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Discussion Starter #1
I'll explain later.. I need to know the failure modes of the clutch on the Series 2 1969 GT Jr. with floor mounted pedals.. I don't have a parts manual nor the car nor the owners manual and it's coming off the boat as I speak with a clutch 'problem"..Is there a cable? i have one.. lost fluid.. i have it.. I can't picture the mechanicals for this model in the clutch dept for this particular model. Your help will be appreciated even if it to describe the system. I was going to drive it home from NY to Cape Cod if it is something I can prepare for and fix on my back.
 

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The 1969 US models had a hydraulic clutch. I assume the 1969 European models are similar. Stepping on the standing pedal rotates a shaft that extends outward through a hole in the frame rail, which pushes a rod backward to actuate a clutch master mounted on the outside of the rail. The two pictures attached below may help explain this. Downstream from there, it's a pretty standard Alfa hydraulic clutch.

So if someone is reporting a clutch failure, it is probably due to a loss of hydraulic fluid. Topping up the reservoir and bleeding the system will probably restore it long enough to get from NY to Cape Cod.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Jay..I only have one picture of the engine bay and couldn't see the brake or clutch reservoirs so I wasn't sure what was going on mechanically. i have a "69 manual parts manual for a 1300 Ti that shows a cable after the clutch cylinder but don't know if this is what I have. Hope this doesn"t turn into a cluster phuuuk. The freight forwarder called me at their closing time Wed to tell me this news as it was coming out of the container. Now I have half of my garage loaded and ready to go. The next seven hours are shrouded in the gut churning question of what I'm going to find..
 

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There are a lot more serious problems you can find than a stuck/inop. clutch.......
Sure:

The salt air of the boat cruise could have rusted & stuck the disk to the flywheel or PP.

The flex hose could have swollen closed, or begun leaking.

The linkage could have broken or fallen apart.

The pressure plate could have broken or fallen apart.

But, my guess is that if the clutch was working when the car was loaded onboard several days ago, fluid loss was the most likely cause.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
FWIW the car was driven from Padua Italy to NL , 600 miles with no hint of this, two months ago , loaded on a land carrier to port then arrived like this. Home now aboard a trailer. This too will pass. It was in a container. Pedal needs a big force to bottom with hard push by hand with no play.... like binding in the pivot pin.
 

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Pedal needs a big force to bottom with hard push by hand with no play.... like binding in the pivot pin.
Well, that doesn't sound like a loss of hydraulic fluid (which would result in no pedal resistance).

But does the clutch release after applying that big force? Does it engage with the pedal at the top?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I hate to leave things up in the air so now that I have the car, I can share what I have learned . The car has a split brake reservoir with one side feeding the clutch master under the drivers seat then to a slave on the bell housing. The pedal is absolutety stuck as if someone wedged a tire section between it and the pedal box walls. There is a metal shroud I have to remove protecting the master, then I can disconnect the pedal link there and see if the binding is in the pedal box or the master. Apparently this system was carried over to the early 1750's with floor pedals per the Autobooks p. 62. That's why I was in the dark before I got the car off the trailer and had a look. It's a CF of a system that the straight mechanical linkage would have been fine with. I never heard of a master cylinder failing in brakes or clutches that would bind up like this. I hope it's that and not the pedal link in the box. I'm nursing a knee replaced wife so maybe tomorrow I can get into it. Thanks for the support.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I disconnected the clevis pin at the pedal box and after futzing with that for 4 hours it finally came out. it was slightly mushroomed inside from wear grooves that was causing it to hang up... drove me batty before i lucked out and got the pedal in exactly the right location almost full up before it fell out.

So we have the culprit and it is the shaft in the pedal box that is semi-frozen up. Anybody got any words of wisdom? Can I get it to work without pulling the box? if i have to pull the box, wisdome welcomed there too. BTW this is the same box pictured in post #2 by Jay.
 

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I'll take the heat and be the bearer of bad news. The shaft pulls out of the box after you remove the pedal pin, problem is pulling out the long shaft in situ, and it will be difficult to pull without a puller. Once the shaft is out you can remove the corrosion on a wire wheel, clean the assembly's inner bearing surface and then thoroughly grease the shaft before re-installing, should give at least twenty years if it isn't regularly driven in the rain. There maybe some type of water excluder at the external pivot point between the arm and the assembly on the shaft.
 

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Can I get it to work without pulling the box? if i have to pull the box, wisdom welcomed there too.
Ugh, sounds like a tough one. Actually, it would be nice if you could pull the entire pedal box - then at least you could attack it on the workbench. But I don't think the pedal box can be removed with that shaft & lever still in place; the lever is too large to go through the hole in the frame rail (as best I recall).

So as rogerspeed said, I think you need to remove the pin that couples the pedal to the shaft, disconnect the clutch master push rod from the lever, and try to remove the shaft + lever. And that isn't going to be easy.
 
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