop the fuel tank under the plastic trim piece are vent lines and a plastic one way vent check valve. Replace all the rubber lines and ensure the valve works as designed.
 

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It's very likely that the cog belt for the SPICA injection pump is about to fall apart. It is not entirely easy to change. Luckily, they are cheap, and you can do the alternator belt at same time.

As for the rear hatch, you can get another from Larry at APE , as well as many other bits if needed. You should replace the soft fuel lines, fuel filter, and change the gas in the tank. Most likely, the SPICA pump is fine. It has a tiny internal filter that sometimes needs changing. Rear fuel pump may still be good., you will have to check it. Gas goo will probably need flushing from fuel system.

If you have never worked on a car /engine before, just remember, this is not a one afternoon job. You need a good set of metric tools. Anything you break is not so easy to replace. It will be many little jobs until you can really have a good time in her. A high maintenance girlfriend directly from Italy... do a good quality job and in the end, well worth it.

And if the first thing you put into the car is a 1000$ head unit and big subs/amps in the trunk, this car is not for you....

get yourself the Haynes manual...used on ebay or amazon
 

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FWIW in the mid 90's I bought a '79 Alfetta SV from a guy for $400. It had been sitting in his driveway for at least 4 or 5 years and all I did was put a new battery in it and drove it home. I used that car as a daily driver for over seven years and put close to 100,000 miles on it.
 
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