[Dukes426]

Hi all,
I am in the final stages of getting my 1977 Alfetta GTV (in Australia) back on the road after nearly 15 years of sitting idle.
I tested the headlights and indicators a few months back before the car went to a mechanic to get some other work done and now my indicators and headlights don’t work.
I have looked at the fuses and number 11 and 12 (low beam headlights) seem to be blown. My plan is to replace all of the fuses but I am not sure what amps they should be - does anybody have some sort of chart that shows what the correct amps should be for each fuse?
My plan is to replace them all and then clean and apply dielectric grease to the grounds. Can somebody also please tell me where the ground/s would be for the indicators and headlights?
Any other tips for solving this issue?
This is the last step before the car can be registered so am very keen to find and fix the issue (or issues)!
Sorry for the newby questions and I greatly appreciate any advice!
Best regards
Dave

 

[sportiva]

fuses 1-3 are16 amp fuses 4-14 should be 8 amp

 

[Dukes426]

Perfect! Thanks very much!!

 

[alfaloco]

Perfect! Thanks very much!!

Perfect! Thanks very much!!

The first thing I suggest after cleaning the fuse retainer tabs with a pencil eraser, is to pitch all the aluminum clad fuses in the trash. You want all brass or copper fuses, like fuse 4 in your photo. Gently squeeze the retainer tabs together so they grip the fuse securely.
The aluminum fuses are a waste of money and time, and only cause problems with continuity and corrosion.
As to the grounds location, it may be different for the Alfetta but on our GTV 6, there are grouped grounds at the very front of each fender, secured by a 10mm bolt. Under the air filter housing on the right side, and next to the electrical junction block on the left side.

 

[italcarnut]

Always use the copper fuses, not aluminum ones like Alfaloco said. Vintage VW cars used these. Easily obtainable.

 

[lewong]

Years ago, I was able to find these Bussman glass torpedo fuses, that seem to have a little more physical integrity than the ones that are generally available. Maybe search for Automotive "Glass" "Torpedo" Fuse

Leslie Wong
San Francisco, CA
1979 Alfetta Sprint Veloce

 

[alfaloco]

Years ago, I was able to find these Bussman glass torpedo fuses, that seem to have a little more physical integrity than the ones that are generally available. Maybe search for Automotive "Glass" "Torpedo" Fuse View attachment 1740676
Leslie Wong
San Francisco, CA
1979 Alfetta Sprint Veloce

I have these in my son's gtv6. I put a red paint dot on all the 16 amp fuses, since you have to look closely at them to determine the amp rating.
And I agree they are superior fuses. Bussman GBC type.

 

[alfaloco]

Always use the copper fuses, not aluminum ones like Alfaloco said. Vintage VW cars used these. Easily obtainable.

Centerline sells them.

 

[Dukes426]

Thanks all for your excellent advice.
I will replace all the fuses and clean and gently squeeze the little tabs. So just to confirm, the glass torpedo fuses can be used in place of the style I currently have? Are the glass ones better than the brass/copper variety (like fuse 4 in my image)?
Should I apply dielectric grease to the ends of each of the new fuses after the tabs have been cleaned?
Probably a stupid question, but do I need to disconnect the battery to replace the fuses or clean the grounds?
And when I clean the grounds, I was just going to use a little piece of sand paper to clean them, apply a little dielectric grease and then screw them back down again. Is that ok?
Sorry again for all the amateur questions but am keen to learn things myself rather than paying through the nose to have a so called expert screw things up.
Thank you again everyone - really appreciate the help!

 

[sportiva]

If want to use glass fuses nearly all of them have flat caps and don't fit as well as they should. What I do is solder a dollop of silver solder on to each end cap, this forms a dome that fits nicely into the concave tabs.
Cheers

 

[alfaloco]

Don't worry about asking stupid questions, you have not asked one yet, and that's how we learn!
The brass or copper fuses we are talking about are just fine, as long as the connections are clean and they snap securely into the retainers.

You do not need to disconnect the battery to do any of this kind of work. When you clean the ground points you also need to clean off the small bolt and washers, and the ring connectors on the wires so that everything makes metal to metal clean contact when you bolt it back down. Yes I use dielectric grease on grounds when I clean them, also. I like to use a small wire brush to clean ground points myself, it's usually quicker and easier than sandpaper. But sandpaper would do a good job on the ring connectors if they're corroded.
Of course, your most important ground point will be the negative cable off your battery post where it attaches to the body structure. That should be squeaky clean, including the bolt and washer and bare metal surface where the lug makes contact.

 

[Dukes426]

Thanks very much for the excellent tips and advice. I have ordered the new fuses and dielectric grease which should hopefully be here tonight or tomorrow and will report back on how it goes. Fingers crossed and thanks again!

 

[slowcreek]

Great advice ^^ .
The ground connections are where alfaloco pointed out.

 

[Dukes426]

Hi all. Thanks for all the great advice. I managed to get all lights working except for my indicators/hazards. The hazard light switch is stuck on so I’m trying to squeeze my arm round the back of the dash to unscrew the little collar but the clip for the fuse box is digging a nice hole in my arm and I can’t quite get my thumb and index finger around the collar to unscrew it. Grrrr.
Any other tips for removing the hazard switch on a 77 GTV?

 

[slowcreek]

I know what I would do first.

Spray the switch from the front with De-Ox-It.

 

[Dukes426]

I actually just finished the job.
my arm was too fat to fit around under the dash but luckily wifey has long skinny arms so she managed to reach back there and undo the switch for me. I got the switch out and opened it up.
The issue was that it needed a little shim inserted behind this little lever. I tried depressing the button once the shim was in and it seemed to hold so I put it back in the car, connected everything and I am proud to say that I finally fixed all the little gremlins!! All my lights work and will be heading out first thing in the morning to get it registered!

Thank you again to this great community for all your help - couldn’t have done it without you!!
Have a great weekend all!

 

[alfaloco]

Hats off to your wife! Nothing succeeds like success.