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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well, since I took delivery of my new to me Super, I thought it was time for the formal introduction. I sourced the car with the help of a member here in the Netherlands. It is a (believed) Blu Olandese AR-343 Super 1300. I have not really driven it, I mean it arrived this morning, but mostly because the cooling system needs some sorting.

The story on it goes like this. It is a lifelong Catania Sicily car. It was owned by a business owner who also owned a body shop where it was refurbished. When he passed his estate sold his Ferrari collection and this Alfa as a package deal to a dealer in Germany. This is where I purchased it. It spent time in the Netherlands getting a couple things done and paperwork sorted. Then the long ride over on the ship, and it landed in Port Hueneme where it sat for a bit. I was able to avoid storage fees there through a stroke of luck and a friend "rescued" her from the port. I then had a heck of a time getting it from his house to Utah, but it got here.

Tomorrow I, without the Super, will be going to an Italian Festival where there are supposed to be Italian cars and motorbikes. I will likely spend the evening trying to sort out the cooling issue so I can drive her to a Cars and Coffee near me Sunday.

From the little I have driven her, I think we are going to have a long relationship. And so, without further ado, here are some pics. Most are from Europe but I will add my own as I get the opportunity on this thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
In California getting loaded on the transport. Utah getting loaded on the tow truck after discovering the cooling issue.

Dang iPhone...any idea how to rotate the pics?
 

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Glad you finally got it. What seems to be the cooling issue? Did Roderick experience it?..or is it just the gauge that is balky? The Italian cars I have run across usually don't have anti-freeze in them.. for some money saving ,,I suppose.. or the rationalization it never gets cold enough to require it. If it is overheating, the first thing i would look at is a stuck thermostat... Not unusual if the car has no anti-freeze as water only will contribute to the problem. It is a screw-in type that can be particularly vexing if corrosion has taken a grip and no anti-seize is used to screw it into the manifold. A propane torch might help..The alloy manifold can be brittle at the thermostat so be careful especially if corrosion is present between dis-similar metals.

I've had MANY 4 cylinder Alfas pass through my hands after years of ownership.. including Giulia Spiders, both N and V, Duetto, SZ, Giulietta Veloce, 2.0 Spica, GT Junior, among them including a Fulvia 1.3 .. The car you own is the last one standing and is the most cherished for the drive..
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks.

My sourcer in EU replaced the plenum (correct term?) for me because the thermostat housing was badly corroded - I do not know if he sourced me a new thermostat or used the old one, but to me it looks new. I attached associated pic of plenum. From the pic of the plenum, I would think the old thermostat was not in reusable condition. So he has been in there doing work and I have an email sent to him asking for whatever info he can provide. It is possible the system didn't get burped. The metal spout on the radiator that the overflow hose fits to is cracked as well. So I will have to braze that or something. I may just pull the radiator and have it gone through. Unfortunately when I went to remove the bleed screw on top of the water pump it broke, someone had RTV'd the screw cap on, instead of replacing. So I have that to look forward to as well.

Of further concern, there is oil in the coolant. I understand this to be "common" as an indicator that o-rings will need to be replaced eventually. However, it does seem a little excessive? I think the car sat for a while, since it was in a collection, and as you know cars like to be used.

Anyway, I will try to do a shade tree mechanic flush of the radiator this afternoon and take a look at the thermostat to see if it is serviceable and clean. If that seems to work I can then pull the radiator to get it professionally fixed and the spout brazed.

This is what I am dealing with right now...

First pic is the plenum if that is the correct term, and it was replaced with a good one.
Second and third are the color of the coolant now without running the car, or a bolt on the bottom of the radiator. I have a question about the bolt. Is that a drain for the radiator?
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Color and bolt. So, any advice? I guess there is no harm in flushing the system and seeing what happens? Oil levels in the car seem ok, although due for a change.
 

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The "green" is fresh. It didn't contribute to the corrosion on the intake manifold. That was years of straight mineralized water from the tap in Sicily.. just as my previous post mentioned. I have experienced this from one import .. but not as bad. The solution is up in the air for the experts... I would drain the system amd give it a solution of bi-carbanate of soda or some suc solution to break loose ll the crud.. I don't know how to keep it from going into the radiator.. never been there this bad. Unlesss the schitt is cfeeed up from the block entirely the radiaor will continue to just bog up too IMHO. I'd bow to the folks who have had corrosion issues.. With all this crap your radiator is plugged for sure but that doesn't solve any problems unless you flush out all the crap in the system.

There is a brass spigot behind the #4 exhaust port manifold.. I would also pull that without using the lever.....leave it bet and put a temporary "(cork" in it to drain off interior engine crud...from around the cylinder liners. I would not be surprised if that drain is plugged.... there is the issue of oil in coolant or vice versa... That might be a bad surprise if the head surface has serous corrosion...These are not acceptable conditions no matter what anyone tells you. PERIOD


All can be fixed ... but I don't think this is something you bargained for.

Let me put it this way...I have to guess the corroded intake manifold was found for a reason.. Connect the dots
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
The "green" is fresh. It didn't contribute to the corrosion on the intake manifold.

Let me put it this way...I have to guess the corroded intake manifold was found for a reason.. Connect the dots
Yeah the fresh anti-freeze was what I put in after towing it as close to home as we could get it safely so it had fluid and I could drive it the last 400 yards...I live in a mountain community and people treat the 25mph zone like a highway.

I spent the evening flushing the system. Every time the water starts to get hot, above 80 C, it is pushed out at high volume. I was doing this with the cap off. To position the car for this exercise I did drive it to turn it around in the drive, not enough to get it warm, and the cap was pressurized, in other words it went phht when I opened it. I think something might be clogged? Well, back at it tomorrow if I have the time.

And no, this is not what I bargained for, but when buying from overseas...we have all seen the warning more than once. Its the same in the Land Rover world.
 

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Good to take that approach... I'd like to hear everyone else's input on what to do on the flush. I have to think there is a bright side to this but the oil/ coolant mix bothers the hell out of me. There is a lot of crap in the coolant that needs to go away . Milk in the coolant isn't something that is "normal" in Alfa Romeo's. There is something else going on here that needs a correction. The "flakes" in the green coolant are the tip of the iceberg.
 

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Lovely looking car, but looks to me like you have an engine out rebuild on your hands ... just hope the head or block is not internally corroded like the manifold was, but fortunately they are not rare, so just add $'s.

Pete
 

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Lovely looking car, but looks to me like you have an engine out rebuild on your hands ... just hope the head or block is not internally corroded like the manifold was, but fortunately they are not rare, so just add $'s.

Pete
That's pretty dire... we are looking for diagnoses and solutions to avoid the $$$$
 

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That's pretty dire... we are looking for diagnoses and solutions to avoid the $$$$
Well if after the flushing the water turns into a milk shake again, unfortunately she surely has to be opened to see what is happening inside ... but if she stops making milk shakes and temperature is good, the owner has been lucky and that would be great :)

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Lovely looking car, but looks to me like you have an engine out rebuild on your hands ... just hope the head or block is not internally corroded like the manifold was, but fortunately they are not rare, so just add $'s.

Pete
And so it can be...pretty sure I am hearing some throwout bearing noise too. So what say you, maybe get a hotrod engine and make the ultimate sleeper?

But this is from the guy with the modified Defender with an ACR 4.8L 300HP motor.

Thanks Richard, I would prefer to not spend $$$$...$, right now.
 

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The oil in the coolant is from perished o-rings in the head gasket. A new gasket/o-rings and some oil restricters will fix that.
The corrosion in the intake manifold is the result of no anti-freeze, quite common in warmer countries.
 

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You can just run corrosion inhibitor ... if you don't need anti-freeze.
Pete
 

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Along with inhibiting corrosion, anti-freeze also raises the boiling point of the coolant-something to consider in warmer areas.
 

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I did drive it to turn it around in the drive, not enough to get it warm, and the cap was pressurized, in other words it went phht when I opened it. I think something might be clogged? Well, back at it tomorrow if I have the time. :| :|
Hi what you say here is not a good sign if you didn't get it warm and only turned the car around the radiator should not go phttt. The phhhht is pressure from the engine cylinders getting into the cooling system somewhere.I think you are going to have to have a look means head off at minimum. From the pictures the rest of the car looks great love the colour. On the up side it is a lot easier to fix the engine than rust and paint.:smile2: Regards John.
 
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