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Hi folks,

I will shortly be taking delivery of a 1970 spider that my Mother in Law drove in the 80's before parking it in her garage around 1990. I have been told by someone that there was no Spiders imported to the US in 1970, can anyone confirm this?

I believe it was in excellent running condition when parked but has been sitting with all her fluids since that time.

Really what I would like is some advice on where to start with getting this car back on the road.

Despite having owned a variety of Alfas over the years (all but one when I was still living in Scotland) my mechanical ability is somewhat limited and nearly all of the tools I accumulated during those years are now collecting dust in the ex wifes garage so advice, if forthcoming, will be best in real laymans terms. Having said that I would love to do as much of this myself as I can.

I havent even seen the car yet so will add to this when I do and hopefully include some pictures but if someone would like to start advising, then tha would be great.

Thanks in advance guys
 

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Basic hand tools are cheap. However, the experience of throwing them across the garage, whilst screaming new and previously unheard strings of profanity, is simply priceless in my opinion. I can't help you on the 1970 model year though.
 

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Basic hand tools are cheap. However, the experience of throwing them across the garage, whilst screaming new and previously unheard strings of profanity, is simply priceless in my opinion. I can't help you on the 1970 model year though.
Being from Glasgow originally, most strings of profanity have been heard by these ears :) Although to be fair I think I created some new ones myself when trying to fix an electrical problem with the lime green Sud pictured in my profile! That really was an awful paint job but I had always wanted a 1.5 ti.

If I come up with new profanities I will let you know!
 

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Change all fluids. I will suggest bleeding the brakes, but I can guarantee, if it's been sitting 20 years and not moved, you'll likely be up for all new slave cylinder kits and caliper kits, the rubber most definitely will have stuck. This goes for the clutch as well.
The clutch plate will probably be stuck to the flywheel, if so, this will be a topic in itself!
The rotors and drums will also be very rusty. I think brakes will be your biggest expense, it may pay to send them all out for reconditioning, or replace rotors/drums depending on how badly rusted they are.
I'd also replace the tyres and battery, drain all the fuel from the car and pump some fresh fuel into the system, as well as replace the fuel filter.
Disconnect coil and crank engine on stater for a while, at least until you see fresh oil in the head or the pressure gauge moves. Only then should you reconnect coil and try to fire it up.
 

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Change all fluids. I will suggest bleeding the brakes, but I can guarantee, if it's been sitting 20 years and not moved, you'll likely be up for all new slave cylinder kits and caliper kits, the rubber most definitely will have stuck. This goes for the clutch as well.
The clutch plate will probably be stuck to the flywheel, if so, this will be a topic in itself!
The rotors and drums will also be very rusty. I think brakes will be your biggest expense, it may pay to send them all out for reconditioning, or replace rotors/drums depending on how badly rusted they are.
I'd also replace the tyres and battery, drain all the fuel from the car and pump some fresh fuel into the system, as well as replace the fuel filter.
Disconnect coil and crank engine on stater for a while, at least until you see fresh oil in the head or the pressure gauge moves. Only then should you reconnect coil and try to fire it up.
Thanks mate. To be honest I thought fuel system wise I might be looking at a whole SPICA rebuild and based on that was seriously considering looking at a Weber conversion but it really is all speculation at the moment until I get the car.

I hope you have managed to stay clear of the flooding affecting your neighbours to the North!

Cheers
 

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hey piston.. at least you can find your 'sud' in a parking lot:):) kinda bright:)
 

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I have been told by someone that there was no Spiders imported to the US in 1970, can anyone confirm this?
Alfa DID import all three 1750 models into the US in 1970 BUT these were 1969 model year vehicles.

There were no 1968 nor 1970 model year Alfas imported into the US.

Can you post the chassis number?
 

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I can tell you from experience, the Spica unit is not usually the reason these cars were parked. Make sure your tank is clean, replace and flush the fuel lines, new fuel filters, etc.
The fuel system and ignition-points, plugs, coil, wires- come first so the engine runs. Getting it to move and stop are secondary.
Clean every electrical connection, fuses, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Alfa DID import all three 1750 models into the US in 1970 BUT these were 1969 model year vehicles.

There were no 1968 nor 1970 model year Alfas imported into the US.

Can you post the chassis number?
I will post the chassis number as soon as I have it. Currently trying to free some space in the garage so she will fit in there!

But I thought all the 1969 model year vehicles were round tails?

Anyway she may be wrong it may very well be a '71, and as I said I havent even seen the car! Still hold out a vague hope its a Duetto :)
 

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hey piston.. at least you can find your 'sud' in a parking lot:):) kinda bright:)
I bought the car in around 2005. Believe me a 25 yr old Alfa that I understand was built in the open air with very little in the way of rust proofing was quite a novelty in Scotland even without the awful paint job! I sometimes wished I had painted it grey to match the road ;)

Not that I painted it the green colour!!!
 

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I had a 70 cam tail spider but it was originally sold in Canada then imported into the US. It was a Euro spec car with solex carburettors. Yours is not one of these if it has SPICA. A 1750 cam tail with SPICA sounds like a '71 - a good year.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I had a 70 cam tail spider but it was originally sold in Canada then imported into the US. It was a Euro spec car with solex carburettors. Yours is not one of these if it has SPICA. A 1750 cam tail with SPICA sounds like a '71 - a good year.
Its all heresay at the moment. I just assumed it had a SPICA. In many ways I Hope its carbed. That way I can work on it myself.One of my first ever Alfas was a 33 Cloverleaf Sportwagon and I bought a refurb kit for the Webers for about £15, soaked the carbs in diesel to clean of the grime and rebuilt them myself. In hindsight it may have been a bit ambitious having never done any mechanics before, but hey it worked!
 

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Go steal your tools back.
Ex-wives can castrate... but they shouldn't be able to keep your manhood.
 

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Go steal your tools back.
Ex-wives can castrate... but they shouldn't be able to keep your manhood.
Hmmmmmmm. 6000 miles. To be honest the ex wife wasnt as much a deterrent as the excess baggage fees for those tools!

To be fair I think the ex wife still thinks she has my balls in a velvet lined box. But hey thats another story :)
 

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It is interesting to be discussing car repairs and Scotland. MANY years ago my wife's Citroen 2CV broke down near Glasgow on a Saturday morning. We were on vacation (holidays). I think that it was ignition. It was harder to find a metric box spanner to remove the cooling fan than it was to find the parts.
 

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My 71 sat for 18 years in a garage. you can see pics on my profile page. The brakes will be a problem but the caliper rebuild kits are easy to find. Autozone or Advance will have those. I replaced the clutch master and slave and the brake master and all the rubber parts of both the fuel and brake lines. The gas tank is most likely rusty. You can reline it yourself and save a few peso. JC Whitney or any good motorcycle shop will sell a kit. My Spica was fine but I did change the oil in it before turning it over. Need a new fuel pump though. There is lots of good threads on how to do that on this BB. It require plugging the return hole an drilling a new hole. You will find it. Best advice-- plan on spending twice as much as you think and taking 3 times as long. In the end you will love it! I poured oil into each cylinder thruthe plug holes and let her sit for a week before turning her over by hand. I expected the oil to drain past the rings but it did not. Alas when I truned it over by hand it forced the oil into the exhaust and down into the mufler. When she finally started I choked out evry mosquito in San Antonio! A little oil goes a long way. Gee to you think I may have over done it? DUH. I actually had to drill holes in the muffler to grain the oil. She need a new exhaust anyway but the EPA is still looking for the guy the caused that large gray cloud. In the end she had perfect compression ( you should check your) and runs like a striped *** ape. The 1750 is a great engine.
 

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If it is Spica, the entire fuel system will have to be cleaned. That means filters, metal lines, rubber lines, and removing the fuel tank and having a radiator shop clean/inspect it.

For the injection pump:
1. Remove the injectors and soak them in a jar of gasoline for a week.
2. Remove the injector lines and make sure they're clean.
3. Change the captured oil in the logic section of the injection pump.
4. Sniff for stale gasoline in the old oil. If so, then the pump is probably bad.
5. When all back together, run clean fresh gasoline through the injection pump and into a waste gas can to clean out varnish and gunk from the pump section of the injection pump.
6. Main supply pump will most likely be ruined, so plan on getting a new one.

It it is indeed Spica, I can email you some Spica tech material to help.

Good luck.
 

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I can tell you from experience, the Spica unit is not usually the reason these cars were parked. Make sure your tank is clean, replace and flush the fuel lines, new fuel filters, etc.
The fuel system and ignition-points, plugs, coil, wires- come first so the engine runs. Getting it to move and stop are secondary.
Clean every electrical connection, fuses, etc.
Jeff is absolutely right. Concentrate on everything required to get the engine operational to an acceptable level first. There's not much point in having perfect brakes and a nonworking engine. I would change as much of the engine seals as possible and change all the rubber tubes and hoses. Although they may look undamaged on the inside, they could be rotted on the inside. Some of those could very well be over 40 years old.
Keep us tuned on how you're coming along and send some pics of the car and the mother-in-law. Good luck.
Cheers, James
 

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I agre with Roadtrip. It has been alnmost 3 years for me but I do recall cleaning all the injectors and actually ran solvent through all the metal fuel lines. Replaced all the rubber and the pump. I have had OEM pumps that appeared to be DOA that were just stuck from sitting so long. I popped them open cleaned the pump gears and reassembled them and they worked. I also removed the radiator and had it cleaned professionally. While it is out you may want to change the water pump. It is a PITA to do it but I didn't want a 40 year old water pump. Exactly what do I need to do to find a MIL with a 40nyear old Alfa?
 

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I bought a long sitting non-running car with frozen brakes, so I know kinda where you're going with this. I got it running- everyone has given good advice so far, so no need to re-hash it. Once it's running, then get the brakes done; your calipers WILL be frozen, so you're looking at rebuilding them (I had Goldline do mine). Replace the brake lines and pump a LOT of fluid through them to clean it all out. I didn't need to rebuild my master, so I'll assume you don't either ;-).
You'll probably need to do a clutch slave and hose: that's easy.
Once it runs, stops, and moves you can start having fun. I did all that before I started restoring it...
I can't wait to see pictures. . . .
good luck.
 
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