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I am considering the purchase of a 1976 Alfetta GT. The car is a completely stock survivor with the original paint and very little rust. The car looks nice and runs well with the only real flaw being torn front seats. The Spica pump was rebuilt by Wes Ingram and works fine. For a driver, the car needs nothing.

Can anyone give me an idea of a fair price for this car, or a range of prices? Thank you!

Steve
 

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Well, right now I’d say all old Alfas are worth poop, including previously upper-tier cars.

A few months ago I bought a 78 GT. No rust, or so well hidden I can’t find it. Engine runs great. Very nice interior that looks nearly new.

I paid $6k, which included delivery from Seattle to northern NV. Fine for a daily driver, but I’m not interested in much restoration work.

If my car were put on the market right now, I doubt I could find a buyer if I offered it for free.
 

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Be careful. I owned a 1976 (or 78, now confused as to the exact year) Sud and even though I sold this car almost 30 years ago, I still wake in a cold sweat from a rust nightmare. Otherwise was a great little car, especially before I asked the engine to produce too much power.

This period of Alfa Romeo, or maybe it was just the Suds, was all about Russian steel, strikes and sabotage (apparently in regards to the Sud?). The rust was black and unlike anything I had ever seen or seen since. My 1971 1750 GTV occasionally gets me down regarding 'am I ever going to get to the end of removing rust', then I remember the Sud and it is nothing in comparison :)
Pete
 

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Here's Hagerty's ratings, other than that I'm not of much help, I bought mine as a project that's been sitting for 40 years (not running yet) for $500, I've since got it running just fine. Body's next.

Concours- $27,200
Excellent- $15,500
Good- $7,900
Fair- $4,500

If you want more, meaning their definitions and descriptions of these conditions, here's the link


Hope this helps.
 

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Is the paint faded or is it in good condition? Make sure you check the front shock towers inside the engine compartment along with the trim around the windshield and rear window for rust. These have been all over the board in the last year or so, $3500-$8K, but as Don pointed out the market is soft right now with the virus. Make sure the Guibo's are good as they changed in 76 and the correct ones can be a real bear to find.
 

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Make sure the Guibo's are good as they changed in 76 and the correct ones can be a real bear to find.
What would be considered good? Mine have 38k miles on them, but are a little cracked. The prop shaft still spins everything just fine (while the car idles and is on jack stands), and I haven't had any issues thus far. I was unaware of the changing in '76 though, should this be something I should look into with mine?
 

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If they show cracks I would definitely replace them. Mileage is less important than age. There were something like three different part numbers for the 76's as it was some kind of transition year. You have to go by the month of manufacture to make sure you get the right ones.
 

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If they show cracks I would definitely replace them. Mileage is less important than age. There were something like three different part numbers for the 76's as it was some kind of transition year. You have to go by the month of manufacture to make sure you get the right ones.
It was made in '75, about halfway through the year.
 

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Thought someone was complaining about how they couldn't give their car away... Wrong chat I guess... For the flex disks I go on EBay... Jumbo Sale has all kinds o stuff but you have to type out year ,model and engine size....
 

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I sold my '78 GT for $5000 to someone I knew.
It was a California car with very little rust and I put a TwinSpark in it.
Yes, you'll need to visually inspect the flex disks in your car.
Early ones had cast aluminum sections and later ones had stamped steel fused to the rubber.
I had a '76 at one point and I put a later style driveshaft and transaxle from a parts car in it.
I drove that car for quite a few years without any problems, after that.

My opinion: Hagerty's numbers are inflated.
If you look at what has sold for what price, compared with Hagerty's numbers,
you'll see that cars are getting a little over half of those listed prices, particularly now.
A buyer's market now.
 

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My opinion: Hagerty's numbers are inflated.
If you look at what has sold for what price, compared with Hagerty's numbers,
you'll see that cars are getting a little over half of those listed prices, particularly now.
A buyer's market now.
That's why I recommended looking at their definitions of those conditions, they seem to live in this idealistic world where rust doesn't exist and every car runs perfectly fine.
 

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If you can find or restore an Alfetta to being 100% rust free. You have a very rare car and should cherish it, and immerse it in rust proofing stuff. That is what I would do if I bought one of these, or an apparently rust free Sud. Spent a month drilling little holes and filling up cavities with rust proofing.

Pete
 

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I’m not so sure Hagerty’s values or definitions are inflated so much as an owner’s opinion of their car is inflated.

Hagerty might reasonably assume a buyer is going to closely inspect a car they intend to buy. Many do not, or are blinded by their desire.
 
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